964Ali

I'm going to change the front discs and pads on my C4 myself,but am trying to make a good choice on what to go for.

Choice is normal Sebro discs and Textar pads, or for Pagid discs and Pads from Porschapart.

Or, as one friend suggested, Sebro discs, with ferodo DS2500 pads.

Just had the caliper plates done, so it should be simple. I don't track the car.

Laker

I recently did Zimmerman Z-coated rotors and Textar pads, reusing existing vibration dampers with a very small strip of Liqui Moly Anti-seize Compound... no squeal, brakes feel great.

Makmov

The Zimmerman Z coated rotors are pretty much the only rotors that don't get surface rust on the hubs.

wilko

i have my 964 C2 in at the mo for full brake overhaul & oil service , just been to collect the calipers to take for full steam & repaint , anyhow cost up to now on parts ....
4 new cross drilled discs / all new brake pads /new wear sensors/ all new anti v shims /new handbrake shoes & 2 new disc cover plates - £684
hoping labour&brake fluid about £120/£150 + the caliper repaint in yellow £900 total ????
some of the bits were ok like shims&pads but after 17 years I wanted to clear the decks & hope it stops as good as it goes

boxsey911

Sebro discs are as good as OE in my experience. Textar pads are great for the road but you can also go for Pagid road pads if you prefer (these are actually cheaper than Textar if you buy them from Type911).

vasculardoc

Just bee in the same situation myself - trying to decide on doing them myself vs. my porsche guy doing them, and also whether to go with Porsche standard part, drilled, slotted etc etc.
After a lot of discussion with my Porsche Indy - who prepped half a dozen of the porsches racing in the Clipsal 500 and Australian GT series so knows about these things - the reality is that for daily use and occasional spirited drives in the country the standard discs/pads with some good fresh fluid are more than adequate. Incremental gains come from fluid being fresh, then newer/better pads - although the offset of this is squeaking noisy pads that don't have very good feel/bite until warmer, then different rotors or larger rotor/caliper combos. At the end of the day it is also sensible to remember that no matter how awesome your brakes, they can only transmit the total amount of braking force to the tarmac through four small areas of rubber contact patch - so well sorted suspension and good tires are probably just as important I guess.
In the end i've opted to stick with stock pads and rotors, and renew my lines (which are probably a bit old now and would be a weak point in the system), and if i run out of braking will probably go to different pads rather than rotors.
My 2c

Makmov

Brakes only slow you down...

911Jetta

That's solid advice! Even for a car that sees the occasional D.E. event.

Having just replaced my front rotors, make sure you spray a couple extra layers of paint on the rotor hats to prevent them from rusting. Watchout for those small bolts that hold the rotor onto the hub. Mine were toast and had to be drilled out before I could get the rotors off. I also had a couple zip ties ready to hold/support the caliper while the rotor was off, this helps protect the brake line.

vasculardoc

If you are going to do it yourself go and buy an impact driver to get the rotor screws out (this works for all cars - repetitive heating and cooling of 2 different metals makes them seize) - also make a long 10mm allen wrench for one of the rear caliper bolts (apparently - I have yet to do it but everyone seems to say it is a good idea) - get an allen key and a 10mm socket and a long socket wrench and apparently they are as good as the $400 porsche tool :-)

Mark

sml

After spending hours researching the comments & opinions here, I went for Pagid RS29 and in the next few months will go for Porsche discs.

The noise is seriously loud with the RS29 pads. To the point where it can hurt your ears. Fortunately my daily drive to work requires minimal breaking!

I read comments on the forum about the bite when cool. I imagined reversing out of the garage and sliding into the fence without brakes! But after installing the RS29 pads, I cannot tell the difference between cold vs hot on the road.

If you go DIY, let me know if you want a drinking partner .. although renewing braking lines with a C4 would definately push me to the mechanic!

vasculardoc

Hi Simon,

I saw you meandering along seaview road a couple of weeks ago - the car is looking great on the new wheels etc - are you by chance doing the PCSA run this sunday am ? Would love to have a closer look at how things are going with the car.

As for DIY - the wife has convinced me that with a 2 week old child my time is better spent doing other things (nappies etc etc etc ;-) ) so Mark Buik is doing my rotors etc as we speak. Hopefully have the car back tomorrow.

The thing that gave me the biggest concern was getting a good bleed without another pair of hands, and without a hammer to be able to bleed the PDAS as well as brakes. I know there is a no-hammer method but it needs a few people.

Mark

sml

Hi Mark,

Yes, I was thinking of heading out on Sunday .. probably 50/50. Are you going out?

Congratulations with the new family member!

964Ali

Thanks all.

Just had the lines done too, at the same time as the caliper plates, so it should be straightforward.

Looks like it's Sebro discs, and Pagid road pads from type911!.

Do I need new wear sensors and squeal mushrooms?

sml

my wear sensors were crumbling apart but i just stuffed them back in and they have been fine. I dont expect to ever use them.

i didn't re-use the mushrooms. if you are sensitive the squeal then it might be worth researching options in this area. the noise doesnt worry me, so i tossed them out.

quick tip .. get a thin paint scraper to slide between the mushroom and pad to break the 'joint'. brake pads were the easiest job ever!

boxsey911

Agree with all that SML said and just to add that I smear the backing plates of the pads with Wurth brake paste. Squealing from the road pads is then minimal.