Window stuck in partilly open position
#1
Burning Brakes
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Guys,
After opening the window to pay for fuel my window will not go up or down anymore. It stopped about 4 inches from the top while running it down.
I have done the following:
1/ check fuses - sthat's not the problem as the passenger side works fine.
2/ change the switches around - so I know the problem is not the switch
Observations:
A/ while using the switch I can see the other interior lights go slightly dimmer state.
B/ I can hear a faint click in the door when I use the switch.
What could it be?
Thanks,
M
After opening the window to pay for fuel my window will not go up or down anymore. It stopped about 4 inches from the top while running it down.
I have done the following:
1/ check fuses - sthat's not the problem as the passenger side works fine.
2/ change the switches around - so I know the problem is not the switch
Observations:
A/ while using the switch I can see the other interior lights go slightly dimmer state.
B/ I can hear a faint click in the door when I use the switch.
What could it be?
Thanks,
M
#2
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Amazingly, i just had this happen to my Ford Ranger truck. Exact same symptoms. After I verified that the switch was okay (most common problem) and that the power window motor had 12v running to it, I simply tapped on the motor with a heavy tool (crow bar, actually) and then the window--as if by magic-- worked again. I've already purchased the replacement motor (only US $68) and plan to install it on an upcoming cool today (over 105 F here today). Try the tapping solution first, and good luck. Let us konw if it works.
Should have added that you'll need to remove the door panel, but that's easy; only a few screws.
Should have added that you'll need to remove the door panel, but that's easy; only a few screws.
Last edited by Richard Curtis; 07-23-2011 at 09:02 PM. Reason: adding about the door panel
#3
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You can also try slamming the door a couple times while you hold the switch in either the up or down position - has worked for me before. Basically the same as above^^^modified to suit the lazy
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#4
Burning Brakes
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Will try that later today to hit the door a few time... taped up the opening to keep the dust out here. No chance of rain at 120degrees in the desert.
But een tapping would be a temp solution as it probably means the motor is going bad.
Then the question is: do I get a new one or do I get Bosch here to try and fix it?
But een tapping would be a temp solution as it probably means the motor is going bad.
Then the question is: do I get a new one or do I get Bosch here to try and fix it?
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if the tapping or door slamming works, then you definitely should get a new or rebuilt motor, IMO. When I checked my truck again today, the motor wouldn't work again until I tapped the motor with a wrench. Some motors apparently can be "serviced." (search is your friend) by taking them apart and replacing some simple internal parts that apparently-- judging from internet searches-- aren't that difficult to find for U.S. domestic products such as Fords. Dunno about German, although I've repaired German rear windshield wiper motors in German Fords before.
#7
Burning Brakes
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Since I don't hear any humming from a motor when I throw the switch I believe it is the motor.
I tried to pull the window up by hand and that was not successful. If the glass would've come out of the support I would expect to be able to pull it up. I would also expect the motor to be heard as the regulator goes up and down. I would also expect the regulator to hit the window at some point and make some noise.
Until now haven't had time to try anything and tonight will not be better (single man with a heavy workout and dating schedule).
But I want to order the parts ASAP to minimize the 964's downtime.
I tried to pull the window up by hand and that was not successful. If the glass would've come out of the support I would expect to be able to pull it up. I would also expect the motor to be heard as the regulator goes up and down. I would also expect the regulator to hit the window at some point and make some noise.
Until now haven't had time to try anything and tonight will not be better (single man with a heavy workout and dating schedule).
But I want to order the parts ASAP to minimize the 964's downtime.
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#8
Burning Brakes
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Tried the slamming the door with the switch up or down... no luck.
And tried getting some movement in the window by pulling up or pushing down: nothing. Well a tiny amount, but nothing noticeable.
The lights dim slightly when using the switch.
Ordered a new motor... I sure hope that's it. Hope to get it here before the weekend. But in any case: the door pannel will come off this weekend.
Time for all my other while I'm in theres: door handle recovering in leather and door bins / pockets need to get fixed (there is a crack in both of them... so it's either fibre glass time or someone will need to make an Alu bracket)... and there is that annoying rattle when I close my door of something hanging against a small metal rod and resonating when I close the door. If time permits the new speakers will go in as well (front and back)... though I was thinking of that as my winter project (it's too hot right now - toching the 120s and up - and working in a car is impossible as it will turn into a pool of sweat). At least working on the doors I can do sitting outside of the car.
