O2 sensor
#1
Instructor
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Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Luxembourg
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Hi
Need to replace my O2 sensor to cure stalling in heavy rain, plus an increase in fuel consumption.
Want the original part, as it is the only one that is properly waterproofed apparently.
Is this correct: http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Porsche-911-96...#ht_1588wt_961
Also, DME's - are these worth swapping over at the same time to attempt to get a rock steady idle? Have a new one sat in the boot. Wondering if they either simply just completely fail, or also degrade over time?
Many thanks, Gareth.
Need to replace my O2 sensor to cure stalling in heavy rain, plus an increase in fuel consumption.
Want the original part, as it is the only one that is properly waterproofed apparently.
Is this correct: http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Porsche-911-96...#ht_1588wt_961
Also, DME's - are these worth swapping over at the same time to attempt to get a rock steady idle? Have a new one sat in the boot. Wondering if they either simply just completely fail, or also degrade over time?
Many thanks, Gareth.
#2
Burning Brakes
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Amazon has the best price on the O2 sensor.. approx 89 US Dollars including shipping
Dont know if Amazon.uk or amazon.de has it but its definitely worth a look
Dont know if Amazon.uk or amazon.de has it but its definitely worth a look
#5
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Hi
Need to replace my O2 sensor to cure stalling in heavy rain, plus an increase in fuel consumption.
Want the original part, as it is the only one that is properly waterproofed apparently.
Is this correct: http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Porsche-911-96...#ht_1588wt_961
Also, DME's - are these worth swapping over at the same time to attempt to get a rock steady idle? Have a new one sat in the boot. Wondering if they either simply just completely fail, or also degrade over time?
Many thanks, Gareth.
Need to replace my O2 sensor to cure stalling in heavy rain, plus an increase in fuel consumption.
Want the original part, as it is the only one that is properly waterproofed apparently.
Is this correct: http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Porsche-911-96...#ht_1588wt_961
Also, DME's - are these worth swapping over at the same time to attempt to get a rock steady idle? Have a new one sat in the boot. Wondering if they either simply just completely fail, or also degrade over time?
Many thanks, Gareth.
When I replaced mine it helped the idle, cleaning the idle valve also helped but still wasn't a rock solid idle, replaced the O2 which also helped, and killed the check engine light, but it wasn't until I replaced the fuel filter, gas cap and adjusted the throttle cable that I got a rock solid idle.
#7
Drifting
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The 13294 is plug and play. It has a new engine tin grommet and more importantly a new connector.
With the 15735 you have to somehow seal the old grommet to the external side of the wire housing and solder on the old sensor's connector to make it 'fit'
Personally I wouldn't mess with this over a $ 40 difference, then you have to worry if the sensor themselves are exactly the same and sends the same signals to the DME in every case. Just not worth it for me. I installed the $84 OE one and no complaints
With the 15735 you have to somehow seal the old grommet to the external side of the wire housing and solder on the old sensor's connector to make it 'fit'
Personally I wouldn't mess with this over a $ 40 difference, then you have to worry if the sensor themselves are exactly the same and sends the same signals to the DME in every case. Just not worth it for me. I installed the $84 OE one and no complaints
Last edited by Laker; 05-05-2011 at 10:19 AM. Reason: was $83 now $84 on Amazon *gasp*
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#8
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making up the wire connector which isn't right to fit in the holder, no boot ... why would you wanna shoot yourself in the foot like that ?
#10
Three Wheelin'
#12
Racer
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Hi,
just been running about 3 or 4 months now on a rebuild finish. Had approximately 160k miles on the engine when it was torn down. One thing that I did was to clean out the Cat converter instead of replacing the sensor(would have been next). initially when the cat was off no light could be seen through the honeycomb. after a good overnight soak, then spraying through the cat via a spray tube hooked up to my cleaning tub, I could start seeing the honeycombs cleaning up. Idle is good, and exhaust is free to expel itself correctly.
I have also cleaned the isv only to have to buy a new one after the 4th cleaning. Much better now with the new one.
The other thing I was told I may want at this point is to have the MAF recalibrated. This was told to me by a local P-car mechanic that was listening to the idle. So maybe later this will be done. By the way there are no lights on during run-time except with the top down manually and that is the open top light. Gonna try to find and disable that micro switch eventually. Hope this helps and good luck.
just been running about 3 or 4 months now on a rebuild finish. Had approximately 160k miles on the engine when it was torn down. One thing that I did was to clean out the Cat converter instead of replacing the sensor(would have been next). initially when the cat was off no light could be seen through the honeycomb. after a good overnight soak, then spraying through the cat via a spray tube hooked up to my cleaning tub, I could start seeing the honeycombs cleaning up. Idle is good, and exhaust is free to expel itself correctly.
I have also cleaned the isv only to have to buy a new one after the 4th cleaning. Much better now with the new one.
The other thing I was told I may want at this point is to have the MAF recalibrated. This was told to me by a local P-car mechanic that was listening to the idle. So maybe later this will be done. By the way there are no lights on during run-time except with the top down manually and that is the open top light. Gonna try to find and disable that micro switch eventually. Hope this helps and good luck.
#13
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Yea my microswitch issuewas someone who dragged the throttle cable the wrong direction across my housing when replaing the clutch during replacement. Indi shop broke, delawrship fixed for $90. May be the cheapest repair in pcar history...I limited them to 1.5 hours or diagnostic and they came back with. 1 hour. On the down side the brake bleed ended up being 190.
Hi,
just been running about 3 or 4 months now on a rebuild finish. Had approximately 160k miles on the engine when it was torn down. One thing that I did was to clean out the Cat converter instead of replacing the sensor(would have been next). initially when the cat was off no light could be seen through the honeycomb. after a good overnight soak, then spraying through the cat via a spray tube hooked up to my cleaning tub, I could start seeing the honeycombs cleaning up. Idle is good, and exhaust is free to expel itself correctly.
I have also cleaned the isv only to have to buy a new one after the 4th cleaning. Much better now with the new one.
The other thing I was told I may want at this point is to have the MAF recalibrated. This was told to me by a local P-car mechanic that was listening to the idle. So maybe later this will be done. By the way there are no lights on during run-time except with the top down manually and that is the open top light. Gonna try to find and disable that micro switch eventually. Hope this helps and good luck.
just been running about 3 or 4 months now on a rebuild finish. Had approximately 160k miles on the engine when it was torn down. One thing that I did was to clean out the Cat converter instead of replacing the sensor(would have been next). initially when the cat was off no light could be seen through the honeycomb. after a good overnight soak, then spraying through the cat via a spray tube hooked up to my cleaning tub, I could start seeing the honeycombs cleaning up. Idle is good, and exhaust is free to expel itself correctly.
I have also cleaned the isv only to have to buy a new one after the 4th cleaning. Much better now with the new one.
The other thing I was told I may want at this point is to have the MAF recalibrated. This was told to me by a local P-car mechanic that was listening to the idle. So maybe later this will be done. By the way there are no lights on during run-time except with the top down manually and that is the open top light. Gonna try to find and disable that micro switch eventually. Hope this helps and good luck.
#14
Rennlist Member
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Just ordered this from Amazon: Bosch 13924
Can't believe it is only $67 and the supplier is Amazon. Not a 3rd party. Wish Amazon stocked all the 964 parts.
Can't believe it is only $67 and the supplier is Amazon. Not a 3rd party. Wish Amazon stocked all the 964 parts.