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h&r antiroll bars, droplinks?

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Old 01-21-2013 | 07:33 AM
  #16  
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Iam thinkin about the uni option.
i used four 12mm unibal joints. two male/two females... round about 5,-€ each...
Old 01-21-2013 | 10:15 AM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by PChar
This swaybar stuff is very confusing to me. Sorry 964russ not trying to derail, still on topic here,...
But looking at the 964 RS the front sway is 24mm and rear at 18mm, which is larger up front and smaller at the rear for a C2.
Now on the 993 the M030 upgrade appears to be on the opposite,..22mm front and 20mm rear.

Can someone explain why and how this should work in plain/simple words. I am not an engineer and this gives me headache,...

Also, whould changing just up front have positive effect or nothing at all? Does one have to change both together to see positive results?

Thanks
The 964RS sway bars are 3 way adjustable so although the rear bar might sound soft being only 18mm it can be made stiffer depending on hole position i.e. it will then act like a thicker bar (to give more oversteer).

The M030 front bar is not adjustable. it' just thicker than a standard C2 bar. To be honest I'm not sure why Porsche decided a thicker front bar is more 'sporty' (M030) because it should theoretically create more understeer than the standard bar. I guess it's related to the way the bar works with the different shocks that also form part of the M030 option?
Old 01-21-2013 | 11:11 AM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by boxsey911
The 964RS sway bars are 3 way adjustable so although the rear bar might sound soft being only 18mm it can be made stiffer depending on hole position i.e. it will then act like a thicker bar (to give more oversteer).
Thanks boxsey, for the explaination I didnt realize the rear was adjustable. So technically speaking on a 964 (C2), if I opt to increase the front to a 24mm and leave the rear one alone I should see some bennefit,... correct?
Thanks
Old 01-21-2013 | 11:29 AM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by PChar
Thanks boxsey, for the explaination I didnt realize the rear was adjustable. So technically speaking on a 964 (C2), if I opt to increase the front to a 24mm and leave the rear one alone I should see some bennefit,... correct?
Thanks
Depends on what you regard as benefit? Putting a bigger bar on the front and leaving everything else the same means you will increase understeer. I would see this as being undesirable.

In case your unsure; stiffening the front increases understeer while stiffening the rear decreases understeer. There's an excellent summary of changes to the suspension components to affect understeer/oversteer here:

http://carrerars.wordpress.com/2010/...ersteer-table/
Old 01-21-2013 | 02:37 PM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by boxsey911
Depends on what you regard as benefit? Putting a bigger bar on the front and leaving everything else the same means you will increase understeer. I would see this as being undesirable.

In case your unsure; stiffening the front increases understeer while stiffening the rear decreases understeer. There's an excellent summary of changes to the suspension components to affect understeer/oversteer here:

http://carrerars.wordpress.com/2010/...ersteer-table/
This makes me even more confused,... The 964 RS has a stiffer front which should increase understeer, and a softer rear which should also accentuate the same problem,... NO ???

I have a set of KWv3, whcih I run almost full hard in the front and at 4 clicks from full hard on the rear, and understeer is not realy a problem. Although most at the track say that I would bennefit from playing with swaybar size. This is what I am trying to dial down and tweak to further increase stability. I feell the rear end a bit loose at time and run 140 UTQG tread wear on 255 rear tires.
Perhaps a stiffer rear would be the solution,...?
Old 01-21-2013 | 05:20 PM
  #21  
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A stiffer front bar can minimize undesirable camber change due to body roll, particularly on an otherwise stock strut type front suspension. The net result may actually be increased front grip because the tire stays flatter to the ground, even though you are having more weight go to the front. A lot of top shelf SCCA Stock Class autocrossers have come to that conclusion.
Old 01-21-2013 | 08:29 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by PChar
This makes me even more confused,... The 964 RS has a stiffer front which should increase understeer, and a softer rear which should also accentuate the same problem,... NO ???

I have a set of KWv3, whcih I run almost full hard in the front and at 4 clicks from full hard on the rear, and understeer is not realy a problem. Although most at the track say that I would bennefit from playing with swaybar size. This is what I am trying to dial down and tweak to further increase stability. I feell the rear end a bit loose at time and run 140 UTQG tread wear on 255 rear tires.
Perhaps a stiffer rear would be the solution,...?
Comparing the RS bars with the C2 is not comparing apples with apples because of the other suspension differences.

From what you write above, I believe you are saying that you feel the rear is a little loose and you would like the car to feel more stable. In which case, yes a thicker front bar would help with that (a stiffer rear bar would make the rear even looser). You could also soften the rear KWV3 shocks. Try going from 4 clicks from hard to 6 clicks from hard and see what that does to feel. An easy experiment to do. I've done these changes many times on my own KWV3 when I've wanted to adjust the balance of the car for the track I'm driving.

The basic principles to follow are:

Stiffen the front and/or soften the rear to increase understeer (more stable for fast sweepers).
Soften the front and/or stiffen the rear to decrease understeer (more loose for tighter turns).

The above can be achieved by using sway bar changes and/or damper adjustments.
Old 01-22-2013 | 12:48 AM
  #23  
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Thanks boxsey for the explanation, this was very helpful. I'll try playing and experimenting with the adjustment of the struts first before making costly mistake by installing larger swaybars.
Thanks again.
Old 01-22-2013 | 05:52 PM
  #24  
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How much work is envoled with fittin them?
Phoned u11, dan said 2 hours labour.
Is it worth the mither?
Old 01-22-2013 | 06:52 PM
  #25  
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The mither of me tryin that is.
Old 01-22-2013 | 08:23 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by 964russ
How much work is envoled with fittin them?
Phoned u11, dan said 2 hours labour.
Is it worth the mither?
Rear is an easy change. Front is a PIA because of access and stuff in the way. Much easier to do with a lift. Although it probably won't be affected, he'll check your alignment too. Well worth it at their rates IMO.
Old 01-22-2013 | 08:25 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by boxsey911
Rear is an easy change. Front is a PIA because of access and stuff in the way. Much easier to do with a lift. Although it probably won't be affected, he'll check your alignment too. Well worth it at their rates IMO.
Once again, Boxsey nails it. The front is a beyotch, rear no problem at all.
Old 01-28-2013 | 07:39 AM
  #28  
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My car went for its mot today, passed as per usual.

Tester did mention little play on front wheel, thinks its a droplink.
I told him its having new rollbars fitted so will sort at the same time.

Iam thinkin of gettin the rs drop links.
Will they work with the h&r anti roll bars?

Design 911 will sell me a pair or rennline adjustable droplinks for the same price as oe.
May as well get them?
Old 01-28-2013 | 02:33 PM
  #29  
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After sum research have found sumone who can make them.
Rose jointed adjustable with fittings for less than the price of 1 droplink!
Old 01-28-2013 | 03:54 PM
  #30  
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^^^^^^^^^^
you can buy the bits off ebay from mcgillmotorsports


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