Hey Joey!

Well, I actually already had the big reds and all the plumbing. However, seems the EVO upright has a wider collar on the back compared to the 965 upright and so I need to make this bend. I'm gonna get a line bender and slowly make the radius larger tomorrow.

 

Gotcha.

 

These are from the workshop manual,

main hub torque (large 21mm nut) - 340 ftlb
lower ball joint to upright torque - 55 ftlb
upper "C" bracket to upright torque - Not sure what this one is...
tie rod end to upright torque - 55 ftlb
strut to upright torque (upper and lower) - Upper 88 ftlb, Lower 147 ftlb
brake caliper to upright torque - 63 ftlb

See PM...

 

Arghhhhh!

I knew it wasn't going to be that easy! Got the calipers in and I slipped in the 993 pads....... there's a fitment issue!

I compared the pads I took out with the pads I'm replacing. First of all, the old pad # is Textar 965 351 930 03. Seems to be a Turbo pad, but when I compared the old 965 pad to the new 993 pad, the 993 pad is taller, ie, the material on the 993 pad is 1/4 inch taller than the 965 pad. When I slip the 993 pad into the caliper, it goes in easy and sits on its appropriate surface, but that 1/4 inch material sticks out away from the outermost rotor surface by 1/4 inch. Seems my calipers need to allow the 993 pad to go deeper, toward the center of the hub.

So, maybe I don't have big reds?? I looked for a part number on the caliper but can find one that starts with a 964 or 965 or 928 or 993....

Anybody have any info in any of this...... What do I have? What's going on?

 

964 3.3T and 964RS use the same front pad as n/a 993 this pad is also used in the back of 993RS & TT, these pads are roughly 132x48x11mm and can be used w/ either a 304 or 322x32mm rotor
964 3.6T use the same pad as 993RS/tt, this is the Big Red(whatever the color) and yes it is ~10mm taller than the other similar caliper, these pads are roughly 132x58x11 these need a 322x32mm rotor

 

thanks, Bill. So, since i'm going to get real "big reds", can I use my current front calipers and rotors for the rear of my car? This is essentially the 993tt complete setup, right?

 

Did some searching. I see I cannot use the front calipers for the rear as the mounting scheme is very different. Think I'll clean my front calipers and sell them to help offset costs.


Wow, this was more than just an easy swap over in my case!

 

there are a # of things wrong w/ using front calipers in back
1) they want a wider rotor, in your case 32mm front 28mm back
2) they want a bigger rotor, 322 front 299 back for yours
3) the mounts are different but there are ways around that
4) the front pistons are just too da** big

you already have 30/34 rears pistons on 299x28 mm rotors in back and w/ the big reds in front that is fine

993RS and tt used a bigger rotor in back 322x28 w/ calipers that use the same pads that you originally had in front but w/ 28/28 pistons for the tt and 30/36 for the RS

AFAIK there is no easy way to us the bigger 993RS/tt rotors and calipers on an 964, w/o giving up the parking brake. Geoffrey used the RS rear calipers on his w/ Alcon 322x28 rotors(I think) and custom hats. But had to give up the parking brake to do so. He is also using n/b trailing arms

 

Might be misunderstanding you but the 94 turbo also uses the m14x 1.5 x 55 bolts vs the 3.3 which uses the M12 x 1.25 x 90 part numbers 999.072.006.09 and 900.067.310.09 respectively.

When ordering front aftermarket struts for the 94 turbo you need to use the 993 part number in many cases.

 

Well, got my "real" big reds calipers, I installed the caliper and slipped the brake pads uneventfully. The old 3.3T brake pads take a different style brake sensor (used to inform the driver of worn out pads), So I will need to order a pair for the 993TT. I took the opportunity to install new flexible brake line while I was in there. Next, I threaded the EVO tie rod into the steering rack. This is a little tricky because as you thread in the inner end to the rack, the outer end threads out. Best thing to do is thread the outer end (nearest the upright) all the way in, then swing the whole rotor assembly in and approximate the inner end into the rack assembly. Now, as you screw in the inner end you will be in the middle of the threads at both ends, giving you room for adjustment one way or the other.

So far, the EVO tie rods are fitting properly. There appears to be not fitment issues.

Now that I've completed the passenger side, I'm going to start on the driver side. I expect this to go much faster as I've got everything I need now.

Quick question: the caster cam...... should the cam be installed inward toward the center of the car or outward, away from the center. Anybody know??

 

Not sure if this helps but here's how I ended up after replacing passenger's side ball joint. Basically, the black markings align the new piece to where the old ball joint was positioned. The car went in for a proper alignment afterwards.

 

Gracias, Joey... and Happy Cinco De Mayo.....

Jaime

 

 

Got the whole driver side out today. I attempted to take out the inner CV joint in one piece (I didn't want a repeat of last time), but damn thing just came apart. I cleaned all the steel ***** and such, but this time it only took me about 7 minutes to put it together. Go figure!

Here's the secret if you are doing this project: first, I'll describe each piece so we're on the same page. There are 4 parts to the joint. 1. Casing (big fat meaty alloy donut with diagonal cut-outs for the steel ***** 2. Steel *****. 3. Cage. 4. inner race (another fat, meaty smaller alloy donut with diagonal cut-outs for the steel *****.

So, get the casing. Notice there are two lines on the outside perimeter, and these lines are oriented such that the lines are outboard relative to the shaft. Rest the casing on a flat surface such that these lines are closer to the surface where it rests. Now, take the cage and place it inside the casing (don't think there's a difference between an up side and a down side). Now, get the inner race and place it inside the cage. (attention: The inner race has a smooth flat side, and a bordered side which contacts the retaining circlip....you want to place this race with the border side down, so your are looking at the smooth surface).......

Now, here's the tricky part: you have to pick up all three pieces (casing, cage, inner race) and slide/lift the cage up toward you, keeping the casing secured, and you also have to lift the inner race up toward you such that you telescoping all three pieces, or like making a pyramid with these pieces (attention: you must get the right orientation of the casing relative to the inner race. There is a photo on the 964 DIY posted by JasonAndreas "Addendum to CV Joint disassembly tips please" which shows this relationship. This is critical!). Now, you need to side load the steel *****, being ever so careful not to slide the cage higher than the casing, or the inner race higher than the cage. Push a steel ball into the side opening, then load another directly across, then another until you have all ***** barely wanting to slide in. Now you gently push the inner race in and the cage too. You have to push it level otherwise it will come apart. Pack it with grease and you're done.

 

I didn't think that anyone was going to have more fun than I did, but yours has been even more of a pain in the ***. Good luck, hopefully it is done soon.