elbeee964

My rear encapsulation tin is out (I'm reinforcing the engine carrier) and it's time for a repaint. (See below, the old paint's flecking off)

Did the previous tin paint job suffer because of bad prep, or because the tin is galvanized - and nothing sticks to galvanized?

I believe - but don't know for certain - that the tin, shown, is a replacement for a rear end crunch. So, I don't know that the pictures are of a factory paint job.

I'm hoping for the former as I'd love to just spray can repair it back to satin black.











the following pictures are just eye-candy of an in-place engine decapsulation, carrier reinforcement gusseting, and post-valve job clean valve covers. enjoy.

911Jetta

I feel like a pervert looking under your car's skirt...

Rocket Rob

Lonnie,

My engine tin was rusty too. I took it to a local powder coating shop and had it painted satin black. That was 2 years ago and so far the paint is holding up well. The cost was not bad $80 for 7 pieces.

elbeee964

Weirdly, this tin doesn't show any signs of rust. Which was why I put up this thread: was galvanization the defeater of any normal spray can job?

It sure would be nice to put this all on a **** poor prep job (eg, they didn't thoroughly degrease prior to shooting).
But if galvanic reaction is any paint job's Achilles heel on this tin, what's a work around prep before shooting? (Alumininum primer??)

And, Jetta - perv away.
There'll be some followups photos after I've given this engine area a cleaning-in-place.
I've never touched, or cleaned this area before. Hope to clean off that oil carrier line's braid, for one - in a gentle fashion, of course!)
After getting through, it should be a LOT pleasanter/cleaner area to break into next time.

Ken D

I don't know if you removed yours - but the braided portion of the hose is supposed to be covered by a protective heat sleeve. Mine had long since gone 'lost' and I ended up replacing the hose due to leaks at the crimped-on ends. I don't know whether the missing sleeve measurably contributed to deterioration.

I repainted my tin (after degreasing & priming) using high-temp wrinkle paint. So far so good.

altarchsa

Based on having owned 4 different year model 911's, the flaking of the paint on your tins looks pretty normal to me. I know from my architectural background that it's difficult to get paint to stick to galvanized metal. However, over the years some prep treatments have become pretty successful. You probably should contact a paint rep to find the best prep for the application if you're really concerned about continued flaking.

On my next engine out, I'm going with the zinc plating shown in a recent post! It was b---utiful.

KirkF

I powder coated mine in gloss black.
It has held up very well.

Kirk

BIG'UN

Lonnie,
When I had new engine tins the rear one seemed to be painted to
a poorer standard than the others, so if it has been replaced that could be the reason it's flaked off before the rest. That and the extra heat around it. To me it doesn't look galvernised, perhaps you just caught it in time. With mine I had them yellow zinc plated
as it would be less likely to chip off and rust.Also they are dipped fully so everything gets a covering. Combine this with an epoxy powder coating in your choice of colour and you should have a really good finish and protection.

Altarchsa,
If you do go with zinc plating I would advise having them oversprayed with a VHT clear mat paint to seal in the colour as it will fade in time if left to the elements.

Andy.

elbeee964

Thanks Big'Un - errr, Andy.

elbeee964

Latest info:
Removed most all the paint on that tin with aircraft paint remover, knife scraping, finger nail(s), followed by a thorough high-pressure water spray.
Anything left over was small, tough, or tenacious.
Plan on hitting the tin with a spray primer + paint.
Satin black, bar-b-que temperature stuff, if I can find it.

The engine's underside cleaning is coming along well. (Sorry, pics to follow.)

The weld dude (a welding instructor at the local shipyard) says the engine carrier's gusset was finished over the weekend.
That part will get satin black spray paint, too.

That's it for now. pics to follow.

Trivia: I now know where the car's interior faint oil aroma comes from: engine case seepage oil onto the two orange rubber vent line connectors (seen under the car) allows a small film of oil to migrate just past thier band clamps. My vent line (running parallel to the primary muffler) had a film of black dirt/oil on its insides, heaviest right next to these orange rubber connectors.
No wonder there's an oil whiff about our interiors.

altarchsa

Don' t do it!

Not if you're planning on it staying in good condition. Barbeque pit paint resists the heat, but the ones I've used don't resist petroleum products. You'll find it begins to peal off before long. If you went to all the trouble of cleaning the old paint off, and I know how much trouble that was, go for powdercoat at a minimum. Or maybe someone can recommend a heat resistant automotive paint, if ther is one, that will do the trick.

elbeee964

right-oh. Thanks!
Engine block paint, it is, then.