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For some reason, the front inners tend to go faster than any other location. I read somewhere (perhaps the vanagon site) that you should "burp" the boot before your tighten the clamp around the shaft so that the boot doesn't "rub" and wear out faster. But this isn't a sealed unit and can breathe slightly, so I'm not sure if the burp is required.
"9. Do not clamp the small end of the boot until AFTER the axle is installed in the van. There are two reasons for this. First, if the boot has shifted a little, the holes in the metal large end no longer line up with the CV bolt holes, and you will need to be able to turn the boot. Second, the boot may end up with a vacuum in it, which causes the accordions to dent and wear prematurely. You will need to be able to pinch the small end and release the vacuum before clamping. Reinstalling the rear axles is the reverse of removal. (Bentley 42.2) "
When reassembling the inner CVs, take a close look a the cage. It has two sides, one side has a deeper chamfer than the other. The deeper chamfer goes to the axle shaft side, not the end side. The deeper chamfer provides more clearance if the shaft really gets moving. No need for the chamfer on the outer side as there is no shaft on that side to clear.
So: raised inner race and grooved outside outer race go to the outside (tranny side), while deeper chamfer cage side goes to the inside (shaft side).
When reassembling the inner CVs, take a close look a the cage. It has two sides, one side has a deeper chamfer than the other. The deeper chamfer goes to the axle shaft side, not the end side. The deeper chamfer provides more clearance if the shaft really gets moving. No need for the chamfer on the outer side as there is no shaft on that side to clear.
So: raised inner race and grooved outside outer race go to the outside (tranny side), while deeper chamfer cage side goes to the inside (shaft side).
I cannot understand most of this post and last paragraph for sure... And I removed and serviced all four axles recently.... Pics would really help. If not, I will contact you with pics.... Hate to think I put these together wrong. Thought only go together one way? I am positive of reassembly of all but inner cage facing original direction based on your post
Greetings - thanks for posting all of this information! I'm in the process of doing this project on my 996 C4S and the outer joint seems to be identical.
I just completed the driver's side - and didn't pay attention to the orientation of the inner race and cage when I took it apart. Although, I made a point to keep the cage oriented the same was as the outer race in case it was direction (which I know now it is thanks to this thread). I've re-assembled the driver's side and took the passenger side off today - this time I did note the orientation prior to disassembly, for peace of mind.
Here's the problem... From my passenger side axle the inner CV joint is assembled differently than how yours is depicted. The inner race shoulder is facing towards the OUTSIDE of the car and the chamfered cage side is facing the INSIDE.
I reviewed your images and from the pictures of when you first removed it - there is a contradiction to what I am seeing.
The only explanations I can think of are:
1. One of our CV joints was serviced previously and re-assembled incorrectly
2. The direction of the two are inconsequential and not put together consistently (this seems unlikely considering they were clearly designed asymmetrical for a reason)
So I have a few follow-up questions. To your knowledge was your inner CV joint ever serviced or disassembled prior to when you did it? Have you experienced any issues since you re-installed it in the current configuration?
Unfortunately I have no service history for mine, so its quite possible its been serviced - but I've also seen the trend is to replace the entire axle rather than disassemble the joints themselves.
I found this image of a genuine Porsche part on Pelican's website. It is difficult to tell the orientation of the inner cage, but it appears that the relation orientation of the inner and outer races match yours:
I started this job last weekend but my half inch socket adapter couldn't cope with the torque. Now I'm back with 3/4" gear. Any other tips? As an aside, I wonder how many of us use the Porsche boot instead of after market. The price difference is huge, but I see reviews on Pelican saying the cheap ones tear quickly. How long are these boots expected to last?
I started this job last weekend but my half inch socket adapter couldn't cope with the torque. Now I'm back with 3/4" gear. Any other tips?
As an aside, I wonder how many of us use the Porsche boot instead of after market. The pride difference is huge, but I see reviews on Pelican saying the cheap ones tear quickly. How long are these boots expected to last?
I just did a rear shaft with these http://type911shop.co.uk/epages/de86...jectID=1248585. They look OK but time will tell. Excuse the mix of bands, I needed supplies part way through and don't have OCD! The supplied metal stuff wasn't great.
A difficult day so far. One bolt head was rounded out so I had to go and buy a dremel to cut the head off. Now there is clear oil oozing from the flange seal. I think my diff seal is likely leaking. Now to remove the driveshaft and see how bad it is.
Btw now i understand why you put the strap join between the bolt holes. If you don't it blocks the bolt exit.
Driveshaft is out. The boot has been torn for quite some time by the look of it. However the grease is so thick and sticky that the CV joint is still well lubricated.
The outer boot is slightly perished so I will do both.
When I got to the point of reassembling the inner CV I realised this thread has no instructions for that. The links are to YouTube instructions. For some reason I still can't master it. Time to do more research.
Current part status. The CV joint is almost totally disassembled (it still has the collar on the joint outer case). For some reason I can't get the joint assembled. I get four ball bearings in but any more and I end up having it fall apart. I have watched the YouTube videos but something isn't right. I think I will separate the collar from the outer case so it's easier to handle.
Help: this is worse than getting a 3 D puzzle for a present when you have had a few too many beers.
Current part status. The CV joint is almost totally disassembled (it still has the collar on the joint outer case). For some reason I can't get the joint assembled. I get four ball bearings in but any more and I end up having it fall apart. I have watched the YouTube videos but something isn't right. I think I will separate the collar from the outer case so it's easier to handle.
Help: this is worse than getting a 3 D puzzle for a present when you have had a few too many beers.
It should just go together. Are you sure (sorry) that the wide web on the inner race is facing a narrow web on the outer race.?
Mine needed replacing when I found this after cleaning.
It should just go together. Are you sure (sorry) that the wide web on the inner race is facing a narrow web on the outer race.?
Mine needed replacing when I found this after cleaning.
Yes, I got that part correct. The problem is that the last two ball bearings require the joint to be almost dismantled. I have a week for work travel then back into it next weekend. I think I will take the back collar off, fit the core to the shaft and try the 996 Turbo YouTube posters method.
11-20-2014, 10:14 AM
The supplied metal stuff wasn't great.