And tried getting some movement in the window by pulling up or pushing down: nothing. Well a tiny amount, but nothing noticeable.
The lights dim slightly when using the switch.
Ordered a new motor... I sure hope that's it. Hope to get it here before the weekend. But in any case: the door pannel will come off this weekend.
Time for all my other while I'm in theres: door handle recovering in leather and door bins / pockets need to get fixed (there is a crack in both of them... so it's either fibre glass time or someone will need to make an Alu bracket)... and there is that annoying rattle when I close my door of something hanging against a small metal rod and resonating when I close the door. If time permits the new speakers will go in as well (front and back)... though I was thinking of that as my winter project (it's too hot right now - toching the 120s and up - and working in a car is impossible as it will turn into a pool of sweat). At least working on the doors I can do sitting outside of the car.
#9
Burning Brakes
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So after removing the motor and the regulator I came to the following conclusion:
1/ the regulator operates smoothly; it is possible to move all pivots/arms by hand without too much force, the only exception is the movement where the helper spring sits, that requires a bit more effort
2/ the electric motor works fine; it is the gearbox that got damaged. The cog.wheel in there lost a few theeth.
3/ the door is damn light without all this stuff... this gets me thinking... but I shouldn't; should I?
I might see if it is possible to fix this gearbox locally and keep one motor as spare.
Here are two pics of the gearbox where you can see the teeth. You'll see the difference between the two pics. All the teeth on the wheel are well worn.
The pictures are taken looking in the gearbox in the space where the motor axle normally runs.
Missing teeth:
![](http://www.vanoverbeke.eu/pics/P1070044.JPG)
With the teeth:
1/ the regulator operates smoothly; it is possible to move all pivots/arms by hand without too much force, the only exception is the movement where the helper spring sits, that requires a bit more effort
2/ the electric motor works fine; it is the gearbox that got damaged. The cog.wheel in there lost a few theeth.
3/ the door is damn light without all this stuff... this gets me thinking... but I shouldn't; should I?
I might see if it is possible to fix this gearbox locally and keep one motor as spare.
Here are two pics of the gearbox where you can see the teeth. You'll see the difference between the two pics. All the teeth on the wheel are well worn.
The pictures are taken looking in the gearbox in the space where the motor axle normally runs.
Missing teeth:
With the teeth:
#10
Burning Brakes
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Replaced it with a new window motor.
Another problem solved.
I may try to have the gearbox repaired if I ever find the time.
Another problem solved.
I may try to have the gearbox repaired if I ever find the time.
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Amazingly, i just had this happen to my Ford Ranger truck. Exact same symptoms. After I verified that the switch was okay (most common problem) and that the power window motor had 12v running to it, I simply tapped on the motor with a heavy tool (crow bar, actually) and then the window--as if by magic-- worked again. I've already purchased the replacement motor (only US $68) and plan to install it on an upcoming cool today (over 105 F here today). Try the tapping solution first, and good luck. Let us konw if it works.
Should have added that you'll need to remove the door panel, but that's easy; only a few screws.
Should have added that you'll need to remove the door panel, but that's easy; only a few screws.
However, my passenger side motor froze last year and I was able to rejuvenate it. I removed the motor and gave it a few direct hits of power in each direction and it started running again. I operated it in both directions for several minutes, reinstalled it, and it has worked perfectly for over a year.
I think after 20 years these motors get a worn spot where the window comes to a fully closed / open position, If you can unlock the motor by removing it, and then operate it a bit, it seems to "clean" it (clean the brushes off maybe). Reinstalling it most likely sets that worn spot in the middle of normal operation instead of at full closed / open. After full up / down operation for a while, I think it tends to lose that bad spot and will work fine for a long time.
When I posted this upon fixing my motor, several others reported they had the same results.
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ETA: Are the gears plastic or metal?
#13
Burning Brakes
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A combination of both... the shaft of the motor is a wormwheel made out of metal. It drives the white plastic gear inside the gearbox (of which a few teeth broke/wore off in my case as you can see in the photo). This in turn makes the outside cog - which is metal and the only exposed cog - rotate which operates the window regulator.
Sounds more compliacated than it is... but even so, that's more complicated than it should be IMO. It's a pretty simple operation to open and close a window, why are there so many parts for this?
Sounds more compliacated than it is... but even so, that's more complicated than it should be IMO. It's a pretty simple operation to open and close a window, why are there so many parts for this?