I started with a standard 964 C2 (RHD) and have upgraded the suspension to Bilstein PSS10, put on the 4 pot rear brake calipers and changed to lightweight 996 10 spoke 17" wheels. Upgraded anti-roll bars will be fitted next week. Where next...?
I want to maintain a useable everyday car which can pass noise testing for UK track days (98db to 101db seems a reasonable range). So I need to keep 4 seats, need reasonable noise insulation and need an exhaust that can pass track day testing.
Options seem to be:
a) External engine mods to improve power (powerchip, air filter...)
b) Some lightening (change front seats, change exhaust...)
Perhaps the most appealing change is to shed weight (and add power?) in the exhaust but I'd hate to spend a lot of cash and then be failing noise tests.
Thoughts welcome.
Thanks.

 

Weight loss:
* RS door cards, which I believe do not compromise road noise.
* Delete rear seats.
* Delete heater motor (replace with bypass pipe, you'll still gets some heat) & air-conditioning.
* Lightweight seats - recaros (extremely comfortable) or lighter folding versions is if you need rear access.
* Replace one of the exhaust parts - cat bypass or cup pipe. G-pipes that replace the final silencer are often very loud.
* Stereo delete.
* Delete electric window motors (replace with manual cranks) and sunroof motor.
* Lightweight panels and glass - but this is obviously very expensive.
* Lightweight flywheel/ RS clutch.

Power gain:
* K&N air filter.
* Combining a cat bypass and G-pipe provides the best gains (but you may have issues with noise regs) in combination with a remap. Check eBay regularly for bypasses.
* Remap by Wayne Scofield of Chip wizards would be great - If you can get hold of him. He's very, very competent with the Motonic system. You'd have to be very persistent with him.
* '911 chips' by Steve Wong - pre programed chips that you can replace yourself - but not as effective as a rolling road custom remap.
* MAF or Hot film conversion also in combination with a remap will deliver better throttle response and hp gain.

Can't think of anything else for the minute off the top of my head.

 

What do you estimate the weight saving would be, either in lbss or as a percentage of the total weight?

And for the power upgrades, how many BHP do you think those straightforward mods would add?

The reason I ask is that is pretty much the things I was looking to do, except the seats. I know mine are heavy, but they are comfy!

 

Many thanks. A good bag list for the longer term project. Is there an optimum starting point? Strikes me the weight loss programme involves lots of (expensive) steps many saving less than 5kg but together saving 75kg (my perception, not actual figures). A cat bypass, new air filter and remap look favoured for the first step but willing to listen to the experience of others. I suspect there are many opinions and no right answer! Thanks again.

 

In my personal opinion and based on my own physical condition, before I will ask my 964to drop 10kg, I will put myself on a diet and exercise regime. Once that is achieved, I will look at what can be saved in car parts.

 

Eating less = more budget for car parts. Makes sense!

 

Weight:
Unfortunately, I've never been diligent enough to weigh the items I've lost. But I know that replacing seats with lightweight buckets at least halves the weight of standard seats. Some one who has weighed the items will chime in.

Ultimately it's the combination of these weight reduction measures (which can slowly be worked through) that combine to make a big difference in how the car feels. Light weight wheels alone can make a great difference.

The general census seems to be that weight loss if you can deal with the sacrifices make for great results.

Comfort:
I have never in the few years I've been a rennlister and within all the Porsche groups - read a post or met someone who finds the standard seats (even the sport ones with bigger bolsters) more comfortable than Recaros.

I have covered over 2,500 miles in 5 days across europe in absolute comfort - they really are special. The trick is to take a seat - try out a Recaro, they come in all sorts of models and sizes and truly are spectacularly comfortable. Sorry if I'm over selling but honestly one of the best decisions I've made - PS. I ride on 18's with track rubber and KWV3s set to full hard, even under those settings over 2,500 miles they are brilliant.

Power:
With a cat bypass & g-pipe, K&N air filter and a custom remap I've seen figures around 285hp add the MAF conversion and your laughing. Of course figures change with every car, mapper and condition of base engine etc.


Conclusion:
To give you an idea, my car is something quite odd - it's a mongrel.
It still has sound proofing, rear seats, air-con, heat (but no heater motor), stereo, 4wd. However it also has Recaros, KWV3s set to full hard, it's low, track rubber, 18" wheels, lwf, RS clutch and is having a 3.8ltr ITB conversion with Motec - est 360hp.
It's a car In my view that I could happily use every day - but that's just me...

My point being, every car and every owner is different - therefore the effectiveness of mods and requirements determine what works best for you.

The above list/ opinion is purely my general taking through what I have researched and experienced. Have a look and build the perfect car for you - that is the beauty of what can be achieved.


Good on you! Now for us lazy fatties!

 

well the first 300-500 is a wash for adds, so getting a significant weight reductions is tricky, especially on one of these cars. Even a stripped down car ends up being 2800-3000, but once you get down there a 100 pounds is = to 50 to 100 hp.

However, if you want all the creature comforts you are not going to be anywhere near that light with adds: bar and all the the other nonsense.

a chip is probably going to be your first and easiest gain.

The stock AFM has it's limitations.

Yeah upper 200s is possible with modest mods.

 

You missed off your list:

c) driver training

this is easily the best performance bang for buck and has the added benefit of being transferable from one car to another

 

BINGO Steve...

and a proper setup.

 

 

Huh? The lightest I ran RSA #1 (the stock class club racer) was right at 2900 with me and minimal fuel. Best was right at 2:03 flat at Thunderhill Full. That was about 50 lbs under minimum for passing tech. 2:03.5 at minimum weight, verified timed qualifying. I fiddled with adding the weight to run one class up (~3220, all in) and would run right at 2:05 flat. Granted, different days/weather/temperature, but none of us are that good at this level for it to matter. And you can peg "the track" against what everyone else is doing on a given day, anyway.

 

I got a LHD C4 down to just over 2900 lbs (2930 to be exact) with 1/2 tank gas and no driver.

If you figure 200 lbs for a C4 over a C2, that is the equivalent of a roughly 2700 lbs C2.

If has taken a lot of time and money, plus there are no creature comforts left, but the car just flies!

See the mod list in my signature.

Marc

 

Which was right where RSA #1, mentioned above, came in.

I would have been giddy to get my '92 C4 down as low as yours. Best I saw was about 3300--fuel and driver installed ready to hit the track.

 

Marc is spot on!

My weight is with just over 1/4 tank.