Heater bypass tube?
#61
By the way how importante is it to connect the 2nd transparent plastic tube breather to the bypass, the one who goes to the rear bumper .....?
I left mine hanging down a hole for now.....
I left mine hanging down a hole for now.....
#62
That one just provides breathing for the lights to try and remove moisture from them.
#63
Just put mine in today. Fitment was poor. Chose the 1-wire-solution and tapped the coil. Had something around 200kOhm between 87 and ground and constant voltage on 30, so taking the ignition seemed better to me. Thanks for all your input
#68
#69
Prompted by Max, I measured the resistance at the input of G19 of the CCU (that is where the 12V is sent with the mod): 28.1 kOhms.
That is a drain of 0.4 mA. Given that most post 80's cars drain about 50mA (and that is without the aftermarket alarm...) it is negligible and won't make a difference.
Now there is another solution: The idea is to send the 12V at the back of the CCU from the non-permanent 12V of G35.
That would require to cut the wire of G19, tape and insulate the cut end (I don't want potential permanent 12V loose under the dash) and connect the rest of the wire still attached to G19 to G35. (the orange wire - according to the schematics - would thus feed G35 AND G19.
This allows to remove the relay, and even the 30A fuse (massive weight gain...).
Now, I did not try it and do not intend to since those CCUs are known to be happy the be left alone, comfortably set in the dash.
Another drawback of this method is that it is invisible and hard to trace for a next owner wanting to reverse back to stock.
So 3 methods so far:
The coil-wire method: No drain but requiring some work
The socket-wire method: Very easy but adding 0.4 ma drain to the standard drain (50 to 100mA from what I have seen on the net)
The CCu-wire method: Clean, no drain, but requiring to move out the bloody thing...
Sometimes I dream of my old TR4....
That is a drain of 0.4 mA. Given that most post 80's cars drain about 50mA (and that is without the aftermarket alarm...) it is negligible and won't make a difference.
Now there is another solution: The idea is to send the 12V at the back of the CCU from the non-permanent 12V of G35.
That would require to cut the wire of G19, tape and insulate the cut end (I don't want potential permanent 12V loose under the dash) and connect the rest of the wire still attached to G19 to G35. (the orange wire - according to the schematics - would thus feed G35 AND G19.
This allows to remove the relay, and even the 30A fuse (massive weight gain...).
Now, I did not try it and do not intend to since those CCUs are known to be happy the be left alone, comfortably set in the dash.
Another drawback of this method is that it is invisible and hard to trace for a next owner wanting to reverse back to stock.
So 3 methods so far:
The coil-wire method: No drain but requiring some work
The socket-wire method: Very easy but adding 0.4 ma drain to the standard drain (50 to 100mA from what I have seen on the net)
The CCu-wire method: Clean, no drain, but requiring to move out the bloody thing...
Sometimes I dream of my old TR4....
#71
Update!
Having fitted the bypass and the 1 wire trick (relay con), ive not found any probs with battery drain.
I removed all the the heater fan and pig tail resistor.
When driving i have noticed a reduction in air flow with the heater/blower on.
But not a huge reduction, just go up 1 notch to make up for the missing blower.
IMO do it, dont cause no harm.
Having fitted the bypass and the 1 wire trick (relay con), ive not found any probs with battery drain.
I removed all the the heater fan and pig tail resistor.
When driving i have noticed a reduction in air flow with the heater/blower on.
But not a huge reduction, just go up 1 notch to make up for the missing blower.
IMO do it, dont cause no harm.
#75