Rkick

Hello guys,

My slave cylinder and the hose are due. I have inconsistent clutch pedal and shift feel. The hose looks like a dig. I have bled once but it still squeaks.

So here are my questions. By removing the engine mount bolts, how far can you lower the motor without stressing any wires or hoses in order to get better access to the slave from the side? There was not enough clearance to fight the 13mm nuts when I last tried. Also, how do you get the air control valve off? It looks like the top nut is hard to beat.

Thanks in advance for your advice.

Rkick

SuperUser

I am just about to put one up for sale, I never got around to installing it in my 993.

mike9186

I did mine in the Summer and found that removing the air intakes on the inside top of the rear wheelwells will give you sufficient access to the slave cylinder and hose. You would have to drop the engine/tranny assembly more than the motormounts will allow to enable you to both see and touch the slave. Once you accept that you have the option of either seeing or touching the slave cylinder (but not both simultaneously) you will be OK.

Also pick up some ratcheting wrenches with a 13mm size. It's supertight in there and a socket won't work easily.

I'm a rank amateur at auto wrenching and I got it done in about 1.5 hours.

Lastly do not forget to buy the high temp grease for the fork assembly and it is a good idea to bleed the slave again a few months after install. Your clutch will have a completely different feel.

springer3

I changed the cylinder and hose without lowering the engine. It is a tight fit and it does take some finegaling to get the correct length extensions for the ratchet drives. The job itself took about 30 minutes once I had the car elevated and the correct tools in hand. Getting to that point took about 2 hours.

Replacing the slave cylinder cured the hanging clutch problem, and it drove like a new car again.

DWS964

The biggest PITA I recall in this project was breaking loose the connection for the hose to the hard line on the body. The next item was holding the new slave in position, pushing it in a bit while trying to get one of the nuts started. Use high-temp caliper grease on the end of the push rod where it engages with the release fork.
Correct - you have a choice - see it or feel it, but not both.

bpras@msn.com

I am replacing the slave cylinder and hose while the engine is out. I plan on installing the replacement with the hose while the engine is out and then just connecting the hose after the engine is back in. Any pitfalls with this method? I am worried the plunger might loose connection with the clutch fork.

apanossi

No need to lower the engine. As mentioned previously, loosening the driver side air duct will help. One thing no one mentions is that installing the cylinder mounting nuts is more of a feel thing than actually seeing what you are doing. You have to lay on your back and have one arm reach above each side of the transmission housing. Give it a big hug. At that point, it's a bit of trial and error in getting the nuts on.

Goughary

Never thought of doing it that way! Hugging the trans...

I always just reach up with my left hand while sitting next to the hub and do it one handed. Body facing the rear of the car. This is not the easy way...for sure. But i could probably build one of these cars blind folded at this point, so i make it work. Changing the slave while the engine is out is way easier...

As to the hose. Yes attach the hose to the slave and torque that down first...the one thing you want to watch out for is the nut on the hard line the hose attaches to- that, since it sees weather, gets sticky and sometimes due to corrosion, will be fused to the copper line or will simply not spin freely. Clean that up and make sure that spins freely on the hard line prior to attempting to hook the softline to it...

Ralph3.

Just did this last week, a lot of fun but it can be done without dropping the engine. Took a while to get the nuts on the studs and skinned up my right arm a bit. Knowing what I know now would have replaced when the engine was out for the top end.

Piper_GT3

Hey guys …. jumped into this with a friend….. and the slave is ….. well not going back in intuitively that for sure…

the issue is once the slave cylinder piston is actually properly seated in the clutch fork, the force required to push the slave back far enough to get thread purchase is just killing me. I cant both get enough force to push in the slave, and hold it in place long enough to get a nut on.

Any tips?

Was not expecting this to be the hardest part as there is no mention of this by anyone else on the thread, so want to stop and ask in case im missing something obvious that everyone else figured out?

RicardoD

I cracked the bleed valve when I reinstalled the clutch slave to get the piston to compress for easy install.

Goughary

Crack the bleeder. Put a tube on the bleeder so you route the slippery stuff away from your hands and the slave.

95_993

Loosen the bleeder slightly. You'll need to bleed it anyway. Put rag underneath as it may get a little messy but it will allow some of the pressure to bleed off.

Piper_GT3

Thank you to the replies. I will try opening the bleed valve, but am worried that may not be it……. We actually bleed the whole line and disconnected the house to take any pressure at all from the fluid out (on install of new line and slave). So no fluid in the new line and the line is open, so any pressure release would already be more than an open valve would be. The issue just seems how stiff the coiled spring load is, will active fluid help?

perhaps thats the problem right there …… does the line need to be pressurized when the slave is going back in? We assumed pressurizing it after you get it re- installed, and then putting new fluid in.

RicardoD

Did you try opening the bleed valve?