circo911

I have had so much differing advice on how to deal with blisters on a 964 I wondered if any of you guys have experience, good or bad, on dealing with them. I have been told just to rub down and paint, cut out and lead it (what ever that means) or fill with a special galvernised filler! Any advice would be appreciated.
Cheers
Bill

screamingflat6

Bill ,

Corrosion is the general death of the car, so be prepared to get the job done right first time.
I live on the wirral and have various mates with body shops, but its dear even to me, as what I want is the right first time treatment.
The corrosion can be ground back to strong metal and lead can be melted into the problem area and then worked into the cavity or pitting, this is used a lot on classic cars and was general practise on rolls royce etc.
The guy who would do that sort of work is a craftsman, as most now just want to bog the job up!(filler) or replace the panel.
A small bit of tin worm (corrosion) can grow quite large under the paint, so that 5mm bubble could be a 1" in the end, but the 964 is a strong car and anything can be repaired.
As regards filler with a magical metal compound added, I haven't heard of that before as its usually a form of resins and shrinks and can be seen by most people who know what their looking at, I can see it as it makes the panel look heavy in areas but again new cars have filler in them.
Pm,me and I'll help, but quality costs, the guys I will recommend will be good value and the job will be right.( no personal gain to me)
My own 964 targa is having a full repaint in October as the worm has bitten that in the usual 964 area's but I know what I want and the money spent will bring the car value up, so invest and add value.

Gaz,

tbennett017

Just to be clear: Are you talking about blisters in the paint due to rust? Or are they problems only with the paint?

Rust is pretty awful stuff. It really doesn't stop once it gets started. I am not very well versed in Porsche manufacturing processes, but the rustproofing improved in later cars.

Where on the car are your blisters? Can you provide pics? IMHO, covering up rust will not stop it. You need to treat it or remove it. In the U.S. there is a product called POR15 which can chemically treat rust, making it inert... but you have to prep a LOT, grinding or sanding away any rust you can see first. That, of course, can be a little rough on the paint. :-\

joey bagadonuts

If we're talking rust bubbles, I think John D's Rust Repair 101 post answers a lot of questions and clarifies what you should be looking for.

Snowhead

I recently had both my front a rear panels repaired where they join with the bumpers. I stripped/grinded both areas (blisters) back to bare metal. I then treated the areas with POR Metal Ready and my mate (body repair specialist) lead loaded the areas, primed and then painted.

Where the wing and rear quarter panel faces attached/bolted, I again grinded back to bare metal, treated with POR Metal Ready and POR 15 Paint. I cant tell how successful this will be, but on reading round, lead loading and POR Paint seem to be the way to go. Failing that , its a cut out and weld in new metal job.

I have some pictures if it would help. POR and Lead loading material are availalbe from FROST in the UK http://www.frost.co.uk/. If you google lead loading, there is a short video demonstrating lead loading on an E Type Jag (Sovereign Coach works).

springer3

Do a search. Automotive, marine and industrial rust prevention is well-researched. The materials that the corrosion engineers specify are organic or inorganic coatings with zinc, chromate, or phosphate compounds to inhibit rust. Latex-based "rust busters" are a quick fix. In objective tests, they last only a fraction as long as the as the better methods.

circo911

Some real intersting advice, and plenty to research before I get the job done, but could I ask snowhead if it's not to personel a question what is a fair price per panel for the lead loading?

Megatron-UK

Yep, POR15 is available in the UK... it's good stuff.

wellcraft290

Yeah would love to see a picture. I have one spot on the door panel, but not just sure if cracking in the paint or rust underneath. Is really small and not bumpy. Been meaning to bring it in but really don't want to paint the door because of black and it will be tough to match

Snowhead

Circo, the paint, sundries and lead solder paint cost me approx £100, I did most of the prep myself and my mate did the lead loading and painting, + £20 for 3M Finish - IT.

I was quoted £350 by a local body shop but he couldnt guarantee that the rust would not return, he hadnt heard of lead loading.