kos11-12

Hi guys ,
Sorry to jump in , is it not the ERP outer ties rods with spherical bearings that makes a great difference on the handling....?!

perelet

Here's update. I received 993 knurled screws #17. Here are few pics that visually show that

993 ball joint will fit over 964 knurled screw (p/n 964 341 465 02) but it will have 2mm play. I think it's not big deal unless you overstress your suspension - may shave. Plus this will give you +- some caster and some camber.





Here's 993 curled screw which is p/n 993 341 465 00 which is 13mm, fits exactly opening in ball joint.



Both at same time:


So to use 993 aluminum uprights on 964 and do it right you have to use either 993 a arms or rebore 964 arm and press in 993 knurled screw.


Oleg.

RSAErick

Good info Oleg. Thanks for posting the results of your investigation. Except that this means that I didn't do it right, which pains me. I used the 964 knurled screw with the 993 ball joint. I wonder how secure the ball joint will be with just the torque of the nut?

So, which route are you going to go? 993 A-arms? Or drill the 964 A-arms?

perelet

Erick, most probably I'll drill 964 a-arms, I have spares. I do not have 993 a-arms and do not know if there's difference in casting. If someone is lucky to have both 993 & 964 a-arms - can you please see if there's difference and post pics.

It's hard to guess why factory beefed up knurled screws. My guess it was because of awd 993 tt (which uses same part) - front wheel drive puts significant load at ball joint/a-arm assembly. Also huge brakes put extreme load - 993 tt brakes are very front biased.

On other side knurled screw & caster eccentric are part of crash structure - assembly is designed to break under significant load to absorb crash, so overbeefing it will not do any good.

Oleg

trophy

If anyone would like a set of 993 carriers, I have a set removed to do the RS/GT2 upgrade. PM if interested.