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Heater Bypass Tube. Part #

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Old Feb 9, 2011 | 03:06 PM
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Default Heater Bypass Tube. Part #

In case anyone is curious. The part number for the factory heater bypass tube, the one in the engine bay is 993-211-941-00. I had expected a 964 number when I ran accross this a few days back. Ordered the part from Sunset and received it last night. It was an easy 25 minute install, and works perfectly. Bye-bye motor assembly and 5-6 Lbs. Nice!!!
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Old Feb 9, 2011 | 04:00 PM
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Problem is its dearer than we can buy the Carbon version for, in the UK at least

I will certainly put one on mine when Ive got a few spare ££
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Old Feb 9, 2011 | 04:33 PM
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I have a large hole in my heater tube where the tube has deteriorated - over near the engine fan blades. Can this cause any problems?

I dont really need heating. Can I delete the whole system? Is this the best way to delete, although it still seems to be a large tube and connects up the system just minus the blower.
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Old Feb 9, 2011 | 04:38 PM
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Originally Posted by sml
I have a large hole in my heater tube where the tube has deteriorated - over near the engine fan blades. Can this cause any problems?

I dont really need heating. Can I delete the whole system? Is this the best way to delete, although it still seems to be a large tube and connects up the system just minus the blower.

http://www.rennline.com/Rennline-RSR...ctinfo/M05.07/
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Old Feb 9, 2011 | 06:08 PM
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Regardless of what I do, it looks like I also need an 'air duct for engine cooling fan' as this piece is falling apart ...

air duct for engine cooling fan


What does this part do differently to the usual set-up. It looks similar to 'christallon' part or the delete option from rennline ..

hot air duct
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Old Feb 9, 2011 | 06:58 PM
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Christallons part and your hot air duct link are the same thing

They duct air from the engine to the cabin, installing one just removes the fan assistence.

The Rennline kit is a complete heater delete, No heat will be ducted into the cabin if you install one
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Old Feb 9, 2011 | 07:15 PM
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Thanks. It is starting to make sense

for the hot air duct ...
where does the hot air go if it is a hot day and the cool air is blowing? is there a flap later in the system?
is there still enough pressure to pump hot air into the cabin? why have the blower in the first place?

Is there any impact to engine cooling with either option?

Would engine cooling be better with the delete option?
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Old Feb 10, 2011 | 12:12 PM
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Originally Posted by christallon
In case anyone is curious. The part number for the factory heater bypass tube, the one in the engine bay is 993-211-941-00. I had expected a 964 number when I ran accross this a few days back. Ordered the part from Sunset and received it last night. It was an easy 25 minute install, and works perfectly. Bye-bye motor assembly and 5-6 Lbs. Nice!!!
I have looked at different heater bypass pipes in the range of $ 200-300 any chance you would let us know how much Sunset charges for the Factory unit?

Thanks

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Old Feb 10, 2011 | 12:17 PM
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$192.60 plus shipping
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Old Feb 10, 2011 | 12:50 PM
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Chris,

Pictures and DIY please
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Old Feb 10, 2011 | 01:01 PM
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Go here http://www.porsche964.co.uk/ Click technical, then electrical repairs then heater bypass. All you need to know. The electrical part of the DIY is not necessary if you're OK with gravity fed heat. I find it's plenty here in Calif

How are you?
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Old Feb 10, 2011 | 02:12 PM
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Do you notice much change in flow of hot air to vents?
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Old Feb 10, 2011 | 02:35 PM
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There is a carbon one for less that looks good, thinking of saving for this one.

http://www.maxspeed-motorsports.com/964ip.html

I have disconnected my motor and use the existing part for air flow and I get plenty enough heat for our cold winters up north. I also did the relay jump so that I can still use the fans up front to control airflow.
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Old Feb 10, 2011 | 05:46 PM
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Wow, Nice price on a CF unit too. Looks like there are equally priced options. Cool
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Old Feb 10, 2011 | 11:40 PM
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I did this recently and jumpered the relays too - many have experienced dead batteries due to some power drain when the jumpers are in place - but I have not. I left the resistor connected and disconnected everything else and no discernible power drain for me.
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