superdylan

I've been having issues with the charging system and I figured that since I had nothing better to do, I would rebuild my alternator. I don't think I've seen a post on a complete alternator rebuild here, so either I'm out of my mind in doing this or it's too easy to warrant a thread about it...or you guys have lots of cash burning a hole in your pockets.

superdylan

Meet my alternator. Yes, it's naked. It's got both fans removed. For the small fan, I used an impact hammer and a 17mm socket. I think there are a few posts on how to remove the large cooling fan, so I won't explain it here.

superdylan

4 long phillips head screws are all that's required to separate the shell of the alternator. These 4 phillips head screws clamp down 4 long hex head bolts.

The screws have already been removed in the picture above...sorry! Sometimes I get ahead of myself.

superdylan

On the back side of the alternator, unplug and remove the cap. Remove the screw next to the cap. Remove the black plastic housing with 13mm and 8mm sockets. (This is necessary if you wish to remove the circuit board from the alternator.)

superdylan

There are 2 bearings on the unit. Here are the markings on my bearings.

small rear bearing: NSK 6201DU8
large front bearing: NSK 817-99DG8

superdylan

How come I have such a small limit on image uploads? I've hit my maximum memory on this site. Is there a way I can get more space?

Vandit

I'm looking at the thread on a mobile device, so I can't really tell the resolution on the photos. Are you uploading full resolution images or are you resizing prior to upload? It might also have to do w/ free versus paid membership. If all else fails, Photobucket accounts are free.

superdylan

Ok, it's fixed. I needed to become a member. More coming soon.

superdylan

My current alternator has a .47uF cap on it. The replacement capacitor that I ordered for this unit is a 2.2uF cap. Not sure if anyone else has seen this or had this happen, but I figured I'd post it. Part numbers for the caps:

.47uF/400V = BOSCH 0 290 800 036 (Note this number on the part is the same as the 2.2uF one.)
2.2uF/100V = BOSCH 0290800 036

Laker

You can also upload images of a larger size if you put a title in each post.

Sorry, please continue...

hamah

Not knowing much about electronics I'll defer to others but seeing the difference in uF/V I need to ask. Part number aside are these equivalent parts?

Great DIY by the way. Thanks.

superdylan

I know that .47uF and 2.2uF are different capacitor values. Since I believe this is a filter cap, it's supposed to dampen voltage ripple and kill some of the "noise" on the DC output voltage of the alternator. Everything else being equal, a 2.2uF capacitor will filter out lower frequency noise than the .47uF capacitor. I don't know about when the change in capacitor value occurred, if one did from year to year on the alternator.

superdylan

Ok, so after removing the screws you should be able to pull apart the two halves of the alternator housing. And you'll get this:

superdylan

Here, you have to use a bearing puller to remove the bearing and metal sleeve.

I went to harbor freight and bought a Pittsburgh Brand 3-jaw puller set. It came with 3 different sized pullers. (For this alternator, I had to swap jaws and parts between the 3 different sized pullers in order to get the entire job done.)

superdylan

I think there are a couple ways to remove the large 817 bearing.

1) Unscrew the 4 small screws from the bearing plate. (See photo.) Remove the alternator housing. Use a puller to pull off the large bearing.
2) Leave the bearing plate attached. Use a puller to pull the complete alternator housing and bearing off together as a unit.

I chose the latter because I was too lazy to go back into the garage to get my other tools.