Any here with good experience with the FVD MAF conversion kit?
#1
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Any here with good experience with the FVD MAF conversion kit?
Three months and three different chips later my car is still not running right.
The car is a '92 Convertible Tip.
I had the kit installed in January and the car idled rough and was hunting badly.
The power was slightly better.
They changed the chip and the throttle response was now much better. Felt amazing, but idle was even worse.
Third chip. Idle is now under control, but once the accelerator is JUST of idle the revs shoot straight up to 3000 RMP. Not easy to drive in the city. The power has now disappeared altogether. Nothing much happens when you floor the accelerator. If I feather the accelerator it pulls hard when i release a bit.
I need some advice from you guys.
Should I give up on this? Is this all down to programming?
This is my daily driver so having troubles for three months is a long time.
Any advice would be much appreciated.
The car is a '92 Convertible Tip.
I had the kit installed in January and the car idled rough and was hunting badly.
The power was slightly better.
They changed the chip and the throttle response was now much better. Felt amazing, but idle was even worse.
Third chip. Idle is now under control, but once the accelerator is JUST of idle the revs shoot straight up to 3000 RMP. Not easy to drive in the city. The power has now disappeared altogether. Nothing much happens when you floor the accelerator. If I feather the accelerator it pulls hard when i release a bit.
I need some advice from you guys.
Should I give up on this? Is this all down to programming?
This is my daily driver so having troubles for three months is a long time.
Any advice would be much appreciated.
#2
Torben, my FVD kit has performed faultlessly for the past few years 25k km. Very smooth and progressive from almost no throttle at all to full throttle.
Idle hasn't been great, although many RS' suffer from this due to the light weight flywheel. As a cure I've modified the idle control valve to have a larger air path at rest, cold start now requires some throttle to keep the car running....after 30 secs warm up idle is rock steady at about 980 rpm.
Idle hasn't been great, although many RS' suffer from this due to the light weight flywheel. As a cure I've modified the idle control valve to have a larger air path at rest, cold start now requires some throttle to keep the car running....after 30 secs warm up idle is rock steady at about 980 rpm.
#4
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Torben, my FVD kit has performed faultlessly for the past few years 25k km. Very smooth and progressive from almost no throttle at all to full throttle.
Idle hasn't been great, although many RS' suffer from this due to the light weight flywheel. As a cure I've modified the idle control valve to have a larger air path at rest, cold start now requires some throttle to keep the car running....after 30 secs warm up idle is rock steady at about 980 rpm.
Idle hasn't been great, although many RS' suffer from this due to the light weight flywheel. As a cure I've modified the idle control valve to have a larger air path at rest, cold start now requires some throttle to keep the car running....after 30 secs warm up idle is rock steady at about 980 rpm.
I have been in touch with Steve as my previous setup ran so well with his chip. He may or may not be able to help as he has little to start with and i am 12000 miles away. So first I need to decide if to give up and take the MAF off again or throw more money at it. The complete LB2 kit is 4K USD here so not cheap. I my opinion it should work at that price.
A question:
Is it really just down to mapping when the lightest off touches on the accelerator revs the car to 3000 RPM or is there something mechanical wrong? I would think the butterfly is barely open and can not deliver enough air to allow that high RPM.
#5
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I installed my kit a couple of days ago and didn´t have any problems on the first testdrives.
I had some small idle problems before and they dissapeared after the install. Could the problem be the maf itself or the tempsensor?
I had some small idle problems before and they dissapeared after the install. Could the problem be the maf itself or the tempsensor?
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I got both the MAF and the larger throttle body installed.
How can I check if there are faults in the components?
The problem I have is that FVD does not seem to want to help with this. They supplied three different chips with the kit and thats it.
I have sent them videos and pictures and I am not getting any response.
There is no documentation with the Kit and the chip has an encryption socket so its really hard to find the problem.
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#9
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A rolling road remap is best but the FVD chip should work. A rolling road remap should show if something is wrong with the chip/motronic. If it would resolve the issue then FVD should cover the cost.
#10
Torben, I think it's a bad thing you're feeling left out by FVD....
....I do feel however they went to quite some length supplying different chips to try and cure your problems from a distance (which is always difficult).
As others have asked, are you communicating with the source (FVD Germany, who developed the kit and have 100's of these running successfully in Europe) or their US 'sales agents'? In case you want some help with contacting FVD Germany to discuss and hopefully resolve your issues please let me know I'd be glad to help....
.....as said FVD have 100's of kits running without problem in Europe, so from a design standpoint it is a good kit. This leads to two possible causes of your running issues:
A) Your kit has a faulty component, such as faulty MAF signal.
B) An external factor causes the poor running, such as vacuum leaks, stuck open injectors etc. etc.
To rule out 'B' I would suggest switching back to your old AFM & SW chip to see whether everything functions as you were used to. If this is indeed the case you know for a fact thjat the problem lies somewhere within the FVD kit, and you can send it back to them to trace and solve the problem.
On the other hand, should your car still perform eradically it then means the problem lies somewhere else. A Porsche-Hammer diagnostic session would be my first resort, if this doesn't bring any insight a structured process of checking/ruling out possible causes is what is required. Experience is King here.
