The resistor on the AT MAF is used to simulate the air-intake temperature sensor that the stock AFM has built-in. It will tweak the fuel and ignition timing but it won't change things enough to stall the engine.

 

the LFW + RS clutch will always bring some issues, in my car once the temp is OK it behaves, but when cold it stalls, so I keep my heel on the throttle just a little bit when stopping.

 

here's a little update for you guys ... you might actually find it amusing ..

i took the MAF out and replaced it with stock ... piece of cake

I then went into replacing the chip (which the fist time around, is a PITA ... That damn top board). As I was wedging it out, it looked as if there was missing pin. I'm thinking to myself, "oh well, perhaps its some kind of aftermarket chip design" .... nope .... looks like the guy that popped in the chip i gave him during my rebuild missed one of the holes and bent back a pin .. derrr ...

all i can do it shake my head, what a CARELESS mistake ...

so i went back, REINSTALLED the MAF, fixed the chip and installed it properly. Fired right up. Touch the throttle, it dies ... try to drive it, its worse .. wtf .. go figure

then it was back to my original plan. Swapped out the MAF for stock box, took out aftermarket chip and replaced with stock . The car stalled out the first time, the DME caught up and learned and now all is pretty much fine. The idle is a little weird (to be expected with cams and LWF), but no stalling!!!

 

well now you know the quality of your mechanics work. I would go thru everything and check. Does it run better on the stock chip?