Exhaust valve condition questions
#1
Racer
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Exhaust valve condition questions
Hello
I removed my exhaust manifold to replace an oil line and I took some pictures of the exhaust valves. My 93 964 C2 has 140,000 miles and never rebuilt. Do these valves look ok considering the age? There is some carbon build up on the valve steam itself and all 6 valves look exactly the same. Should I try to clean them or leave them alone and just put it back together? Also do I need to replace the 6 round gaskets that go between the manifold and engine? The old ones seem like they are ok. I would like to rep lace all the manifold nuts but Pelican wants $5.00 each is there are an alternative nut.. Hardware store maybe?
Thanks in advance
Steve
I removed my exhaust manifold to replace an oil line and I took some pictures of the exhaust valves. My 93 964 C2 has 140,000 miles and never rebuilt. Do these valves look ok considering the age? There is some carbon build up on the valve steam itself and all 6 valves look exactly the same. Should I try to clean them or leave them alone and just put it back together? Also do I need to replace the 6 round gaskets that go between the manifold and engine? The old ones seem like they are ok. I would like to rep lace all the manifold nuts but Pelican wants $5.00 each is there are an alternative nut.. Hardware store maybe?
Thanks in advance
Steve
#2
RL Technical Advisor
JMHO,
Leave the valves alone and replace the gaskets when you re-install the heat exchangers.
I would not use hardware store nuts as those are usually of dubious quality which will give you major grief later on. Use the good stuff, clean the studs thoroughly with a wire wheel, and use copper-based anti-seize when you reassemble everything.
Leave the valves alone and replace the gaskets when you re-install the heat exchangers.
I would not use hardware store nuts as those are usually of dubious quality which will give you major grief later on. Use the good stuff, clean the studs thoroughly with a wire wheel, and use copper-based anti-seize when you reassemble everything.
#3
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Hi Steve
I was hoping you would chime in on this one. Thank you very much for your input. Will do as you suggest new gaskets, quality nuts, cleaning and anti-seize. In your expert opinion do the valves look like they should on a high mileage car? No worries on my part?
BTW when it is time for a rebuild off to Portland she goes. (hopefully not for a while though)
I was hoping you would chime in on this one. Thank you very much for your input. Will do as you suggest new gaskets, quality nuts, cleaning and anti-seize. In your expert opinion do the valves look like they should on a high mileage car? No worries on my part?
BTW when it is time for a rebuild off to Portland she goes. (hopefully not for a while though)
#4
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The fasteners are classified as a locknut, but I wouldn't use a nylon based nut as it would likely melt!
There is a locknut for hi-temp applications called Prevailing Torque Locknut (hi-temp, one time use). I'm gonna check these out when I put the engine back together.
There is a locknut for hi-temp applications called Prevailing Torque Locknut (hi-temp, one time use). I'm gonna check these out when I put the engine back together.
#6
RL Technical Advisor
Hi Steve
I was hoping you would chime in on this one. Thank you very much for your input. Will do as you suggest new gaskets, quality nuts, cleaning and anti-seize. In your expert opinion do the valves look like they should on a high mileage car? No worries on my part?
BTW when it is time for a rebuild off to Portland she goes. (hopefully not for a while though)
I was hoping you would chime in on this one. Thank you very much for your input. Will do as you suggest new gaskets, quality nuts, cleaning and anti-seize. In your expert opinion do the valves look like they should on a high mileage car? No worries on my part?
BTW when it is time for a rebuild off to Portland she goes. (hopefully not for a while though)
Monitor your oil consumption and when it reaches 800/miles qt, its time to rebuild things.
#7
Burning Brakes
The nylon part also makes really pretty strings when the engine warms up too
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#9
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I'm going to head to Sears Hardware, I just don't know if it's a M8-1.0, or M8-1.25.
They are also showing on the web as available at auto stores for VW exhausts.
UPDATE: they are M8-1.25 and need to be ordered online! Still, a lot less expensive than $4.00 a piece!
They are also showing on the web as available at auto stores for VW exhausts.
UPDATE: they are M8-1.25 and need to be ordered online! Still, a lot less expensive than $4.00 a piece!
Last edited by LouZ; 01-02-2012 at 10:11 PM.