Leaking / bad motor mount
10-27-2011, 11:13 AM
#1
Racer
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Leaking / bad motor mount
While lifting the rear of the car by the engine to place jack stands my left rear motor mount started leaking hydraulic fluid. I did a search and quickly found that this can happen with older or original mounts. Searching I also found a lot of opinions regarding rubber vs. hydraulic, OEM ect.. What I couldn’t find was information or a DIY on replacing them. I have the car up on (4) jack stands would this be a good time to replace them or should the car be on the ground? Any help with this would be appreciated.
Thanks, Steve
Thanks, Steve
10-27-2011, 11:22 AM
#2
IHI KING!
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Replacing them is very easy. With the rear of the car up on jack stands, place a jack under the engine and take the weight off the mounts. Then using a breaker bar, remove the large nuts (19mm?) on the bottom of the mounts. You access them from under the car. Once those nuts are off, you remove the mounts from the top using 13mm bolts. The mounts then lift out. Installation is the reverse.
10-27-2011, 11:37 AM
#3
IHI KING!
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Found a nice picture of the mount (side view).
https://rennlist.com/forums/964-foru...ref=esp-img#10
https://rennlist.com/forums/964-foru...ref=esp-img#10
10-27-2011, 12:03 PM
#4
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+ 964 on all the above, in addition I would soak the 2 nuts/threads with a GOOD (NOT WD40) penetrating oil before cracking them lose. The problem you face with seized nuts and using too much torque to get them lose, is twisting the engine carrier ends. If that happens you are into a lot bigger job.........
10-27-2011, 12:47 PM
#5
Instructor
Besides the obvious visual signs of failed motor mounts, what are the other signs? Could they affect shifting at all, if so what exactly?
+ 964 on all the above, in addition I would soak the 2 nuts/threads with a GOOD (NOT WD40) penetrating oil before cracking them lose. The problem you face with seized nuts and using too much torque to get them lose, is twisting the engine carrier ends. If that happens you are into a lot bigger job.........
10-27-2011, 02:18 PM
#6
Nordschleife Master
You probably saw my past thread about one of my mounts leaking and freaking me the heck out.
When I replaced them with the Wevo blue mounts the shifting was significantly improved, getting into 1st at a stop was night and day, the car felt way more solid when coming on/off the throttle, etc.
My mounts were pretty blown and sagging, and I went w/ the stiffest Wevo semi-solid blue mounts and the only increase in NVH I noticed was crusing at highway speeds, and the increase was not significant, just a more constant rumble from that awesome flat 6.
When I replaced them with the Wevo blue mounts the shifting was significantly improved, getting into 1st at a stop was night and day, the car felt way more solid when coming on/off the throttle, etc.
My mounts were pretty blown and sagging, and I went w/ the stiffest Wevo semi-solid blue mounts and the only increase in NVH I noticed was crusing at highway speeds, and the increase was not significant, just a more constant rumble from that awesome flat 6.
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10-27-2011, 08:15 PM
#10
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Wevo. Easy, cheap, good, maintainable.
[Cheap being relative, of course...]
[Cheap being relative, of course...]
Last edited by FeralComprehension; 10-27-2011 at 08:15 PM. Reason: Erudition.
10-27-2011, 10:10 PM
#11
Rennlist Member
pelican parts has some 993 solid mounts, great price, good quality and no leaks to worry about. Stay away from ebay mounts, they are crap...I have he photos to prove it.
10-31-2011, 10:23 AM
#12
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I just replaced my OE mounts with 993 c4 one - great improvement (shifting, ride, etc.) and by far the best bang for buck of any mod/repair.
Minimal if any benefit to performing this with the car on stands as you really don't need a lot of space under there to work...in fact, for safety I'd prefer to do it with a vehicle firmly on the ground as you'll be cranking on the breaker bar - just jack (and block) under the engine to take the weight off of the hanger/mounts.
You'll need a 1/2" drive with 19mm deep socket, long extension and (likely) breaker bar. Also, 13mm (I believe) socket with 6" extension makes the top bolts easy. I'd recommend replacing the 4 top bolts too - mine were in questionable shape but I didn't have the spares so I'll have to get in there again to replace them. Torque wrench too. +1 on the release fluid - I sprayed mine multiple times while I waited for the mounts to arrive from PP.
Minimal if any benefit to performing this with the car on stands as you really don't need a lot of space under there to work...in fact, for safety I'd prefer to do it with a vehicle firmly on the ground as you'll be cranking on the breaker bar - just jack (and block) under the engine to take the weight off of the hanger/mounts.
You'll need a 1/2" drive with 19mm deep socket, long extension and (likely) breaker bar. Also, 13mm (I believe) socket with 6" extension makes the top bolts easy. I'd recommend replacing the 4 top bolts too - mine were in questionable shape but I didn't have the spares so I'll have to get in there again to replace them. Torque wrench too. +1 on the release fluid - I sprayed mine multiple times while I waited for the mounts to arrive from PP.
Last edited by Grazie; 10-31-2011 at 10:29 AM. Reason: typo - 13mm not 17mm on top bolt
11-01-2011, 08:54 AM
#14
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The mounts I used are part number 993-375-049-09-M270 available from PP here
(No affiliation...but I've always been happy with PP). A lot of great feedback on these mounts on the forum...especially for thus not looking to drastically change the feel/ride from stock (search: engine mount). Just did this a few weeks ago so ping me with any questions - glad to help if I can.
(No affiliation...but I've always been happy with PP). A lot of great feedback on these mounts on the forum...especially for thus not looking to drastically change the feel/ride from stock (search: engine mount). Just did this a few weeks ago so ping me with any questions - glad to help if I can.