pi5tolpete

Yup. I wrapped the hose first with a single pass of vinyl electrical tape to protect against the screw. It was either the $0.30 in tape, or $4 per clamp. I tried to source the clamps from McMaster-Carr but they gave me grief for trying to import them into Canada (Yeah - like a bunch of hose clamps are going to work as WMDs...). So I bought the SS ones sized right and did the tap trick. I don't intend for the adhesive to hold up, but the tape is good for the temperatures it'll see.
I think I'll have a thermo-to-cooler hose replacement job in the future as the lines appear tired. If I develop a leak at the crimp, a trick is to carefully cut away the outer crimp to expose the hose on the fitting barb, then attach a few right-sized hose clamps to act as the crimp. Gets you going again without removal of the hoses.

STUARTQ

i went through this whole process too.

had a leaking hose and ended up removing the oil tank every oil hose, the hard lines to the front and the oil cooler.
Very satisfying when it all went back in looking as new though.

pi5tolpete

Do you guys recall how much oil the system takes when you drain all oil from the tank and front cooler? I'm at 12 litres/quarts with no real blip on the level sender

STUARTQ

Have you driven the car and checked the oil level, or just had the engine running?
You do need to drive it, otherwise you will not get a proper reading.
Also, the dip stick is the most reliable indicator so trust that more than the gauge.
When my tank etc was refitted, I was told they filled it with 11 litres, however there was no gauge reading and I thought it was faulty. A specialist had a look and suggested I need another 1 or 2 litres of oil, as soon as I added 2 litres the gauge started working.
So, go for a good drive, ensure the engine is properly warmed up from the drive, then check the oil by dipstick, add half a litre at a time if required as per the dipstick. Once you have the correct level, your gauge should start working.
Be very careful not to over fill.

pi5tolpete

I have taken the car for a good enough drive that the oil temp came up, then fell (thermostat opened) then came up and reached a steady state so I'm thinking I'm ok with the oil temperature. I tried disconnecting the level sensor and the level pins out at full high so I seem to have an ok connection. When I turn the ignition on, I get s slight rise in the level on the gauge,but just to bring the needle to the bottom of the red section. I think that I'll rry and other litre of oil. That will make 13 as I think you got to with your fresh rebuild.
With brand new oil, I'm having a tough time pinpointing the oil level on the dipstick. It is so vague that I. Cannot tell if the oil on the dipstick is stuff I picked up merely from reinserting it down the tube. I've tried the white towel trick too and it's no better.

jevvy964

Yes fresh clean oil can be a pain, 964 dipstick is poor in this situation. I'd continue to add oil 1/4 a litre at a time and have a helper keep an eye on the gauge if you can to save too much back and forth, once you reach the right level the gauge will move immediately since you are tipping into the tank and not the engine.

I sympathise with your predicament, its an awful feeling worrying that you are adding too much oil somehow but on a fresh rebuild with clear lines etc these cars have a very bad drinking habit