alexjc4

Managed to finish the engine drop on my 89 C4 this weekend, I think around 12 hours all told. Including some fooling around with the oil filter housing connection (which resulted in a short but shamefully childish sulk), that just required getting better access by removing the secondary exhaust and the application of the correct tool (in the shape of a 32mm spanner to counter hold against the 36mm crows-foot wrench I already had) for the job. Needless to say several legendary threads on here were invaluable.

The plan



The execution




Couple of observations.

1. On a RHD car the clutch pipe seems to require disconnection at a union just in from of the gearbox crossmember and some manhandling/bending to clear the nose of the gearbox as it comes out - you can't really get it all the way out of the way because its routed behind the hard tube for the left handbrake cable. Even then you need to lower the engine slightly and pull it back to get it to clear. This means you need to remove the primary exhaust, which requires taking the rear bumper cover off, AND remove the engine mounts from above, undoing the engine carrier bolts from underneath doesn't allow enough for and aft movement. Maybe if I'd done this in reverse order I may have been able to clear the clutch pipe without undoing it.

2. The extra length and weight of the C4 gearbox means the balance point for the engine, when supported by an ATV lift on the heat exchangers (as far forward as it will go without hitting the exhaust cross-over), feels dicey, I looped a ratchet strap around the engine carrier and through the rear frame of the ATV lift.

3. I disconnected the throttle cable at the throttle body and fed it through the grommets - we'll see how bright that was when I try putting it back together.

4. Air impact gun was good for loosening the exhaust clamps.

5. An old set of honda firelade suspension link "dog bones" happended to be the perfect size, with correct hole centres and thickness, to be used as a ready made torque tube support.


I don't think I broke anything on the car, and have just a couple of minor contusions and abrasions to show for it. I used half a box of latex gloves, and spilt a good amount of assorted fluids.

Now I need to tidy the garage before I "un-flange the gearbox" as the serice manual delightfully puts it. Only then will I see what's what with the clutch - which is the purpose of this whole polava.

bigunit_271078

mate how is the heat in your garage? typcial that you would get two hot summers days for such work.

Porsche964FP

WOW! I went to the pub this weekend - can't remember much else.

Great work Alex for a weekend!

Laker

Nice job Alex! someday I hope to follow in the footsteps of all who have gone before me.

alexjc4

Yup was rather sweaty work lol!

911Jetta

Good work!
You need to take the "classic" 911 engine-out picture...
(random web image below)

jotaking

Hey Alex

Well done!

Is it a case of "well executed plan" or "just get stuck in"

This is something I would love to attempt, however I have only ever changed wheels on cars.
Could I ask what experience you have?
Cheers
Steve

falcor

Good work, any chance you could post your to-do list here for us that is mentally preparing for doing the same?

alexjc4

It is a fairly major undertaking tbh and by the time I'm finished this will be the biggest car jobs I've done. Very satisfying though. All the pics like 911jetta posted above have people with look on their faces that combines relief and elation.

I have lift in my garage, I don't think I could have done the job without it. Hats off to those folks who do it on jack stands with a trolley jack!

I read a fair bit beforehand but most of the procedure is the factory service manual, so if you have the tools and don't need to use your car you could just "have at it". Safety is an issue, the engine and box are heavy enough to break bones or even kill, that's where experience helps a bit.

I've worked on my own cars a fair bit, service, suspension, brakes, a spot of electronics on the skyline. that sort of thing and I've built up a decent collection of tools to get me out of most tricky situations, still I'm really slow, partly because I know that the first time you do anything you enevitably make mistakes and a single mistake can cost you big time with these cars.

boxsey911

Good job mate.

alexjc4

lol, what do you mean? you can't read my writing!

https://rennlist.com/forums/964-foru...anny-drop.html

I just used garrett's famous thread, which is almost verbatim the service manual procedure, and transposed the task list to my white board in the garage, so I could tick off jobs as I went along.

I busked it a bit in places, where I couldn't quite seem how the "official" instructions were going to work for me.

alexjc4

I made a train, notice and admire the use of a creeper to support the gearbox


Un-flanged! surprisingly easy the release fork came out like butter.


Not sure the source of this oil, RMS? Doesn't smell like gear oil.

Lemass Automotive

Good work Alex.
Sorry I only just saw your other thread.
Would of let you know but you obviously found out the same way as me.
Top work, especially in this heat ha ha.
What's the plan, rebuild?

alexjc4

Ah that's got the old neurons firing, I think I remember that on your thread now, infact did I comment on that at the time? Doh!

I'm only planning to do the clutch, but we'll see what else is needed.

Lemass Automotive

I probably did. I know I needed the part number for the clutch pipe that goes under the tranny.
Turned out it was listed but had no picture on pet. I would recommend changing the flexible hose and the mentioned pipe. They were both under £100 all in.