I'm planning to have my front mwheel arches rolled...

I was referred to 'Bodyshop 911 round the corner from 'Jaz' specialists in Wembley by my local trusted specialist.

I then logged on to Jaz's website to see if they do bodywork themselves, seeing that they did - I called and was referred to 'Bodyshop RRR'.

So I googles both, 'Bodyshop 911' has a website, 'Bodyshop rrr' don't... I thought they must be the same.

So called up 'Bodyshop rrr', sure enough they are one and the same.

So I asked how come the name change, the man couldn't give me an answer said "it was a long story".... So he gave me a quote and following that he asked if I was paying cash....

They have a very unsophisticated website that barely states anything ( not that that is a terrible thing, but it all ads up )

All sounds fishy to me?

What do you think?
Are my suspicions unwarranted?
Has someone used them before?
Surely if Jaz and my specialist recommend them, they must be good, no?

Also as I understand it, through rennlist and my very trusted specialists, panel beating etc can't be done or the paint may crack and that the solution is a special type of 'rolling machine'.

Bodyshop 911/ Bodyshop rrr, told me that the arch could simply be heated with an air gun and then carefully beaten/ folded in??? Isn't this ver risky regarding the paint?

Thought would be much appreciated, thanks.

 

Nothing fishy at all imo - I've used Cris at 911 Bodyshop a few times - he's a nice guy and the work that he did on my car was spot on. He's the guy who built graemel (on PH) 911 Supersport road legal race car.

 

Great, that's what I was hoping to hear. Always worth checking. Thanks talat

 

Could you point me to the link on PH about that car? Thanks

 

I don't think there is a specific build thread but I found some photos on this thread:

http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/t...60395#16743595

 

Frank I've only every heard good things about 911 bodyshop

Though arch rolling is usually carried out with a specialist tool or a baseball bat (if you know what youre doing!)

There are even specialists who do nothing else

http://www.archenemy.co.uk/

 

Well my mind is perfectly at ease now, always worth checking.

However, maybe I should use a company with the specialist tool? What do you know of archenemy?

Thanks

 

Funnily enough I've used archenemy for a drift car a few years ago - he did a pretty good job. What I will say is that if the paint cracks then you'll need to visit a bodyshop anyway.

 

Sure, but isn't there less chance of that happening with a proper wheel arch rolling machine?

 

Nope, the tool just makes it easier for the operator to roll the arch. From memory there are a number of factors that determine whether the paint will crack - I had both rear arches done and the paint cracked on both sides. Could be worth a punt though since it was cheap when I had it done + plus they'll come to your home.

 

Apologies for all the questions - surely heating the lip and beating it is more risky than heating and slowly rolling? Did you use a rolling tool or beating when they cracked?

I'm starting to lean towards having it done by ArchEnemy since they have the tool and specifically specialise in the 'art' and your seal of approval.

Ps. Exciting project your 3.8rsr, I'm subscribed

 

No personal experience I'm afraid, i just found them when researching a while ago

Talat's experience sounds like they may be worth a go though

 

As a wild guess, I wouldn't be surprised if a well known manufacturer objected to the use of 911 in their name....

 

Should have posted the following in this thread ...

On my 964, I had the lip rolled and also the fender flared.

Are you doing (a) lip rolling or (b) fender flaring, or (c) both?

Lip rolling - just that small 3 to 4mm angle lip on the inside of the guard to give the fender some strength. As it is only 3-4mm, it is hard to get the leverage to fold it flat. It was half achieved with the lip rolling tool and flattened further with a hammer & round stone thing. Heat was applied and yes there are some cracks on the corner of the paint at the fold in ad hoc locations. You probably gain about 2-3mm of clearance.

Fender flare - you can push out the edge of the guard outwards with the fender rolling tool. I gained about 3mm of clearance doing this. Would be hard to do this without rolling the lip at least partially.

Having watched the body shop guy do the work on my car, if I was doing it again, I would buy this tool and do it myself. This would allow me to take more time and make sure the fender was within 1mm of the tyre.

http://www.tirerack.com/accessories/detail.jsp?ID=52

 

Looks nicer than the one they used on my '72. Will it fit a P car? "The rolling tool fits all four- and five-lug wheel hubs up to 120mm bolt circle with hubs up to 72.5mm. "