Good luck!
....I do feel however they went to quite some length supplying different chips to try and cure your problems from a distance (which is always difficult).
As others have asked, are you communicating with the source (FVD Germany, who developed the kit and have 100's of these running successfully in Europe) or their US 'sales agents'? In case you want some help with contacting FVD Germany to discuss and hopefully resolve your issues please let me know I'd be glad to help....
.....as said FVD have 100's of kits running without problem in Europe, so from a design standpoint it is a good kit. This leads to two possible causes of your running issues:
A) Your kit has a faulty component, such as faulty MAF signal.
B) An external factor causes the poor running, such as vacuum leaks, stuck open injectors etc. etc.
To rule out 'B' I would suggest switching back to your old AFM & SW chip to see whether everything functions as you were used to. If this is indeed the case you know for a fact thjat the problem lies somewhere within the FVD kit, and you can send it back to them to trace and solve the problem.
On the other hand, should your car still perform eradically it then means the problem lies somewhere else. A Porsche-Hammer diagnostic session would be my first resort, if this doesn't bring any insight a structured process of checking/ruling out possible causes is what is required. Experience is King here.
Good luck!
#11
Maybe try putting it all back to stock and see if the car runs properly.
If it does then you know 100% you've got a problem with your kit or the mapping. If it doesn't then something else has been disturbed and should make it easier to trace.
As Frank has pointed out, I would also always recommend getting the car on the rollers to get a better idea of what's going on and check it's not running too rich or lean.
Good luck with it.
If it does then you know 100% you've got a problem with your kit or the mapping. If it doesn't then something else has been disturbed and should make it easier to trace.
As Frank has pointed out, I would also always recommend getting the car on the rollers to get a better idea of what's going on and check it's not running too rich or lean.
Good luck with it.
#12
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Thank you very much for the help. It is much appreciated.
I was told that a TIP can not be put on a rolling road for remapping. If its possible i will certainly do that.
I am dealing with FVD Germany and I only have the one contact there.
The three chips came with the Kit as far as I know. It was all installed by their reseller here and he advised to remove the kit after the first test run saying that some cars just didn't like the conversion.
I did not want to give up as the throttle response and the power was quite addictive. I hoped that the idle issues could be resolved.
I will return it to stock and I will let you know how that goes.
I was told that a TIP can not be put on a rolling road for remapping. If its possible i will certainly do that.
I am dealing with FVD Germany and I only have the one contact there.
The three chips came with the Kit as far as I know. It was all installed by their reseller here and he advised to remove the kit after the first test run saying that some cars just didn't like the conversion.
I did not want to give up as the throttle response and the power was quite addictive. I hoped that the idle issues could be resolved.
I will return it to stock and I will let you know how that goes.
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I asked him to do a smoke test for leaks. He said he did, but found nothing wrong.
Initially i found 3 leaks but fixing those didn't help.
If somebody can confirm a TIP can be put on a rolling road I will go do that.
I first wanted to put Motec on the car, but was told its impossible on a TIP.
I bought the car here and we really only have TIP's left here. All the manuals have been sold out of the country.
I have thought about converting to manual, but that seems like a huge undertaking.
#15
With all due respect to your installer, but what is his scientific explanation that not all cars run well with this conversion whilst others do??
I feel the above statement is a load of bull. The fact that you have already uncovered 3 leaks in the install also isn't confidence inspiring
The way your engine behaves is dictated by the Motronic computer that is calling the shots. For instance at 2700RPM, at throttle position 2 , at lambda 0.97.....and AFM signal of 1.5V.....the Motronic tells the injectors how much milliseconds to open, and the ignition at which degree before top dead center to fire the sparks. When these 'shots' are right the engine pulls and behaves well, when wrong it behaves 'suboptimal'....
The 'problem' with a MAF conversion is that the signal given by the MAF is not a 1:1 carbon copy of the old AFM metering device. Accordingly, this requires either a different form of enterpretation of the signal received (mapping), or translation/emulation by a separate electronic device to read just like the old AFM used to.
The thing the above either works, or it doesn't. It is completely binary....
Here's a nice article on the subject: http://www.splitsec.com/technotes/AF...Conversion.pdf
I feel the above statement is a load of bull. The fact that you have already uncovered 3 leaks in the install also isn't confidence inspiring
The way your engine behaves is dictated by the Motronic computer that is calling the shots. For instance at 2700RPM, at throttle position 2 , at lambda 0.97.....and AFM signal of 1.5V.....the Motronic tells the injectors how much milliseconds to open, and the ignition at which degree before top dead center to fire the sparks. When these 'shots' are right the engine pulls and behaves well, when wrong it behaves 'suboptimal'....
The 'problem' with a MAF conversion is that the signal given by the MAF is not a 1:1 carbon copy of the old AFM metering device. Accordingly, this requires either a different form of enterpretation of the signal received (mapping), or translation/emulation by a separate electronic device to read just like the old AFM used to.
The thing the above either works, or it doesn't. It is completely binary....
Here's a nice article on the subject: http://www.splitsec.com/technotes/AF...Conversion.pdf