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Problem with PDT999 and PDAS has surfaced before in this thread. No solution posted, but voltage levels/grounds are suspect. Might ask u/Goughary if he every figured it out.
Problem with PDT999 and PDAS has surfaced before in this thread. No solution posted, but voltage levels/grounds are suspect. Might ask u/Goughary if he every figured it out.
I saw that thread when I searched. The car sat for 7 months while I rebuilt the engine so I'd only just recharged the battery. I've left it on charge again today. I really don't want to pull the CCU as it would be easier to ask my son to assist with the switch method. I'll see if I can pull the power to the CCU and see if it helps. If anyone has any ideas/tips, then bring them on. As least I know I can use the PDT999 to bleed the locks on my other C4.
I couldn't get the PDT999 to connect to the PDAS so did the lock bleeds via the console switch. Slow but it works. The fluid in the transverse cylinder was the same colour as the clutch slave whereas the longtitudal slave fluid was clean. I only bled 75ml out of each lock and ended up just short of 2 litres in total for the 13 point flush. Doing it with a dry motive saved waste of fluid but is quite slow as I had to check the fluid level after each bleed.
^^ thanks for the insight John ... did you bleed both locks at the same time ie pipe on both?
Is the sequence ...
1. turn pdas on ie green flashing light
2. open both lock nipples
3. see fluid run
4. close nipples
5. turn off pdas
and repeat?
^^ thanks for the insight John ... did you bleed both locks at the same time ie pipe on both?
Is the sequence ...
1. turn pdas on ie green flashing light
2. open both lock nipples
3. see fluid run
4. close nipples
5. turn off pdas
and repeat?
IIRC, with the PDT999999 there is an interim step where you open the nipple, then select the bleed function, then repeat... but it's been a little while. (Means I should probably do it again...)
I ... ended up just short of 2 litres in total for the 13 point flush. Doing it with a dry motive saved waste of fluid but is quite slow as I had to check the fluid level after each bleed.
Taking into consideration the reduced shelf life of an open container is it worth trying to save a little brake fluid? Especially when you consider how long it will be until your next flush? I've always just pushed 2 liters through the clutch and brake lines, even in a C2.
^^ thanks for the insight John ... did you bleed both locks at the same time ie pipe on both?
Is the sequence ...
1. turn pdas on ie green flashing light
2. open both lock nipples
3. see fluid run
4. close nipples
5. turn off pdas
and repeat?
I did the above sequence except that I only bled one lock at a time. I started with the transverse lock, finished it then moved onto the longitudinal lock. The former seemed to flow better than the latter and had a colour similar to the slightly darker fluid that came out of the clutch slave.
Taking into consideration the reduced shelf life of an open container is it worth trying to save a little brake fluid? Especially when you consider how long it will be until your next flush? I've always just pushed 2 liters through the clutch and brake lines, even in a C2.
Good point. I was using 500ml bottles so when I had put four through I stopped, rather than start a fifth. No reason apart from that approximated what I expected to draw in total through the bleed points. Depending on the amount of spirited driving I do I may fully bleed the system annually. It's so easy with a lift and the RBF600 is a lower spec fluid (204C wet boiling point) than the SRF it replaced (260C wet boiling point).
Good point. I was using 500ml bottles so when I had put four through I stopped, rather than start a fifth. No reason apart from that approximated what I expected to draw in total through the bleed points. Depending on the amount of spirited driving I do I may fully bleed the system annually. It's so easy with a lift and the RBF600 is a lower spec fluid (204C wet boiling point) than the SRF it replaced (260C wet boiling point).
John,
Can you comment on quantities to flush at 4 corners and nipple 1 vs. nipple 2?
John,
Can you comment on quantities to flush at 4 corners and nipple 1 vs. nipple 2?
I can, but not with any authority. The Castrol SRF and Motul RBF600 were the same colour so I had to wing it. I took 275ml out of the far rear caliper, equal on each nipple and 250ml out of the other calipers, reducing the to 225ml on the caliper next to the reservoir. There were no bubbles and no discernible colour changes.
I know this is an old thread but does the 964 turbo have a dual solenoid to bleed or is it just brakes clutch and accumulator
if it does have a dual solenoid what exactly is the procedure, from what i have read it says same as the accumulator but that involves steps of removing plug, then attaching plug etc is this applicable to the dual solenoid if so could someone please expalin how to bleed the dual solenoid
I need to take care of some rust that has developed under the ABS hydraulic unit. I figured I'd go ahead and do a system bleed while I am at it. Do I need a Hammer if I'm disconnecting the ABS hydraulic unit or is following the bleeding instructions for the Accumulator, solenoid and brakes sufficient?
Excellent thread. Thank you for the step by step. I’m hoping to complete a caliper, clutch, and accumulator flush while I wait for the PDT999 to be available again.
Also, wanted to mention has anyone tried using a vacuum bleeder? I stumbled on a video of one used on a 911. Thoughts?
I have never tried a vacuum bleeder and I don't intend to start.
I would like to thank my past 2011 self for helping me present self, 10 years later, with the excellent instructions and photos in this thread! I just completed the 4 brakes and the clutch with my motive pressure bleeder and will move on to the rest of the bits in next few days. Clutch bleeding photo below and this time fluid came out pretty clean but lots of bubbles because I had to crack the bleeder open to depress the piston to install it into the trans. Must have let air in when I did that.