Power steering belt, cam seal & o-ring change
11-01-2012, 04:24 AM
#16
Three Wheelin'
Sorta wheel nut tight so you don't need to be bruce banner to hold the screwdriver in one hand and tighten with the other.
You want be exact 120nm/88ftlb, think of the mess if it comes undone, it would chew the end of the camshaft. So use torque wrench obviously.
I can't remember 100% but I think it needs to be clean and dry between sprocket and camshaft and antiseize on threads and under the bolthead.
Edit: nearly right (vol 1 in workshop manual sect 15-22) antiseize only on threads. Also the washer goes flat side facing sprocket. The top sprocket has three small bolts that need locktite 270. Top sprocket goes in with writing facing out. The dowel was dropped at some point and you can align the housing with a bolt in the mufler bracket if you dont have it. Otherwise everything just use std toque for the bolt sizes . Oil the o ring and pack the seals w grease. The seals press in fairly easy with the right size socket as a drift. If you fit the lower seal before bolting up the housing to the cam carrier it makes it fidly to get the seal over the end of the camshaft. You need to be careful not to ding the oring or seal as you wiggle it in. Not sure if you can fit the seal after bolting up the housing. Anyway i used a smaller socket to open up the seal enough to slide it over the end of the cam.
You want be exact 120nm/88ftlb, think of the mess if it comes undone, it would chew the end of the camshaft. So use torque wrench obviously.
I can't remember 100% but I think it needs to be clean and dry between sprocket and camshaft and antiseize on threads and under the bolthead.
Edit: nearly right (vol 1 in workshop manual sect 15-22) antiseize only on threads. Also the washer goes flat side facing sprocket. The top sprocket has three small bolts that need locktite 270. Top sprocket goes in with writing facing out. The dowel was dropped at some point and you can align the housing with a bolt in the mufler bracket if you dont have it. Otherwise everything just use std toque for the bolt sizes . Oil the o ring and pack the seals w grease. The seals press in fairly easy with the right size socket as a drift. If you fit the lower seal before bolting up the housing to the cam carrier it makes it fidly to get the seal over the end of the camshaft. You need to be careful not to ding the oring or seal as you wiggle it in. Not sure if you can fit the seal after bolting up the housing. Anyway i used a smaller socket to open up the seal enough to slide it over the end of the cam.
Last edited by alexjc4; 11-01-2012 at 04:50 AM.
11-01-2012, 04:50 AM
#17
Drifting
Find a tool like this, not expensive. Let a friend hold the drive gear from above with this while you undo/tighten the bolt to 120 Nm. very easy, and you take the load of the camshaft.
http://biltema.se/sv/Bil---MC/Verkty...erktyg-191400/
I use this tool for other things to. Undo the oilfilter, cranking the engine when adjusting the valves etc.
Thomas
http://biltema.se/sv/Bil---MC/Verkty...erktyg-191400/
I use this tool for other things to. Undo the oilfilter, cranking the engine when adjusting the valves etc.
Thomas
11-01-2012, 05:23 AM
#19
Three Wheelin'
I think you need to to get the housing off the car. Maybe you could unbolt the pump and feed that out with the housing but the two arent joined so it would flop about a bit.
11-01-2012, 06:03 AM
#20
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
I was thinking...
- unbolt the PS pump from the bracket that holds it to the top of the engine
- Remove lower sprocket (belt will just fall off at this point)
- unbolt housing from block
- slide housing fwd a bit, remove & replace O-ring
- slide housing back, rebolt it to block, remove & replace cam seal
- refit belt and re-attach lower sprocket
So I'm assuming that I can refit the belt and lower sprocket without removing the top sprocket. and not taking off the belt housing, but just sliding it it fwds enough to replace the O-ring (and leaving the PS pump at the top still all connected to the various hoses). Doable...or dreamland?
- unbolt the PS pump from the bracket that holds it to the top of the engine
- Remove lower sprocket (belt will just fall off at this point)
- unbolt housing from block
- slide housing fwd a bit, remove & replace O-ring
- slide housing back, rebolt it to block, remove & replace cam seal
- refit belt and re-attach lower sprocket
So I'm assuming that I can refit the belt and lower sprocket without removing the top sprocket. and not taking off the belt housing, but just sliding it it fwds enough to replace the O-ring (and leaving the PS pump at the top still all connected to the various hoses). Doable...or dreamland?
11-07-2016, 05:05 PM
#22
I am assuming this worked in the end, as I am about to embark on same project.
Recently, I rebuilt my motor and replaced all seals and rebuilt the pump etc... however I am still getting oil leaking from the lower camshaft seal... I guess I nicked the seal when installing so I have to do it all again.
When installing the new seal, is it better to fit the housing to the engine first, and then install the seal? Or is it right to install the seal to the housing and then push the assembly on in one go?
Does the order of operations matter ?
Recently, I rebuilt my motor and replaced all seals and rebuilt the pump etc... however I am still getting oil leaking from the lower camshaft seal... I guess I nicked the seal when installing so I have to do it all again.
When installing the new seal, is it better to fit the housing to the engine first, and then install the seal? Or is it right to install the seal to the housing and then push the assembly on in one go?
Does the order of operations matter ?
