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Old 12-15-2012, 04:47 PM
  #16  
LM964
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If you have a sunroof, check the rear hole bungs/grommets are not missing - water can enter the cabin from there (rear lid close to the hinges).

Also had the same problem on a previous 964 and the root cause turned out to be corrosion/bubbling on both sides of the rear screen bottom corners under the window seal (a common corrosion area). When revealed back to bare metal the window seal barely covered the creeping corrosion allowing rain/hose water to seep into the rear.
Old 12-15-2012, 06:53 PM
  #17  
boxsey911
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Originally Posted by 964russ
964,s arnt water tight.
I solved my problem by building a garage.
Doors and windows are the fav issue.

Steve if you want a hand with the glass, let me know.
Either remove em and seal em up, or fit new seals.

Id try remove and seal first.
Cheers bud. It's under its cover now for the worst of the weather. Will have a look at it in February. I wouldn't be surprised at what I find under the seals after seeing what you found when the front screen came out. It'll all be fixable though. U11 fitted 993 seals and trims to Barry's car, so will probably go that route too.
Old 01-16-2013, 10:02 AM
  #18  
tuddy
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tore out the sound deadening and pulled back the carpet. I have two big leaks.

1 is the side glass, which i will get resealed. and the second is the door outside of the window glass.

im assuming it is this part here, can someone tell me exactly which part is in on a diagram? I looked on pelican and it seems it could be 3 different parts.

Old 01-16-2013, 10:11 AM
  #19  
Rocket Rob
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Before replacing, check that your door drains are clear. The part numbers are

Coupe molding
911-531-041-30 (left side) - metal portion
911-531-042-30 (right side) - metal portion
911-531-931-02 (left side) - rubber portion
911-531-932-02 (right side) - rubber portion
Old 01-16-2013, 10:14 AM
  #20  
alexjc4
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lol I recognize that car!

The seal you can see is this one:
911.531.931.02 window scraper seal £5.40
911.531.932.02 window scraper seal £5.40

There is a ridiculously expensive inner seal that sits an inch or two further down in the door as well but the key one is the outer one I think.

EDIT: cross post with Rob As he says the door drains need to be clear too. The doors aren't designed to be 100% watertight so the water that does get in must be able to drain away..
Old 01-16-2013, 10:29 AM
  #21  
tuddy
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Any advice to checking / clearing door drains? I didnt know there was such a thing.
Old 01-16-2013, 11:53 AM
  #22  
Rocket Rob
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Open the door and look up at the bottom. You will see some holes across the bottom of the door. I would poke a stick or something similar in each one to make sure that they are open. Over time, dirt can collect and prevent water draining easily. If it gets too bad, then the water will go into the interior and damage the interior door panel (door card).
Old 01-16-2013, 12:11 PM
  #23  
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If you're getting water in thru the doors then IMO it's likely your membranes have pulled away from the door at the bottom, under the interior door trim. This can happen naturally as the 20 y.o. sheet shrinks and pulls away, or it can be damaged by a ham-fisted speaker install. (Or both!)

One of the best things you can do IMO is to prevent water from ever getting into the space between the membrane and the interior metal surface of the door by installing a 'shower curtain' sort of thing as an extra sheet behind the primary membrane. This shower curtain is affixed to the metal of the door on the inner most surface of the door, above the big hole that provides access to the window regulator mech. You then trim it appropriately and tuck the lower edge of the curtain *inside* the door cavity. Install the new membrane as normal. Now almost all the water which does find its way into the interior of the door will be prevented from even touching the main membrane.



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