geordie

+1

SuperUser

I run Brad Penn 20W50

tall02

I only use Brad Penn 20W50 in my 1992 964. I have used it ever since I rebuilt my engine 30,000 miles ago. Every time I change my oil I check the magnet on the plug. No metal shavings. Works for me.

Good luck

Keith
92 Black Porsche 964
02 BMW 330XI
05 Volvo XC90

mike9186

I am also interested in what people use for Winter weather oil.

I've been using Shell Rotella 15W-40 because that is what the previous owner was using and the car was being serviced at a reputable race shop in Memphis.

If this is cool for Long Island Winters than I will stick with it.

KaiB

I have a case of BP 15-40 racing oil should anybody desire to purchase at reasonable cost...I can't use it.

Earlydays

+1 Brad Penn 20/50

No HTwo O

You could consider the hard-to-find Porsche approved Mobil 5W50.

Laker

FWIW, Mobil1 Spec sheet from May 2010

FeralComprehension

This is hard.

If you really read the article in question, they contend that high Zn and P are good, unless there's high Ca as well. I'm a member at BobIsTheOilGuy.com, where they have a forum for virgin oil analyses. The oil geeks (and I say that with respect) pay to have fresh oil analyzed and then put the results up. Here's a synopsis of what you find (units are PPM)....


$0.02,
FC

Bearclaw

I prefer a full synthetic that still has plenty of phosphorous and zinc, so I run Redline 10W-40.

Of course, lotta folks swear by Brad-Pitt. Probably fine too.

Navaros911

For winter use it is possible to mix the BP products to create something closer to a 5w40 or so.

There are a few other good oils out there with good zddp values.

Why did I go with BradPenn? Availability and cost. I can get fully synthetics, but will still not ever leave the oil in my car more than 7500km (and most of the time it's closer to 5k). That beats one of the main synthectic's selling points, thus a partial syn will do.

Makmov

I struggled with this a long time and ended using Valvoline VR-1 20W-50.

I really wanted to use Mobile 1, I guess the V-twin stuff is okay - it was very expensive and hard to find, I could only find a couple of qts at any one location and it was $9 -$10 a qt. but all the other synthetics have reformulated in the recent past with a lot less ZDDP for some reason. I suspect because manufacturers like putting in there cars from the factory and use it a marketing tool, since emmissions are calculated including fluids - I don't know... just suggesting.

jgrosjean

I have always used 15W-40 diesel oil in my aircooled engines. Never had a problem.

Bearclaw

Understood. I think wear protection of a good dino oil vs. that of a synth. is a wash, and I don't ever have a OCI of longer than 4K miles in this car. What sways me towards synthetics is their resistance to shear in the case of a "high-heat event" (your cooling fans go out on a +90*F day, for instance). That's the same reason I use it in all the rest of my vehicles, really; in case I burst a radiator hose and lose all the coolant, some unhappy event like that, I think there's more cylinder protection available.
In the Porsche, the ability to maintain a high TBN is important to me too, as I have gone two years between oil changes before. I generally try to keep it to a year. The couple bucks extra per qt. doesn't seem like a big deal.

FeralComprehension

While this is my first aircooled car, I'm of like mind and have used these oils in my (four stroke) dirtbikes for years. Indeed, I have Delvac 1300 in my 964 as we speak.

Now, however.... New diesel technologies, namely regenerative particulate filters and catalytic converters, are driving similar type changes into the diesel oil realm. The Rotella T6 cited above still looks good, but who's to say it won't be reformulated soon? Keep your eyes open...