kos11-12

By the way how importante is it to connect the 2nd transparent plastic tube breather to the bypass, the one who goes to the rear bumper .....?
I left mine hanging down a hole for now.....

boxsey911

That one just provides breathing for the lights to try and remove moisture from them.

max3.2

Just put mine in today. Fitment was poor. Chose the 1-wire-solution and tapped the coil. Had something around 200kOhm between 87 and ground and constant voltage on 30, so taking the ignition seemed better to me. Thanks for all your input

kos11-12

Thanks Steve !

This is what I thought , I will fit it before the winter....

964russ

Why did you think fitment was poor?
Mine fits well, but the rubber boot keeps shrinkin back.
Not to bad thou.

mf_rsr

Pics of the coil wire leading to other bit (?) and jumper wire with resistor please! Ill then copy that!

964russ

I only used the jumper wire.
You can see it in that pic ive taken, and in bertrands pic.

From wot i understand thats all you have to do, mine works fine now.

max3.2

had to sand it down on both ends. and the angle is little off.

Bertrand

Prompted by Max, I measured the resistance at the input of G19 of the CCU (that is where the 12V is sent with the mod): 28.1 kOhms.

That is a drain of 0.4 mA. Given that most post 80's cars drain about 50mA (and that is without the aftermarket alarm...) it is negligible and won't make a difference.

Now there is another solution: The idea is to send the 12V at the back of the CCU from the non-permanent 12V of G35.
That would require to cut the wire of G19, tape and insulate the cut end (I don't want potential permanent 12V loose under the dash) and connect the rest of the wire still attached to G19 to G35. (the orange wire - according to the schematics - would thus feed G35 AND G19.

This allows to remove the relay, and even the 30A fuse (massive weight gain...).

Now, I did not try it and do not intend to since those CCUs are known to be happy the be left alone, comfortably set in the dash.

Another drawback of this method is that it is invisible and hard to trace for a next owner wanting to reverse back to stock.

So 3 methods so far:
The coil-wire method: No drain but requiring some work
The socket-wire method: Very easy but adding 0.4 ma drain to the standard drain (50 to 100mA from what I have seen on the net)
The CCu-wire method: Clean, no drain, but requiring to move out the bloody thing...

Sometimes I dream of my old TR4....

kos11-12

Vote for the coil method, done and dusted, (the hardest was to buy the fuse)

964russ

Update!
Having fitted the bypass and the 1 wire trick (relay con), ive not found any probs with battery drain.
I removed all the the heater fan and pig tail resistor.

When driving i have noticed a reduction in air flow with the heater/blower on.
But not a huge reduction, just go up 1 notch to make up for the missing blower.

IMO do it, dont cause no harm.

Laker

any codes thrown on the scantool/hammer?

kylejohnston1

I too am curious about this. Are codes thrown using the methods in this thread? Are there any methods that will not cause thrown codes?

Babalouie

Dunno if mine still throws codes with the bypass and one-wire mod. It still works tho

anto1150

Yes, the hammer gives errors about speed 1 and 2 of the engine-bay blower, plus the temperature sensor (i also removed that) missing.
Although, apart from these errors, everything else appear to work properly.