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My first oil change

 
Old 05-19-2010, 09:32 PM
  #16  
PNine64
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Originally Posted by augsburg911 View Post
Unfortunately it's the the plug just before the passenger's side rear wheel. I'm just contemplating what my next move should be. The plug is not completely stripped, but it's just about there. I sprayed PB Blast on it, and maybe I will attack it in the morning. I'm just preparing for the worst case scenario.
I fought a stripped lower allen bolt on the rear caliper a few weeks ago. Your bolt is easy to get to so be thankful (not intending to be a jerk).

You are going to want to replace the bolt either eay at this point so it doesn't need too look pretty when you get it out. The longer you let the PB sit the better it will work. When it comes time, a pair of vice grips or a pipe wrench might/should work. If you want to spend a couple bucks, Sears has a tool/socket made for your occassion.
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Old 05-19-2010, 09:57 PM
  #17  
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Sounds like maybe whoever worked on it previously might have forgotten the crush washer.
Make sure you have a supply of those on hand for when you're putting the plug back in (and this bit of trouble is behind you!).
I had this the first time on mine, too. It's in a perfect place to get sprayed with road crap and corrode. And it's nerve-wracking to start really pulling on it, because it doesn't feel like the sturdiest mounting in the world.
You'll get it, with a combo of tugging, sharp tapping and PB Blaster.
If it's really rounded, I had a similar situation on a different car, and I went to the local "World O' Tools" place and bought a Channelock with arched jaws and sharp teeth. It got a good bite around the dia. of the plug and did the job.
I've been told a muffler shop can tack a piece of square stock onto the end of the gnarled plug, and you can turn that. Never tried it though.
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Old 05-19-2010, 09:58 PM
  #18  
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Oh...double check that you are turning the correct direction. I know...obvious.
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Old 05-19-2010, 10:32 PM
  #19  
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Also did you drain the block yet? If not i would let the motor heat up again. Always heard on these you want the oil to be warm because it open the thermostat and more oil will come out.
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Old 05-19-2010, 10:52 PM
  #20  
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I will definitely be replacing the drain plug (Part #944-107-197-01-M260). What is everyone's consensus for the best tool to get the stripped drain plug out. PNine64 you recommend possibly a tool from Sears, which I will look into. Bearclaw, I will also try using a pair of Channelocks. Wellcraft, every time I'm about to take off the drain plug, I've brought the oil temp up to the 9 o'clock position. Thanks again for everyone's help! Any additional thoughts are greatly welcomed.
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Old 05-19-2010, 10:58 PM
  #21  
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They make sockets that have more edges from sears that grip better.. Just go to the one on jericho and ask the tool guy he will point you in the right direction.

I bet though that bolt will be loose tomorrow after all that pb blaster.. Also spray it again before you go to bed...
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Old 05-19-2010, 11:16 PM
  #22  
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Wellcraft, I'm going to checkout Sears tomorrow. I think I might pickup the "Gator Grip," http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1...ears_productpg. Has anyone ever used this before? Or this one, http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1...2166000P?mv=rr ? I will advise tomorrow if they are successful.
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Old 05-20-2010, 12:23 PM
  #23  
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Any luck today?

I think the 2nd. option at Sears looks more promising. I haven't had much luck with those "Gripper" sockets.

I bought these "Nutbuster" Channellocks (gotta love that name!) and they worked.
If you have rounded the head but it's not tapered, that's better. If it has tapered, that makes it a worse problem.
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Old 05-20-2010, 02:28 PM
  #24  
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I agree on the second option. I looked at them a few weeks back and thought it looked pretty decent. I don't recall seeing the first one.
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Old 05-20-2010, 03:23 PM
  #25  
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The best way to loosen that plug is to "SHOCK" it. Since you have to replace it anyway I would take a short punch put it dead centre of the hex and give it a few good taps with a heavy hammer, (you will be hitting straight up) then try to turn it. If that does not work take a sharp chisel, place it on the hex and hit it in a clockwise direction, when you have a bit of a groove from the chisel, dull the edge of the chisel, put it back in the groove and hit it again in the same direction. You can also apply some heat at the same time.
This should get it loose.

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Old 05-20-2010, 04:01 PM
  #26  
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I bought the Bolt-Buster, and the Gator-Grip, neither worked. I'm very frustrated and close to throwing in the towel. I will give the Channellocks a try. My father in-law is also going to lend me these, http://www.turbosocket.com/index.html. Hopefully one of them works. I'll report back with my results, good or bad.
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Old 05-20-2010, 05:14 PM
  #27  
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Do you have access to an impact wrench? If the hex head isn't completely destroyed, you might still be able to get an impact socket to grip it and break it free. If the hex head is mangled beyond hope, you could have someone weld a new hex nut onto the top of the damaged head and then put the impact wrench to work on the hex nut.
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Old 05-20-2010, 05:30 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by augsburg911 View Post
I bought the Bolt-Buster, and the Gator-Grip, neither worked. I'm very frustrated and close to throwing in the towel. I will give the Channellocks a try. My father in-law is also going to lend me these, http://www.turbosocket.com/index.html. Hopefully one of them works. I'll report back with my results, good or bad.
Sorry for saying this, but stop F...ing around and buying all those useless tools
If you follow the methods I posted earlier, you WILL get that plug out.
And I should add, take the "Shark Fin" off for better access.

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Old 05-20-2010, 05:34 PM
  #29  
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I have to agree with crg53, I have won over alot of bolts and drums brakes by hitting them over with a heavy hammer.. This breaks the corrosion enough to remove it in most cases.
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Old 05-20-2010, 05:49 PM
  #30  
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I'm surprised you are having this much difficulty - it really shouldn't be all that tough.

I would try removing the fin, carefully applying heat from a small source such as a butane torch, and then have a go with a pair of vice-grips or channel locks. Cold chisel would also work - had to do this to the seat hardware some time ago. Was tough, but worked.

Did you try hitting it with a hammer as suggested earlier? I struggled with the bumper bolts for DAYS and what ended up working best was a good smack directly upward with a 2lb mallet.

Also, as stupid as it sounds - triple check you are turning this the correct way. While it is relatively exposed to road grime, the drain plug also gets removed and replaced fairly frequently, and shouldn't be particularly hard to remove.
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