My first oil change
#1
My first oil change
I am going to take the large step and attempt my first oil change. I have searched through all the threads on how to change my car's oil. I am going to use the DIY from wsybert, which is excellent btw. I just have one question. Do I need to jack the car up? I didn't see it mentioned. Again, any help is greatly appreciated.
#2
Rennlist Member
You need to get the drain bucket under the engine and get the oil drain plug out, yes so unless you have access to a pit, you will need the car elevated.
Good luck.
Good luck.
#3
Rennlist Member
Rhino Ramps work well.
If the car has stock suspension heights you might need to lay down 12-18" or so of 2x8 wood as "pre-ramps".
When I went from stock suspension to Bilstein HDs and H&R Greens on '90 C2 the nose came down just enough to change the angle of the rear fascia so I no longer needed the wood sections to back onto the ramps.
If the car has stock suspension heights you might need to lay down 12-18" or so of 2x8 wood as "pre-ramps".
When I went from stock suspension to Bilstein HDs and H&R Greens on '90 C2 the nose came down just enough to change the angle of the rear fascia so I no longer needed the wood sections to back onto the ramps.
#4
Three Wheelin'
Rhino Ramps work well.
If the car has stock suspension heights you might need to lay down 12-18" or so of 2x8 wood as "pre-ramps".
When I went from stock suspension to Bilstein HDs and H&R Greens on '90 C2 the nose came down just enough to change the angle of the rear fascia so I no longer needed the wood sections to back onto the ramps.
If the car has stock suspension heights you might need to lay down 12-18" or so of 2x8 wood as "pre-ramps".
When I went from stock suspension to Bilstein HDs and H&R Greens on '90 C2 the nose came down just enough to change the angle of the rear fascia so I no longer needed the wood sections to back onto the ramps.
Then I quickly returned the undertray to its natural position before the neighbors saw it.
#6
I'm having a problem getting the oil drain plug by the right rear wheel well off. I'm using a 15mm ratchet, which fits perfectly, however the plug won't budge. Has anyone experienced this?
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#10
Well, I tried the PB Blast, tapping on the bolt, and using a breaker bar. I think I've pretty much stripped the bolt. Has anyone ever dealt with an almost stripped drain plug before?
#11
Instructor
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: West Marin CA.
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I should have mentioned that you should let it soak in PB blaster.. Anyways, it sounds like its frozen past the ability of PB blaster. I had an O2 sensor stuck on my cat before and it eventually came out by filing down the stripped edges and using a pipe wrench.. Somebody should chime in before you do this... because a pipe wrench should be close to your last resort.. Good luck, frozen bolts/nuts are really frustrating..
#13
Unfortunately it's the the plug just before the passenger's side rear wheel. I'm just contemplating what my next move should be. The plug is not completely stripped, but it's just about there. I sprayed PB Blast on it, and maybe I will attack it in the morning. I'm just preparing for the worst case scenario.