davidwilson11

Im due to swap my clutch out soon on the c4 964, so having a look around to see what options are out there.

So my question? I use the car daily but plan to tuck it away for the winter, after this I plan to use it on nice sunny days (not that often over here in Scotland) would I benefit going to the single lighter flywheel? should I just replace the clutch and get on with it or should I replace the flywheel whilst I am at it.

Also haven't done a clutch on a 964 before, have done on lots of other cars. is it easy to do. Do I need to drop the engine etc.

Look forward to hearing from you

David

Rocket Rob

Yes, you need to drop the engine to replace the clutch. What are the benefits/downsides of the lightweight flywheel? Do a search. Its been discussed here many times. For what its worth, I have a dual mass flywheel in my cab (street driving only) and I'm installing a LWF into my C2 which is used for both street and DE.

koenig_roland

No problems here. I drive my C4 as summer-daily here in munich and switched just to an LMF. You´ve to use an 96GT3 Clubsport or 964RS clutchdisc, wich has torision-springs. Otherwise it rattles up to 3000rpm. With the correct clutchdisc it only rattles between 1200 and 1800 rpm.
I think it`s clear that you`ve to replace the guiding tube and the bearing of release-fork eg.

My RS clutch is easy as a clutch from an one-series bmw. It`s far better than the 20-years old DMF - clutch assembly!

Be carefull to adjust the motronic sensor on the LWF (i don`t know the english name for it) to a gab of 0,8 to max 1mm. Otherwise you lose power in high rpm area (like mine did/does - i get the engine of during winter for a seal-job, so this gets fixed).

No stalling problem here, but i`ve fitted a new ISV (not just cleaned the old one) and my car idles rock-solid...

go for it!

Makmov

I would say probably not for your particular purposes.

Working on a LFW car now and turned out to be a PITA. Sure didn't seem like a LWF car but it was, and needed a clutch.

Its also very expensive to replace the clutch if you want the real deal. e.g. RS parts.

$1200.00 RS Pressure Plate
$400.00 RS Sprung hub disc
$100.00 RS guide tube
$170.00 RS bearing

Plus a $450.00 flywheel.... if you need to replace that too.

VS.

$650.00 DMF clutch kit.

$1000.00 if you replace the DMF.

And I still recommend replacing the trans out put seal, RMS, and all the hardware in either case when you do it. It ends up being a $3500 job to covert if you do it CORRECTLY, or $1800 to repalce the stock DMF with a new DMF.

Yeah, you need to drop the engine with the trans there is no other way around that, which is doable but a pretty big job for a 1st timer. Just follow the factory shop manual there are some trick things with a C4 that if you don't do it just right it will get you in a heap of troubles.

If your are not tracking the car it's probably not worth it. Quite frankly I like the way my drives with the DMF.

While you are at it there are a number of other things to address: engine pad, mounts, oil pressure sender, valve adjust etc.

911PERVY

Not sure how you priced that lot up but as the OP is in the UK he can buy the complete kit for £1100 + vat

http://www.type911shop.co.uk/shop/ar...6aid%3D2133%26

Then in the future a RS clutch kit at £595

koenig_roland

My shop just lowerd the engine and left the G64 (C4) in the car when they did the conversion.
guiding-tube costs nearly the same for both versions here in germany. You could use a normal C2/C4 pressure plate for LWF (i did). throw-out bearing is more expensive here, yes. Clutch-disc costs three times more than a C2/C4 disc but i think it`s worth every -€-

Here in germany you could buy LWF-Kits with all parts you need. These Kits costs less than a new DMF-clutch + DMF-itself...

911Jetta

Great post Makmov!

Thanks for taking the time to explain that so clearly. I'm saving that post for when the time comes. Very helpful.

springer3

I once drove otherwise-similar C2s back-to-back. Mine had and still has the DMF. The other car had LWF plus MAF that prevented any stalling issues.

I much preferred the LWF, but it is a matter of taste. The mass of the flywheel strongly affects the rate that the engine spools up and down when starting off-the-line and during shifting. There is zero noticeable difference when the clutch is fully-engaged, and the angular acceleration of the engine is dampened by the total mass of the car.

If/when I need a clutch, I would install the LWF.

Makmov

Thats the real deal parts Sachs RS Porsche parts.

Not sure what that bunch of nonesense is... does even say. They don't even look like the same parts as the real deal, which I just did in a car. That junk is probably made in China LOL.

I am sure if I tried I could find something called a RS clutch kit even cheaper than that, but it wont be Porsche it wont be Sachs, and no guarentee it will last more than five seconds.

I did say CORRECTLY... and it costs what it costs.

Cheap usually = trouble and trouble usually cost more in the end.

Donno how you can find a RS clutch kit for what COST is on a the pressure plate alone is.

Makmov

How they do that? There is about an 10 inch stud the trans is on and the engine aint going back that far it is almost out of the car, even with the bumper off.

I dont believe it. Dont think its even possible physically, maybe perhaps if they really tortured the drive line somehow.

Makmov

Any time.

If you have any questions feel free.... from someone who has acutally done it.

koenig_roland

well, i can´t say why they did so.
This is a familiy driven porsche-workshop/garage and they only do (mostly old) porsche. The junior owns an 930-RUF and a 964-Speedster, the father some F-models and an G-Speedster.
At my visit before the clutch-job, they had an C-GT on the lift left from my car and a disassbled Yellowbird-Engine on the right of my car...
They should be realy familiar with these cars.
My car was one day on the lift for the clutch-job and i was three times in the garage during this day. The gearbox always remained in the car, the engine was on an engine lift and we spoke about the wear of my old clutch-disc...

davidwilson11

Guys, appreciate the feedback on is one, very much food for thought.

Chances are that the car will mostly be a road car and as such I will probably stick with the dual mass job. Interesting reading to see what you all think.

Makmov thanks for taking the time to put the effort in to the post. Brilliant reading.

N24

Mine's in for a clutch replacement & it was cheaper to go LWF & RS clutch rather than DMF, however this motronic sensor is a new one to me - what exactly needs to be done?
thanks!

koenig_roland

the gab between the flywheel sensor and the flywheel has to be 0.8mm