1991 964 C2 3.6 rebuild top and bottom
08-17-2013, 10:41 PM
#17
Pro
Thread Starter
you mean the meathead in the red 964 with no muffler and no cat waking up the neighborhood at 7 in the morning?? not me, i live in Richmond Hill. haha.. and have been out of commish since Jun 22nd. the day the motor was dropped
i do have a 1987 944 turbo though...
i do have a 1987 944 turbo though...
08-17-2013, 11:06 PM
#18
Pro
Thread Starter
installed piston rings into cylinders - no drama except a few times one of the rings was trying to sneak out the side of the ring compressor. used the Lisle compressor with the LIsle spreader - worked pretty well
E marking facing up, or intake side
took a while to get the circlips on.
got pretty good at them and can put em on in the dark .. almost.
if the piston / cylinder is out on the bench i use a large vice grip (duck!) on the snap ring and right hand side groove and a small screw driver (flat head) slip into the left groove and it pops right in
if installing on the motor.. no way i can do it with just one person.
here's the simple steps that took a lot of trial and error
make sure all the the other cylinder and access holes and chain cover (when doing last cylinder) are completely blocked off with lint free wipes and plastic wrap!
1. first practice on the piston cylinder on the bench
2. use a set of needle nose pliers with extended handles so that one person holds (like my 12 yr old) and the other person had room to work and see what he's doing
3. place the circlip snap ring so that the one end (rhs) is a little below the indent
4. grab a hold of the circlip, line up with the groove/indent and hold on tight - with needle nose pliers and keep your 12 yr old on the right of you
5. position something stiff like the handle of the screwdriver (preferably non metallic as we don't want to damage the crankcase) and use a large flat screwdriver to lever into the circlip hole. to do this you line up the other end (closer to the left hand side) at about 6 oclock.
6. twist the large flat screwdriver while holding the circlip with your left thumb keep pressure against the piston pin
7. the circlip snap ring ends should both be in the groove now but other end may be sticking out slightly
8. line up the long flat screwdriver from left into the left groove and come in at 45 deg angle touching the snap ring
9. use the palm of your hand to pop the end of the flat head and this will sharply pop the snap ring - may take 2 or more whacks and snap! it's in
E marking facing up, or intake side
took a while to get the circlips on.
got pretty good at them and can put em on in the dark .. almost.
if the piston / cylinder is out on the bench i use a large vice grip (duck!) on the snap ring and right hand side groove and a small screw driver (flat head) slip into the left groove and it pops right in
if installing on the motor.. no way i can do it with just one person.
here's the simple steps that took a lot of trial and error
make sure all the the other cylinder and access holes and chain cover (when doing last cylinder) are completely blocked off with lint free wipes and plastic wrap!
1. first practice on the piston cylinder on the bench
2. use a set of needle nose pliers with extended handles so that one person holds (like my 12 yr old) and the other person had room to work and see what he's doing
3. place the circlip snap ring so that the one end (rhs) is a little below the indent
4. grab a hold of the circlip, line up with the groove/indent and hold on tight - with needle nose pliers and keep your 12 yr old on the right of you
5. position something stiff like the handle of the screwdriver (preferably non metallic as we don't want to damage the crankcase) and use a large flat screwdriver to lever into the circlip hole. to do this you line up the other end (closer to the left hand side) at about 6 oclock.
6. twist the large flat screwdriver while holding the circlip with your left thumb keep pressure against the piston pin
7. the circlip snap ring ends should both be in the groove now but other end may be sticking out slightly
8. line up the long flat screwdriver from left into the left groove and come in at 45 deg angle touching the snap ring
9. use the palm of your hand to pop the end of the flat head and this will sharply pop the snap ring - may take 2 or more whacks and snap! it's in
08-17-2013, 11:32 PM
#20
Burning Brakes
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Raleigh, NC
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i enjoyed the drives in the 964 w/o mufflers .. but still had the cat on. it sounded great. i felt like i was in a mad max movie.
