Notchy Shifting....
#1
Race Car
Thread Starter
Notchy Shifting....
Ok - In the past year, I have replaced the clutch rollpin, new bushings in the pedal cluster, new clutch master cylinder, new slave, slave hose, fully rebuild clutch while the engine was out, and I replaced the Engine mounts with new 993 mounts.
Shifting is still notchy and clunky.
Has anyone gone through the same? My car has 72k miles, and the transmission is more or less perfect. What else can I look into as the culprit here?
Shifting is still notchy and clunky.
Has anyone gone through the same? My car has 72k miles, and the transmission is more or less perfect. What else can I look into as the culprit here?
#2
Racer
So is mine... clutch was just done. In fact it's still in the shop troubleshooting other issues.
My tech says, it's just the nature of the beast and will always be somewhat notchy.
But it depends what you're comparing it to also. Have you driven another 964 that was not notchy?
My tech says, it's just the nature of the beast and will always be somewhat notchy.
But it depends what you're comparing it to also. Have you driven another 964 that was not notchy?
#3
Race Car
Thread Starter
not another 964, bit plenty of other porsches...old and new...i can understand a little notchiness, but there has to be something in the linkage worn someplace. My larger worry is that something being worn like this causing more wear and tear on the transmission over time...my shop says it's not a problem...but clunking into a gear feels like a problem to me. I think they are trying to save me money, since imperfections are normal in an older car. But I like to keep it as new feeling as I can.
#4
Could be your gear oil, or your shift rod, or possibly the syncros. Is this more pronounced with certain gears? I'd start with the gear oil and an inspection of the shift rod. FD Mortorsports sells the "golden rod" for around $200. It's supposed to be an easy sway and I plan to get one after updating my suspension in the next month or so.
#6
Race Car
Thread Starter
more stiff going in, but I think that would always be the case...doesnt feel like the syncros, cuz when I heal and toe, there is no problem in the synching of the gears, butt he notch is still there - feels like it's in the linkage somewhere...
Gear oil was just replaced with correct oil, so that shouldnt be it either...
Baba - I followed a bit of your fantastic rebuild - there was a part where you were changing the bushings in the tunnel - you think maybe my problem is in there?
Basically -I am going to have my shop do the work, so I'd rather be closer to hitting the nail on the head and maybe get it solved on the first try rather than fix a few more things and still have the same problem...and have to go back to them again for more. Though, they are very good and my car is happy....
Gear oil was just replaced with correct oil, so that shouldnt be it either...
Baba - I followed a bit of your fantastic rebuild - there was a part where you were changing the bushings in the tunnel - you think maybe my problem is in there?
Basically -I am going to have my shop do the work, so I'd rather be closer to hitting the nail on the head and maybe get it solved on the first try rather than fix a few more things and still have the same problem...and have to go back to them again for more. Though, they are very good and my car is happy....
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#9
Burning Brakes
Quite possibly...in any case, a worn Ball Cup (that Silvertarga suggested above) would be a very possible cause.
#11
My shifting got much notchier when I changed the tranny fluid to Swepco. Gets better when warmed up. Previously, it had Kendall synthetic (put in by a local german motors shop). The Kendall shifted much more smoothly, particularly when cold.
I will change back to Kendall as soon as I get a chance.
I will change back to Kendall as soon as I get a chance.
#12
Three Wheelin'
Redline 75 - 90 NS made my 964 a lot less notchy.
https://rennlist.com/forums/964-foru...-is-magic.html
https://rennlist.com/forums/964-foru...-is-magic.html
#13
Race Car
Thread Starter
ohhhhhhh - just had a thought - back when my rollpin broke, I had fooled around with the adjuster for the clutch travel. That may actually be part of the issue....
I have the diagram somehwere that shows where the pedal should engage - but does anyone have an easy way to adjust that hex screw? so i dont have to remove the pedal assemply....ie 'screw it all the way in and back up x amount of turns would be a good place to start'...that kind of thing
I have the diagram somehwere that shows where the pedal should engage - but does anyone have an easy way to adjust that hex screw? so i dont have to remove the pedal assemply....ie 'screw it all the way in and back up x amount of turns would be a good place to start'...that kind of thing