Notices
964 Forum 1989-1994
Sponsored by:
Sponsored by:

Exhaust valve condition questions

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 01-01-2012, 05:52 PM
  #1  
sschultze09
Racer
Thread Starter
 
sschultze09's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Minneapolis MN.
Posts: 373
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default Exhaust valve condition questions

Hello
I removed my exhaust manifold to replace an oil line and I took some pictures of the exhaust valves. My 93 964 C2 has 140,000 miles and never rebuilt. Do these valves look ok considering the age? There is some carbon build up on the valve steam itself and all 6 valves look exactly the same. Should I try to clean them or leave them alone and just put it back together? Also do I need to replace the 6 round gaskets that go between the manifold and engine? The old ones seem like they are ok. I would like to rep lace all the manifold nuts but Pelican wants $5.00 each is there are an alternative nut.. Hardware store maybe?
Thanks in advance
Steve
Attached Images    
Old 01-01-2012, 07:02 PM
  #2  
Steve Weiner-Rennsport Systems
RL Technical Advisor
 
Steve Weiner-Rennsport Systems's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2001
Location: Portland Oregon
Posts: 11,871
Likes: 0
Received 65 Likes on 49 Posts
Default

JMHO,

Leave the valves alone and replace the gaskets when you re-install the heat exchangers.

I would not use hardware store nuts as those are usually of dubious quality which will give you major grief later on. Use the good stuff, clean the studs thoroughly with a wire wheel, and use copper-based anti-seize when you reassemble everything.
Old 01-01-2012, 07:42 PM
  #3  
sschultze09
Racer
Thread Starter
 
sschultze09's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Minneapolis MN.
Posts: 373
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Hi Steve
I was hoping you would chime in on this one. Thank you very much for your input. Will do as you suggest new gaskets, quality nuts, cleaning and anti-seize. In your expert opinion do the valves look like they should on a high mileage car? No worries on my part?
BTW when it is time for a rebuild off to Portland she goes. (hopefully not for a while though)
Old 01-01-2012, 07:59 PM
  #4  
LouZ
Addict
Rennlist Member

 
LouZ's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Philly Area ----- George Washington took a dump in my backyard!
Posts: 4,009
Received 22 Likes on 17 Posts
Default

The fasteners are classified as a locknut, but I wouldn't use a nylon based nut as it would likely melt!

There is a locknut for hi-temp applications called Prevailing Torque Locknut (hi-temp, one time use). I'm gonna check these out when I put the engine back together.
Old 01-01-2012, 08:13 PM
  #5  
sschultze09
Racer
Thread Starter
 
sschultze09's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Minneapolis MN.
Posts: 373
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

LouZ
Prevailing Torque Locknut. Thats Interesting because when I removed these nuts I expected to see a lock washer.
Old 01-01-2012, 08:44 PM
  #6  
Steve Weiner-Rennsport Systems
RL Technical Advisor
 
Steve Weiner-Rennsport Systems's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2001
Location: Portland Oregon
Posts: 11,871
Likes: 0
Received 65 Likes on 49 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by sschultze09
Hi Steve
I was hoping you would chime in on this one. Thank you very much for your input. Will do as you suggest new gaskets, quality nuts, cleaning and anti-seize. In your expert opinion do the valves look like they should on a high mileage car? No worries on my part?
BTW when it is time for a rebuild off to Portland she goes. (hopefully not for a while though)
Your valves look normal for that mileage. The guides show they are passing oil and thats what we see with these engines as its due to worn out guides.

Monitor your oil consumption and when it reaches 800/miles qt, its time to rebuild things.
Old 01-01-2012, 10:05 PM
  #7  
Babalouie
Burning Brakes
 
Babalouie's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Sydney Australia
Posts: 977
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Default

Originally Posted by LouZ
The fasteners are classified as a locknut, but I wouldn't use a nylon based nut as it would likely melt!
Ah yes, I've done that before. Thought that nylock nuts would be the ideal solution to header fasteners that kept coming loose.

The nylon part also makes really pretty strings when the engine warms up too
Old 01-01-2012, 10:53 PM
  #8  
FeralComprehension
Rennlist Member
 
FeralComprehension's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Detroit (Rock City); 1990 C4
Posts: 1,710
Likes: 0
Received 4 Likes on 4 Posts
Default

McMaster-Carr may have all-metal locknuts in the correct size; I get a lot of odd hardware there. You'll have to buy a bagful, but it'll still probably be cheaper.
Old 01-02-2012, 10:40 AM
  #9  
LouZ
Addict
Rennlist Member

 
LouZ's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Philly Area ----- George Washington took a dump in my backyard!
Posts: 4,009
Received 22 Likes on 17 Posts
Default

I'm going to head to Sears Hardware, I just don't know if it's a M8-1.0, or M8-1.25.

They are also showing on the web as available at auto stores for VW exhausts.

UPDATE: they are M8-1.25 and need to be ordered online! Still, a lot less expensive than $4.00 a piece!

Last edited by LouZ; 01-02-2012 at 10:11 PM.



Quick Reply: Exhaust valve condition questions



All times are GMT -3. The time now is 08:25 PM.