napaul

Hello gents and ladies ! Pardon the long winded story! I have tried searching here and pelican for clear explanation but had no luck.I will give you the lead up to the post!
I just returned from 2 weeks of holidays to bit of a **** off.Pardon the language.Here is the story.I bought a 1989 964 c4 froma fella who owns a shop here in edmonton alberta called elegant motors.Anyways he agreed to to a complete rebuild and offer a 1 year warranty on his work.Now i'll start by saying the work he did was meticulous and good and i have no complaints of the motor or car yet.That being said it developed an ever so slight oil leak that i could not see where it was coming from so i was going on vacation with wife and children for 2 weeks and figured i would arrange to leave it with him to be inspected.I spoke to him and he assured me it would be ready when i returned.So on my way into town after driving for 9 hours with the family i had my beloved car on my mind and couldn't wait to get behind the wheel so i phoned him and told him i was on my way to pick it up. Here is what he says to me "i haven't had time to look at it as i have been busy and did not work on it" well that didn't sit well with me cause whena person gives a timeline and word it should be honored where i come from.So i pick it up go to start it and battery is dead it has been sitting outside in torrential rains for 2 weeks.so my wife boosts me so i can drive it home after the fella kind of brushed me off.drove home with cel on and abs light and pdas all of which were not present before since i had worked out some faults so i attributed it to low voltage from battery being drained.brought home disconnected the battery and placed on charger.while there i noticed water in trunk so i cleaned it up and thought i would check the abs control unit to see if any water had gotten on connector.when i pulled it off i saw a dark and dirty area of connector that had dielectric grease on it and saw pin 11 broken off.looked and the pin allocation and it says voltage terminal 30.

Does this mean voltage to pin 30 which is L-lead diagnostic plug or is it voltage to terminal 30 of some relay? and what is the l-lead of diagnostic plug?

Is there a solution to the broken pin can i use a pin that is not being used on abs controler or do i have to by a new controler?

I must say very disapointed with work ethic at Elegant motors cause when he does the work it is good work but find him very unrelieable with his word and comittment.

NineMeister

Terminal 30 is permanent live (usually red in 964 looms), terminal 15 is switched live.

The K & L leads are the high/low communication terminals for the central informer.

To repair the broken pin you could either re-allocate the connection to an unused pin, replace the broken pin through the connector or replace the connector. I would probably look for a used C4 ABS ecu and replace it, but I'm not sure what cost you would be looking at for another one.

KaiB

Please pardon the interruption but I also need help.

Would anybody have a pinout for a '93C2 ABS ICU. My Bentleys has the C4 54 pin unit, but not the two row C2 pinout.

tia, Kai

napaul

hi kai i was looking through posts last night to try and figure it out and came across a post by compumedic that showed the pinout for the 2 row pin out for c2's i will try and find it again

dlpalumbo

I have the diagram, but dont think attaching will work as the file size is 280K.

Shoot me an email or PM and I'll send it back to you.

Dan

napaul

has anyone ever attempted to replace a broken pin on the connector with success ? or worst case scenario does anyone have a used one they would be willing sell or suggest a source to send mine out to get repaired at?
Could i attempt to make a pin from copper wire and solder on to broken stub of pin or would it desolder the other side attached to ribbon?

altarchsa

Can't help you with the pin, but I would say relative to the seller's unresponsive attention to your problems: Welcome (or welcome back) to used car ownership. My wife says I always look at the other side of the story too quickly, but you can imagine that if this guy made the sale, he wouldn't want you to begin to think that he would be responsible for everything you might find wrong with it, it being a used car. Even the battery drain (although he should have charged it for you when you found it flat, just to be a good guy).

It's a used car. That being said, I think he should quickly address any issues related to his work, i.e. the leak, if in fact it's related to his work, and I can't see how it couldn't be. As for your other comments, do other customers' cars sit in the rain for two weeks waiting for him to get to them? I don't think you could expect too much more than his usual standards, even though he sold you the car, unless, again, it was related to his work. If it was, you should have gone to the front of the line IMO.

Anyway, best of luck with the car, and I hope you either get better service or are able to adjust your expectations so that you can really enjoy the car.

altarchsa

BTW, I'm willing to bet that your Christmas Trees (all warning lights on) are the result of worn plug wires, coils dist, etc. shorting out after the car sat out in the rain. If the wires have not been replaced, disturbing them (R & R during engine work is really tough on them) will definitely cause them to arc and set off the warning sensors, especially when wet.

I suggest you do a search on how to check for arcing (at night with a water hose, etc.). Those lights will drive you crazy if you try to track down problems with the individual components that the lights are monitoring.

Ask me how I know this? After I rebuilt my engine, I began getting Trees. New wires took care of 90% of their frequency, new coils took care of the rest. No problems since then (3 years ago).

Good luck.

napaul

ok so here is an update i removed the abs ecu and with small dremel tool was able to uncover some of the broken pin that was covered by the plastic in the connector and i took a male spade connector cut it down to same size and shape as the pin and i then squashed the terminal end opened it up and slid it over top of the broken tip of the pin and crimped it on where i then soldered it on as well.It appears to be on there securely and making contact.

now here is what i am left with as a problem no abs or pdas which was working prior to me leaving the car at the shop for inspection.i jumped relay r34 to see if thatt made a difference and it did not.when i turn the ignition on i can here ther pump come on and lights go out briefly but lights come back on right away and stay on for pdas and abs on gauge.

What are the obvious things i should check before concluding the abs ecu is bit the bullet? or is there something else in the equation i should check other than r34 relay and connector on abs ecu.Is there other fuse other than the ones in main fuse box i need to check as main box fuses were all good?

i should mention the battery did go completely dead while i was gone but i did disconnected and charged for a day. reconnected and car started like a champ but with abs/pdas light on.

napaul

hey altarchsa i hear what your saying i just wanted him to inspect underneath to see if oil was coming from engine so it could be addressed later or if from new source.i do not expect him to fix something he did not work on or have any part servicing.I just think if your gonna tell me to leave the car there and he will look at it during the 2 weeks and not touch it then i could have left it at home parked indoors in my garage and possibly avoided any of this as the car was running good with no serious issues.

I personally just think it says alot about customer service and can't see my self returning there for work as i have lost all faith in his word

Laker

Can you connect to a Hammer or Scantool?

napaul

i tried hooking up durametric scan tool does not show any faults in dme and module for pdas and abs failed to initialize.

Laker

Before you totally give up on a scan, if you haven't already, try to launch it and go straight to ABS/PDAS, without first going to DME. Sometimes that works.

napaul

tried your suggestion and got it to work here is what it gave me.

code 42
fault condition 16 front/rear acceleration sensor
short circuit/line break fault code 42

code 12
fault condition 2 lateral acceleration sensor
short circuit/break in circuit code 11

this is my opinion and would like feed back from you guys which are smarter when it comes to these things. In my previous post i mentioned pin 11 broken off i now believ it may be pin 9 depending from which side of the connector i count.Pin 9 is for ground ,acceleration sensors. I also mentioned that i was able to crimp on a make shift pin and solder it could it be it has a cold solder and is not making contact as should therefor causing the circuit break. This is my guess as the accelerometers were working just fine and car just sat for 2 weeks in the rain!

can anybody chime in and offer me some path towards a resolution ! i realize a new abs ecu would be a good way to go but at $2500 for a new one it's not in the budget right now.

Laker

Even getting codes is huge and points to the fact the unit isn't fried.