Cosmos99

Don't want to say I told you so...but you are doing exactly what I did. I didn't want to think that it was all the leads that would cost $500.00 to replace. I bought new coils first, then new coil wires, then caps and rotors plus I replaced my distributor belt. The problem was still occurring so I found a NGK wire set on ebay for $200.00 shipped and I also got new plugs. After a long weekend of changing out the leads and plugs my problem was solved and the car runs like a peach. The leads that I replaced only had 12k miles on them so I refused to believe that was the problem until I realized that they were over 10 years old. Lorens advice that replacing all of these at scheduled intervals is spot on. He is a smart guy and I value his advice on this board. Now order some new leads and plugs and be ready to spend some time cursing and screaming about how little room there is to do the job comfortably then go out and enjoy a trouble free drive.

c2dweller

Leads replaced (and fitted with insulating lubricant). Replaced coils as well.

Runs better but not the cure

After reading around I focussed back on the air flow sensor - gave the white widget a really good clean. In doing so I also spotted a loose breather pipe behind the ISV. A pinch-up there and the car is running better than ever in my hands ... job done.

Time to enjoy

Shamus964

Cosmos99 - what do you think of the NGK's? How were they to run - did you use the original wire spacers etc from the old set?

Cosmos99

I love them. Yes I had to use the original wire clips and spacers also the other pain is the wires are not numbered so you have to match them one by one with the factory wires. Very time consuming but less than half the price for a better made wire.

Shamus964

I just pulled the trigger on these too - spoke with the Ebay seller and he verified that they have Beru ends on them too.

Were you able to successfully remove and replace all the spacers etc?

Cosmos99

Yes. The hardest part was careful splicing of the gaskets going through the engine tin. Didn't want to risk pulling the ends off the wires and getting arcing again.

P964C2

I had this problem once on a 964 C2 Targa which caused all the dash lights to flash and set the warning alarm off, and twice with my current C2 Coupe Tip.

I solved the problem on the Targa by cleaning up the main coil HT connection with wet & dry paper + WD40 and replacing the HT lead to the distributor. The car was under warranty so it initially went to Porsche GB and then a "specialist"; neither couldn't identify the fault. They had obviously never read a basic car maintenance book (er, check the HT leads and coil etc), and said the wiring loom was at fault!! (hence I have limited confidence in Porsche dealerships and certain "specialists"!)

More recently on my C2 Coupe Tip the same problem caused the tip tronic gearbox to switch into limp mode. Inspection revealed arcing on the coil. Cleaned it all up, and the dizzy caps, everything fine since. A bit later I could hear a "ticking" noise at the back. Removed the coil cover to find arcing again! Applied some Castrol LM grease lightly around the top of the coil under the HT cap to the distributor and no problems since! The integrity of the surface of the top of the coil is important - if it is dirty or rough it can easily conduct a spark to the +ve or -ve terminal.

bmohr

So I experienced the stuttering at speed yesterday on the drive home from work. Got home and took a look. I could hear an audible "clicking" like noise that turns out to be arcing at the coils. Removed and installed new bosch black coils. The sound is gone and engine runs well, but I can see a tiny arch of current seen through the slit in the black plastic snap on shielding. Is this normal? or are you supposed to have Zero arcing in this area? No other cables or plugs show arcing via mist spray.

Cosmos99

When I had sparks at the coming out of the plastic coverings at the coils it was my coil wire leads "leaking" I replaced all of my spark plug wires and coil wires and haven't had a problem in 1.5 years. I suggest doing the same all at once so you don't keep having the problems.

bmohr

thanks cosmos99. I think i'll have to do that for sure because what I noticed is one of the ignition leads or plug was not snuggly fitting on the coil. It would rise up a bit after I pressed down hard. The other side(left) was nice and snug and in place. That being said, the other thing is that I've isolated that arcing snapping ticking noise in my primary dizzy with a stethoscope. So, is this another symptom of the leaking coil lead or something else? I checked the rotor and cap look relatively good(only replaced a couple hundred miles ago). Cleaned em anway and noise persists.

bmohr

I found these on fleabay. Bosch set, 250 bucks or so, Beru's(which I have now) are twice that price. Anyone have a preference or why I should not get the bosch set?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/BOSCH-09150-...sories&vxp=mtr

Cosmos99

I bought a set of NGK's for $250 myself...The only big pain in the *** is that the Bosh ( I believe ) and the NGKs ( I know ) is that they are not numbered and do not come with the mounting clips like the Beru set. So I had to take each one off the car 1 by 1 and match the length up with the new NGK wire.

Cosmos99

Probably just another wire arcing on the dizzy...I have heard of Bosh caps/rotors failing prematurely but mine are fine. Safe bet would be to do all new plugs and plug wires and call it a day. It's time consuming but well worth it. If your feeling adventurous you might as well do a valve adjustment.

bmohr

Thanks for the feedback Cosmos. I think I'm going to buy a new plug lead, wire it up and see if that solves the problem first. It's only 20 bucks. If not then I'll be purchasing a new wire set in whole. primary cap and rotor are in good shape although the hall sensor looks beat up honestly. Only way to fix that is a new dizzy as far as I'm aware of. Hopefully the ticking is just a symptom of the arcing coil. I'll find out soon enough and drop a post.

Cosmos99

Hopefully it works out for you. From what I understand though is that the electricity will follow the path of least resistance so once you fix the coil wires if there are other leak prone wires it will go there next.