Clutch parts help please
#1
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Clutch parts help please
Today my mechanic phone me about my car, they solved - for now - the issue I had of the pedal sticking on the floor of the car, but he told me that I should order the parts needed for the full repair
I have been using my car for more of 4 years now and I never had a clutch issue so I think the parts I should buy are these I wrote:
99342317100 Clutch, Master Cylinder
96442347700 Clutch Slave Cylinder Hose
95011623712 Clutch, Slave Cylinder
can you please help me on this, should I buy all three parts? are the failure rates the same for the master and slave cylinders? Is the new hose also required?
Thanks for your help
I have been using my car for more of 4 years now and I never had a clutch issue so I think the parts I should buy are these I wrote:
99342317100 Clutch, Master Cylinder
96442347700 Clutch Slave Cylinder Hose
95011623712 Clutch, Slave Cylinder
can you please help me on this, should I buy all three parts? are the failure rates the same for the master and slave cylinders? Is the new hose also required?
Thanks for your help
#3
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Henry,
What parts do you need? It depends on where the problem is. If your mechanic suspects a hydraulic problem then you need all three. But the problem could also be the roll pin or plastic bushings in the pedal assembly. It could also be the corrosion on the tranny input shaft or the bearings on the throw out arm.
When I was having problems with my clutch, I ended up doing all of those before it really felt right. In my case the hydraulics needed to be replaced, the roll pin was partially crushed and the throw out arm needle bearings were broken. In hindsight, I wish I had checked the roll pin first.
Before ordering parts, I would get him to specify what he means by "all the parts"
What parts do you need? It depends on where the problem is. If your mechanic suspects a hydraulic problem then you need all three. But the problem could also be the roll pin or plastic bushings in the pedal assembly. It could also be the corrosion on the tranny input shaft or the bearings on the throw out arm.
When I was having problems with my clutch, I ended up doing all of those before it really felt right. In my case the hydraulics needed to be replaced, the roll pin was partially crushed and the throw out arm needle bearings were broken. In hindsight, I wish I had checked the roll pin first.
Before ordering parts, I would get him to specify what he means by "all the parts"
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Thanks Rob!! as usual your answer is very helpful.
the clutch felt right till this episode, it is most probably an hydraulic problem, I drove in the circuit 200 kms from Buenos Aires and then on the return trip it started acting funny (less and less pedal) till it finally stood down, in traffic right in the middle of BA downtown, I pumped it up and was able to go to the mechanic shop driving normally
the clutch felt right till this episode, it is most probably an hydraulic problem, I drove in the circuit 200 kms from Buenos Aires and then on the return trip it started acting funny (less and less pedal) till it finally stood down, in traffic right in the middle of BA downtown, I pumped it up and was able to go to the mechanic shop driving normally
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If you could pump it up, then it sounds like a hydraulic fault. Most likely the fault is the slave but the cost of the master is cheap, I would change both just to be safe. Changing the master is a bit fiddly. Its hard to get the hard line to seat in the master. Its not flexible. But overall, not hard to do.
Good luck with the repair.
Good luck with the repair.
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The master is not hard to do. Replacing the soft line to the master is a pest as you can't clamp off the hard line so lots of fluid leaks out (ask me how I know ) and the plastic elbow is NLA, AFAIK.
The master is now a 993 part.
Marc
The master is now a 993 part.
Marc
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Thanks again everyone!!! I already ordered the 3 parts: master, slave and hose hoping to end this clutch issue, nearly 450 U$S shipped to my country and with import tax added (50% of cost of goods plus shipping)