25% off Stage8 locking CV bolts
Rennlist Member
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 4,934
Likes: 483
From: fairfield, CT
There is another type out there. Can't remember who makes them. But they are very cool.
Total pain in the *** to put on or take off.
Fwiw...there has never been a thread as far as i can remember, where the complaint was "my axle bolts backed out and my axle fell to the ground"...at least I've never heard of a properly torqued set of axle bolts backing out.
If i were racing the car- is probably consider this type of product. Just not worth it for the street.
If i can find the link to the ones i was looking at I'll come back and post the link.
Now- if you have a C4 and want to use the m10 bolts from a c2, you swap the axle flanges in the trans from a C4 widebody, and then use the larger cv joint on the inner side of your axle. This would only be necessary if you were adding much more hp and torque. We are doing this on the Peter Dawe 3.9 liter build (which should be on a 4 wheel dyno in the next month or two).
Total pain in the *** to put on or take off.
Fwiw...there has never been a thread as far as i can remember, where the complaint was "my axle bolts backed out and my axle fell to the ground"...at least I've never heard of a properly torqued set of axle bolts backing out.
If i were racing the car- is probably consider this type of product. Just not worth it for the street.
If i can find the link to the ones i was looking at I'll come back and post the link.
Now- if you have a C4 and want to use the m10 bolts from a c2, you swap the axle flanges in the trans from a C4 widebody, and then use the larger cv joint on the inner side of your axle. This would only be necessary if you were adding much more hp and torque. We are doing this on the Peter Dawe 3.9 liter build (which should be on a 4 wheel dyno in the next month or two).
Rennlist Member
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 1,241
Likes: 27
From: Indianapolis, IN
I was hoping you would chime in on this thread, Goughary, given your experience. There has been at least one thread on here about an axle coming loose, and the car (of course) wouldn't move. My son was driving the car, and as he took off from a stop light, it just stopped and he couldn't get it to move. For some reason, this was one of my first thoughts, after thinking the trans/diff has been destroyed. Sure enough, this is what he found. I had all four axles out for new boots, and distinctly remember using a torque wrench. But, I have to assume and take the blame for apparently not torquing the left rear axle. The only other caution and reference I have seen is the shop manual stating to keep the surface under the plates clean of grease, and to use a bit of copper antiseize Optimoly on the bolt threads. I will be checking the other joints today. The car had been driven on the track for one weekend and a few hundred miles of highway driving, prior to this event..
Note: to get the car into the garage, I locked the differentials on the console and was able to drive it in slowly.
Note: to get the car into the garage, I locked the differentials on the console and was able to drive it in slowly.
Rennlist Member
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 4,934
Likes: 483
From: fairfield, CT
I stand corrected...
Well...in that case if it's a concern- check out the 968 forum- there is an article there on the stage 8 bolts and some concerns abt fiddliness.
One of the comments was to use norlock washers you can buy at McMaster...
There are other options as well. 12pt bolt heads that are drilled for safety wire etc...
For me- i think with proper assembly and proper torque, the oem setup and torque should be perfectly fine on a street car. I usually swap the bolts for new when i do the job, as the bolts tend to get sticky with corrosion over time and rounding one out trying to get them off is a total pita...
Well...in that case if it's a concern- check out the 968 forum- there is an article there on the stage 8 bolts and some concerns abt fiddliness.
One of the comments was to use norlock washers you can buy at McMaster...
There are other options as well. 12pt bolt heads that are drilled for safety wire etc...
For me- i think with proper assembly and proper torque, the oem setup and torque should be perfectly fine on a street car. I usually swap the bolts for new when i do the job, as the bolts tend to get sticky with corrosion over time and rounding one out trying to get them off is a total pita...
Rennlist Member
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 1,241
Likes: 27
From: Indianapolis, IN
Yes, I used new bolts. And ordered new bolts to replace the ones that came loose. Thanks for feedback. I agree that the stage 8 bolts and retainers look fiddly and worthy of a flurry of bad words. I will look into the norlock washers. I admit that I'm going to be nervous about these things now.
