Wachuko

Has anyone been able to find just the bushings for 964-424-011-01 and 928-424-005-01 (#15 and #16 in the diagram)?? Both bushings are gone in my car...

I need to call Sunset in case they have the part for less... Pelican Parts has it for US$130.50 and US$88.00 and my car need both ends...





What the one in my car looks like...







Car is still stuck in second... so much for an easy fix.

Wachuko

Well... like I said, it looks like it is a bit more complicated than just the shift linkage...

The shifting shaft is hard to move...



I was able to pull it out with the help of a pry bar... so it is now in neutral, but that shaft should be easy to move...

Clutch disengages fine... but I can't move that shifting shaft with my hands...

Guys, any thoughts??

Fig 1.


Fig 2.

Wachuko

I am going to work with the engine carrier to see if I can break something else...

crg53

Hi Jaime, you can replace both ends of the shift rod with HEIM JOINTS, then remove the ball at the end of the gearshift lever (part #1 ) and also the ball on part #24, then fasten the rod with bolts through the heim joints. VOILA! you have a new setup for a fraction of the cost.

Wachuko

You welded one of the ends in place? I can see doing that easily on one side, but the other side does not have a bolted end...

Great idea if I can make it work

slips2

I just replaced both shift linkage ball cup bushings in my '90 964, part #928-116-145-03, about $12 each from Pelican. Mine looked similar to yours, as if whatever lube was originally used degraded the bushing material and turned it into a light-brown custard. I used a dab of non-petroleum based, synthetic grease inside each bushing cup for lube, which should not attack the bushing material.

Wachuko

THANK YOU!!! Order placed.

altarchsa

What a great idea!

I think the heim joint would be better than the original in function, and it shouldn't be that hard to drill out those ball fittings.

I've been in there twice. The first time I just "fabricated" a bushing out of nylon to fit down into the housing that holds the front bushing. I used a tie wrap just to make sure it didn't completely separate, just in case it failed. It held up and worked fine until recently, when one of our generous Rennlist friends gave me the entire linkage for free. It had a brand new front bushing attached, and I used it to replace my home made fix. BTW, I have the linkage if anyone needs parts.

Wachuco, it looks like the seal on the trans at the linkage is missing. Did you remove it to try to free up the shaft? If not, and it has been missing for a while, you may have gotten some corrosion in there that tightened things up. Tried and true WD40???

altarchsa

BTW Wachuco, I believe I have part 15 , but I don't think the bushing is any good.

Wachuko

I think the seal is still there... the seal is the green ring you see in the photo around the shaft.

I hope just WD40 fixes that... I am worried it could be something worse like a synchro or something stuck further in...

crg53

You will need to cut one end off, and weld on a HD nut, same thread as the heim joint.
This is not my invention, found it here on Rennlist, but looks like a great way to fix it.

Wachuko

Good to know. I ended ordering the bushings.

What worries me now is the shifting shaft... hope is as easy as WD-40 to get it to loosen up... I can't afford transmission work at this time, and not something I know how to work with anyway, so I will have to pay a shop for this.

crg53

Jaime, instead of WD40 (water displacent #40) which is a temporary fix at best, try a good lubricant, there are many out there; I like a product called INOX, no affiliation, but it is by far the best stuff around, look up the distibutor list and find the Florida dealer.

Wachuko

Looks like the local boat dealer and Harley Davidson dealer has them. Will get some tomorrow. Thank you.

AOW162435

Jamie,
Looks like you've got the 928 part number for the inserts - that's certainly the most economical route.

I made a similar setup to what Steen posted, and have used it for a few years with fantastic results. The shift action immediately became crisper and more "mechanical". I paired my creation with a factory RS shift rod - #12 in your shifter diagram.

Here are a few pics of my creation:



















RS shift rod:




Andreas