Edward

Hey there 964 brothers!

Is this one of those "worth it to get the real Porsche part" moments or is grabbing a set from aftermarket vendors ok? FWIW, I have a seep from a non-Porsche O-ring in there now, but who knows if it's the O-ring's fault so I'm trying again (yeah, with brand-new nyloc nuts, too). What has been your experience when replacing this o-ring? And any tips from you guys who track your cars on keeping the VCs seep-free? TIA

Edward

newsboy

I've never used Nylok nuts on the valve covers. Just regular nuts, with aluminum washers. I've found that using Curil-T can help prevent gasket leaks.

Rocket Rob

Maybe its too early in the morning but I don't remember the 964 valve cover having any o-rings. The valve cover gasket circles each bolt. The covers themselves are held on with simple aluminum washers and nuts.

Laker

yeah, I'm with Rob, are you perhaps talking about the chain cover housing that has like 20 of the little suckers?

Edward

Well let me elaborate: I'm using the billet-alum VCs on my 911SC instead of the 930 covers that most use. While these are aftermarket covers, they use stock 964 rubber "gasket" (which I call an "o-ring" because it fits in a grooved channel in the valve cover). But yes, it is a standard 964 "gasket" (that is rubber ) ; I know because I ordered the gaskets from Pelican. Hope that helps clear things up a bit.

Well the orig gasket developed a seep (dry on the street, but seeped at the track, which is a 95% track car). So now that I'm trying to address the seep, I was wondering if any of you folks use a "better" gasket, or if the OE Porsche is the best way to go. And what's curil-T? I just wanna kill the leak. Thanks all!

Edward

ThomasC2

The OEM gasket should work for but don't over torque the nuts, they are only 7Nm.

Thomas

newsboy

Curil-T is a non hardening sealant used in engine assembly. http://classicandspeedparts.com/inde...mart&Itemid=53

fiskarflugen

Hope this isnt a dumb question but which side do you apply the Curil-T too? The gasket face that meets the head or the top of the gasket that gloes into the valve cover or all of the above?

Makmov

eek!

I wouldn't use any sealer and only an OEM gasket set replacing all the washers.

Edward

Thanks a bunch, gents!
Outstanding, Steven ...I appreciate that!!

Edward

pantera43

Hey Ed, as Thomas pointed out the gaskets are extremely sensitive to over tightening. It takes very little to squeeze out the gaskets and stop them from sealing. I use a very small torque wrench specially calibrated for smaller specs. I snug them down once and have not had any leaking issues from my track 964 3.6. Using nylocks on the covers is a good idea to stop the nuts frm backing off.

Dan

Edward

Hey Dan,

Thanks for the reminder. But believe me, I did not overtighten the nuts. Case in point was that all was bone dry on the street (where my SC is a 95% track car, but I drove it on the street lots before going to the track to make sure it would stay dry ...and it did). But on the track, she just kept seeping. Despite checking torque, then retorquing, then tightening as a last resort ...kept seeping. So I am starting again from scratch to see if I can end the leaks once and for all. Thanks for the feedback. Anything else you've done that I can try is most welcome!!

Edward

mojorizing

I have my valve covers off to due to checking my valve clearances. I'm thinking about going back with Permatex #2 in the grooves on the covers. #2 is the non-hardening version of the sealant. Spread sparingly between the groove and the gasket should help in sealing the somewhat rough surface of the cast OEM covers - that's my theory. The head is smooth and the gasket is "ribbed", so no sealant required on that surface. My only hesitation is the hazard of a piece of dried sealant breaking loose inside and plugging up an oil passage, hence the sparing use of non-hardening type.

FeralComprehension

I used hylomar without hesitation on mine; definitely one of those 'can't hurt, could help' situations. It'll also ease disassembly when the time comes.