08-18-2013, 04:01 PM
#21
Pro
Thread Starter
talk about mad max... the 944 turbo has no muffler or cat and uses the the turbo as the muffler. it barks, grunts, pops on decel and howls on accel but has very light drone when cruising... still too loud for me. muffler going back on...
08-21-2013, 03:29 PM
#25
Pro
Thread Starter
anyway, update:
spent a few hours last night preparing ie: looking for nuts and bolts for the head and cam housing holder install.
prepared:
o rings - green ones 8 pcs for the 4 oil tubes
nuts - 15 plus 3 barrel nuts plus matching washers
head stud nuts - 12 point or triple square 10mm 24 pcs
figured out which cam holder is left and right -even though they have the same part number. lucky i put a zip tie on the lhs side cam holder and lhs cam -
cleaned and cleaned some more.
by mistake, torqued up the head stud nuts first then loaded up the three bond 1104 on the under side of cam holder - tried to install and got stuck... lucky i have that rubber mallet.... anyway got the cam holder on after a few light taps.... torqued up twice. once to just snug by hand then turned the motor upside down and followed Dempsey's torque sequence in the book.
then loosened the head studs and re torqued using the same two stage... ooops. worst part was i was second guessing the correct part in the correct position and took a little long.... three bond 1104 sets in 20 mins.
other side... done pretty easily. made sure to cover up the holes in the oil tubes before installing washers and nuts on the cam holder.
spent a few hours last night preparing ie: looking for nuts and bolts for the head and cam housing holder install.
prepared:
o rings - green ones 8 pcs for the 4 oil tubes
nuts - 15 plus 3 barrel nuts plus matching washers
head stud nuts - 12 point or triple square 10mm 24 pcs
figured out which cam holder is left and right -even though they have the same part number. lucky i put a zip tie on the lhs side cam holder and lhs cam -
cleaned and cleaned some more.
by mistake, torqued up the head stud nuts first then loaded up the three bond 1104 on the under side of cam holder - tried to install and got stuck... lucky i have that rubber mallet.... anyway got the cam holder on after a few light taps.... torqued up twice. once to just snug by hand then turned the motor upside down and followed Dempsey's torque sequence in the book.
then loosened the head studs and re torqued using the same two stage... ooops. worst part was i was second guessing the correct part in the correct position and took a little long.... three bond 1104 sets in 20 mins.
other side... done pretty easily. made sure to cover up the holes in the oil tubes before installing washers and nuts on the cam holder.
08-21-2013, 05:23 PM
#27
Race Car
http://www.dropbox.com/s/nyvv2cazcsm...2021.16.21.jpg
Well link better than zip eh ... Never got it working w dB either so it's not just you!
Looks good, sounds fun, enjoy
Well link better than zip eh ... Never got it working w dB either so it's not just you!
Looks good, sounds fun, enjoy
08-28-2013, 03:23 PM
#29
Pro
Thread Starter
update.. i think i totally f'd up and may have to do complete disassembly and reassemble....
i somehow got the number 8 bearing to stick out an extra inch and half... ooops..
which i though would be impossible because there is a small hole and pin that matches everything up....
crap!!!!!!!!!!!
15 hrs to disassemble
10 hrs to clean up all the fresh gooo (loctite 574)
25 hours to reassemble... though second time should be a little quicker now that i've done it once....
i somehow got the number 8 bearing to stick out an extra inch and half... ooops..
which i though would be impossible because there is a small hole and pin that matches everything up....
crap!!!!!!!!!!!
15 hrs to disassemble
10 hrs to clean up all the fresh gooo (loctite 574)
25 hours to reassemble... though second time should be a little quicker now that i've done it once....
08-28-2013, 04:43 PM
#30
Burning Brakes
Join Date: Aug 2012
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all good practice makes perfect. i am very OCD and reinstalled my front bumper on my Audi RS4 about 50 times before I got the fitment good enough for me.
i am in no rush with my engine work...at this point just took off the intake and removed spark plugs. Can not wait to detach the transmission from the engine.
i am in no rush with my engine work...at this point just took off the intake and removed spark plugs. Can not wait to detach the transmission from the engine.