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yes, some do.

have you tried an adaptation on your car ever? perhaps it could be better?

 

you can find out if your mechanic has another 964 and he could do a quick switch of the DME.

my symptoms were ... starts with a bit of accelerator pedal, but would immediately stall with no throttle. it wasn't really drive-able but i struggled about 10km to get to the mechanic with some left foot braking whilst keeping some constant throttle. he switched over to a different DME and no probs .. hence DME was the issue.

but I guess the symptoms could vary depending on the solder joint problem.

 

I estimate I disconnect my battery about a dozen times a year (usually because I'm doing some work on the car). It starts and idles just fine after re-connecting and runs perfectly. No need for adaption here. Must be a C4 thing because it only seems to be you guys that have problems when the battery is disconnected?

 

yes, i agree most have been C4s but I think there are a few C2 guys that have reported improvements.

anyway .. this guy's problems sound more serious than an adaptation anyway.

 

Troubleshooting 101 right there. Without going back over the thread to double check the thing that popped out was that this change occurred AFTER the new chip was put in but no attempt to revert to the stock chip (which I assume the car was running just fine on) was made.

 

My c2 runs better each time i do a Hammer system adaptation.

 

Can you define better for us?

I'm interested because I have no doubt that sml's car needs adaption after battery disconnect. I remember well the problems he had and none of the suggestions we offered helped him (mine included). He solved it himself with Hammer adaption. It would be worthwhile knowing why some cars need adaption and others don't?

This might sound O/T but it could help others and adaption may even help the OP (although I agree with the others that the new chip needs to come out first to go back to base 1).

 

another update from him today, he confirmed that the ignition system has no problem and no difference after replacing the original chip.

he hasn't got to the bottom yet but he said the dme relay keeps going on and off itself. he can see water marks in the fuse box too...

he mentioned something about it might be corrosion under the fuse box but he needs to confirm that.

my fuse box cover is always there and now I'm worried like how could this happen ..

 

A more stable idle and in my view a smoother power delivery.
I have my own Hammer so do a system adaptation every few months and always once it comes out of hibernation.

 

that was similar to my symptom when i left the old chip adapter on the DME board.

car didn't start or turn over .. just relay clicks from the engine bay somewhere (although not the DME relay in the front of the car like yours, so maybe quite different !?).

 

wow .. that brings back some bad memories .. in hindsight, i cannot believe i spent about 12mths trying other stuff before doing the hammer adaptation.

lesson learnt was to take your time .. evaluate all options .. then prioritise.

i'm a little sensitive to system adaptations after 12 mths of headaches & stress before trying the easiest solution

 

Can you guys entertain an idiot for a second. What is this hammer you speak off?

1. put the stock chip back in.

2. find a buddy with a known good DME and swap it out.

3. make sure your DME relay wasn't made by URO. sorry, had to.

4. check for water in the distributor ....and then check your grounds.

5. trade it in for a real 911.

 

you know what it is ... but it's not the solution for the guy's problem .. but somehow the conversation moved in the direction of the bosch hammer (or equivalent aftermarket).

 

http://www.google.co.uk/#hl=en&safe=...w=1249&bih=595