Arcing at the coil terminals, any thoughts?
#31
Arcs burn the insulation, and the carbon tracks are conductive.
Replacing the caps, rotors, and plugs on the recommended intervals is a cheap way to make the expensive spark plug wires and expensive electronics last longer. Clean, gapped, and sharp-cornered spark-plug electrodes spark-over at lower voltage, keeping the electrical stress low. Dirty, out-of-adjustment, or eroded electrodes spark over at significantly higher voltage (<4 kV is typical for new parts, worn parts can go double or triple that before the plug fires).
Dielectric grease is fine for keeping water out as long as you avoid the electrical contacts. Grease will not cure a carbon track. Cleaning might help, but if the tracks are burned in, all-new parts are the best way to go.
Replacing the caps, rotors, and plugs on the recommended intervals is a cheap way to make the expensive spark plug wires and expensive electronics last longer. Clean, gapped, and sharp-cornered spark-plug electrodes spark-over at lower voltage, keeping the electrical stress low. Dirty, out-of-adjustment, or eroded electrodes spark over at significantly higher voltage (<4 kV is typical for new parts, worn parts can go double or triple that before the plug fires).
Dielectric grease is fine for keeping water out as long as you avoid the electrical contacts. Grease will not cure a carbon track. Cleaning might help, but if the tracks are burned in, all-new parts are the best way to go.
#32
That's exactly what I saw. It was wreaking havoc on my electrical system and causing the Xmas light effect with the dash warning lights and buzzers. Not only did it fix the xmas light problem I picked up some extra ponies from the seat of the pants dyno. She runs absolutely perfect now.
#33
cpas and sparks.
before you go spending money on wires, i think your problem is more linked to poor connection at the cap.
the best way to trouble shoot is to get car to run on 1 circuit with a solid idle.
seeing you found the culprit cap i would take that cap off the car and clean the residue off (clear coating from factory ) and try again, this should fix your problem. the coating is hard to see but its there. your wasting money buying a set of wire without doing this first. I would really like to know if the car runs on this arcing circuit alone. can you confirm?
your getting the arcing at the coil because of the poor connections at the cap and its leaking back to the coil.
clean the cap **** with scotch brite and alcohol . if you have a ohm meter confirm by checking continuity on the surface of each tit before you clean to prove my point.
dont waste money on wires yet.
the best way to trouble shoot is to get car to run on 1 circuit with a solid idle.
seeing you found the culprit cap i would take that cap off the car and clean the residue off (clear coating from factory ) and try again, this should fix your problem. the coating is hard to see but its there. your wasting money buying a set of wire without doing this first. I would really like to know if the car runs on this arcing circuit alone. can you confirm?
your getting the arcing at the coil because of the poor connections at the cap and its leaking back to the coil.
clean the cap **** with scotch brite and alcohol . if you have a ohm meter confirm by checking continuity on the surface of each tit before you clean to prove my point.
dont waste money on wires yet.
#36
cheers dutchcrunch (and others) - will give one cap a good clean tomorrow (and leave the one alone) to see if I spot a difference.
Towards the end of last year I gave the leads a good clean to make sure the crud / deposits on the outer weren't helping the sparks take a different route. At the time it seemed to make a difference.
(meanwhile the OPC is on hand to order a half-set of ignition wires )
Lee
Towards the end of last year I gave the leads a good clean to make sure the crud / deposits on the outer weren't helping the sparks take a different route. At the time it seemed to make a difference.
(meanwhile the OPC is on hand to order a half-set of ignition wires )
Lee
#37
In regards to Xmas tree effect...do you mean all the lights on the dashboard light up?
Because I've had that happen and it turned out to be my driver floor mat was sliding forward and applying just enough pressure on my brake pedal to register a brake issue and my dashboard lit up like a Christmas tree. Being mindful of my floormat took care of this problem!
That's not to say your Xmas tree problem isn't related to your arcing problem, but thought I'd throw it out there.
Good luck!
Because I've had that happen and it turned out to be my driver floor mat was sliding forward and applying just enough pressure on my brake pedal to register a brake issue and my dashboard lit up like a Christmas tree. Being mindful of my floormat took care of this problem!
That's not to say your Xmas tree problem isn't related to your arcing problem, but thought I'd throw it out there.
Good luck!
#39
Clean, gapped, and sharp-cornered spark-plug electrodes spark-over at lower voltage, keeping the electrical stress low. Dirty, out-of-adjustment, or eroded electrodes spark over at significantly higher voltage (<4 kV is typical for new parts, worn parts can go double or triple that before the plug fires).
I suspect worn out plugs are the root cause. Modern ign systems will crank up the voltage as the plugs wear eventually the wires or something else leaks .years ago the plugs would stop firing first but not today.
I suspect worn out plugs are the root cause. Modern ign systems will crank up the voltage as the plugs wear eventually the wires or something else leaks .years ago the plugs would stop firing first but not today.
#40
If anyone needs a new, never installed set of Bosch plug wires PM me, I will give you a deal. US only, unless you're willing to cover the crazy cost of shipping them to Canada or Europe.
John
John
#41
"They are the Brazilian Bosch ones."
If the silver ones, that's one of your problems, i.e. maybe not now but later.
All have been 'pulled' from some of the major parts distributors because of the high failure rate.
If the silver ones, that's one of your problems, i.e. maybe not now but later.
All have been 'pulled' from some of the major parts distributors because of the high failure rate.
#42
Thanks for the tip on the plugs - sadly, they were replaced last year.
Just had the prices through from my OPC for the leads ... oh dear about $72 each (45GBP) - will need to find a different route to getting them.
Cheers John for your leads off - I didn't know Bosch did a set - I've only looked at the BERU ones. I might be very interested - need to find out shipping costs, as I'm from the land of taxes (UK). Will let you know.
Just had the prices through from my OPC for the leads ... oh dear about $72 each (45GBP) - will need to find a different route to getting them.
Cheers John for your leads off - I didn't know Bosch did a set - I've only looked at the BERU ones. I might be very interested - need to find out shipping costs, as I'm from the land of taxes (UK). Will let you know.