Dwane

Went to a race shop.(Schroth distributor)
After looking at my options, we will be mounting them to the floor. Guys I need pics of how to get around wiring on driver and passenger side floor.
Any tips would be appreciated.
Dwane

Marc Shaw

Driver's side:



Passenger side:






Marc

ThomasC2

Marc, do you just have the an FIA approved washer/bolt on the underside or is it also welded to the floor?

Dwane, I'll post some pics tonight. I put some effort in to this to have a clean look as in the cup cars so I managed to get rid of the sheet metal and re-routed some cables.

Thomas

DWS964

My installation is just like Marc's - except that I have a single eyebolt for my 5pt harness. I cut a hole out of the sheet metal "tray" that the dme bolts to, just behind the dme; and inserted an eyebolt into the floor. For me, this put the eyebolt directly under the slot in my Recaro seat.
On the passenger side, I recall that there is something else in the way (I have already removed the power amp for the audio, but I thought there was something else) I will be reinstalling my Recaro's in a couple days, and I can take some pics.

Dwane, do you have some pictures of your DAS roll bar installation? I hope that it all turned out well. My DAS bar should arrive in a few days.

Bill Verburg

A little more work to do it this way

Marc Shaw

All Schroth/FIA approved hardware.



Marc

Matt Lane

Hi Dwane, hang in there - the persistence will pay off!

Just out of curiosity, why did you choose to drill the floor vs. buying or fabricating a sub bar a la GT3?

Best,

Matt

Dwane

I do not have pictures.
I think the trick was to really force it into place. Keep reminding yourself it won't go in without a fight. Maybe have a JD. That's a great drink to have before a fight.
If you have any questions I can PM you my number.
Did you order a new bar?
If not, Did you order new hardware?
Do not let the seat belts retract.(although it wasn't really hard to fix)
Dwane

Dwane

Bill, In what way was it"A little more work to do it this way"?
I love the clean look you achieved. I will probably copy your setup as long as it isn't a 8 hour job.
As you can see I'm still recovering from the DAS install.
thank you for your help
Dwane

Dwane

Marc these are the reinforcement plates that I got.
Did you remove the aluminum plates to make the holes in them?
How hard was it to move the wiring around?
I love the clean look of the wiring placement.
What did you do about the amp wiring?
thanks for your help
Dwane

Dwane

Hey Matt, When we talk I'll let you know what his thoughts were on the setup.
Dwane

Matt Lane

Sounds good, no rush. Looking for input before I begin my install later this year.

M

Marc Shaw

I got those plates too but used the round plates that look like large washers from Schroth instead.

It was not hard to move the wiring - just time consuming to make it look neat and to make room for the TraqMate which I just started wiring in the last picture.

I did not have an amp under the seat.

Let me know if you need other pictures - I took a ton.

Marc

ThomasC2

OK, here are som pics of what I just did a couple of weeks ago. I put some effort in trying to get it as clean/cup looking as possible. Therefore I also copied the DME position from the cup cars. I had to mount it upside down though compared to the cup cars becuase the connector is flipped 180 degress on the cup's DME making the cable pointing towards the outside of the car instead inwards and out of the way. But this looks really good. I did a aluminum plate to bolt the DME on to and the plate itself is mounted on rubber mounts using pop-nuts. So it's as close to factory look you can get. Earlier you could by these small parts from Porsche Motorsport but they are now out of stock.

I removed all the sticky old tape from the cable/harness and put on some new soft electrical tape made for protecting the cables. The thick main cable includes some minor cables/connectors that has to be in use so you can't move it around to much without extending some of the cables otherwise you won't reach the matching connectors under the seat. I managed to route the cable around the rear seat mount and now it just rests on floor. The rest of the harness and connectors I hide under the left seat slider(pic 2) where there's some space.

On the passanger side it's the same idea. But here I did a small bracket/plate for the alarm unit. supported by a rubber mount.

All this made it possible to remove both the steel plates under the seats which was 1,4 kilos! So now it's only the drilling left for the seat harness eye-bolts.

Thomas

Bill Verburg

Read the Schroth instructions for sub strap geometry

You have to mark the aluminum plates w/ the seats installed , remove them, drill the aluminum plates, reinstall them, mark the floor(as long as the round holes were properly placed the seats don't need to go back in but it wouldn't hurt to double check), drill the floor, then install the pad eyes, reinstall the seats.



Have POR handy to seal the raw edges.