ttAmerica RoadsterAWD

Well, got the inner CV joint disassembled and cleaned. This was relatively easy. The outer CV joint, well, that's another story. I could not see how to disassemble it, so I took brake clean and cleaned out all that gunky grease. Then I discovered a circlip hidden behind the grease. Its readily accessible, but a real pain in the **** to expand. It looks like this circlip has to be expanded so its internal diameter gets bigger. It looks like it has to be held open (very hard to do) while at the same time pull or gently tap the assembly off the drive shaft. Well, I'm not going anywhere anytime soon. Been trying to hold it open while my son uses a hammer and a small block of wood to smack it out. So far, no dice. Will need to think of something tomorrow. Maybe there is something else i'm missing???

any body know??

ttAmerica RoadsterAWD

Had a house guest for a week. I didn't have time to work on my project, But today I went right to my project as soon as I got back from the airport.

Spent 6 whole hours trying to re-assemble the stupid inner CV joint. God, what a pain in the asp!!!!! Sure, no problem disassembling this joint, but pushing it all together was a task. All the meticulous cleaning of the races and steel ***** was in vane as my efforts to re-assemble resulted in popping steel ***** off the bench onto the floor, grease everywhere, Argh.......I will not ever undo a CV joint again. As far as the outer joint, well I was not able to take it apart and thank god cause if I did it would have been another 6 hours to re-assemble!! From now on, I take as much brake kleen as I need and spray the hell out of the entire joint without disassembling it, wash with acetone and pack with grease and life goes on!!

Well, my back hurts, my finger tips are sore and pulsating with pain. I'm going to sleep!

ttAmerica RoadsterAWD

I'm Stuck. I am reading re-assembly of parts and there are many contact points where Porsche call for Optimoly anti-seize (copper compound). But, thats for iron-to-iron parts. I'm going iron to Aluminum. I read somewhere its not a good idea to use copper lube on dissimilar metals due to corrosion of some sort. Anybody know what I need to do, say, when I'm screwing the front stabilizer "C" bracket *into* the aluminum upright? Should it just go dry (iron ball joint thread into aluminum), or should I place a particular compound on the thread??

Note: The stock iron upright has a nut behind this ball joint and holds the ball joint in place..... the evo upright does not have this setup, this same ball joint is screwed into the aluminum.

anyone??? Bueller, buelller, anyone??....

ps. I found out I need to use the 993 ball joint, not the original 964/965. The EVO upright has a slightly narrower cone compared to the 964/965.. FYI

ttAmerica RoadsterAWD

Ok, so just got back from San Diego, did spring break with kids. Now, on to my install:

I received the strut lower bolt which is different (bigger) than my previous 965/965 bolt. I also ordered and received the associated nuts for a 993 which come as a single assembly plate with the nuts fixed on the plate. Well, turns out my old upper bolts do not fit the new nut. The 993 upper bolt/nut assembly has a coarse thread pattern, my old upper bolt is a fine pattern. So, just ordered the upper bolt for a 993

As for the above mentioned copper lube, I just went to NAPA and got what they had....life goes on..

ttAmerica RoadsterAWD

Update:

Well I received the upper bolts and these screwed right in. A little tight, but they went in. I thought the worse was behind me, ........... I was wrong. Very wrong!

On my project, the EVO (evil) upright has effectively pushed the calipers out, away from the center of the car by a good 5mm. Now, my brake disc will not center, and, in fact, the inside half of the caliper body rubs against disc! I kept thinking that it was just an adjustment problem, only 5mm.... I should be able to fix this. However, it's undeniable the caliper bolts right up to the EVO upright and thats that!

Anybody know if there are 5mm spacers I can use on the hub to move the disc out by 5mm?? Its either this, or I need to buy 993tt calipers and 993tt disc......ouch!!!!

ttAmerica RoadsterAWD

Just scaned the PET. Looks like the 965T (3.6L) with the big reds calipers are the same as used on the 993TT. If this is so, then maybe I just need 993TT discs?

Can somebody confirm that a change to the 993tt disc is needed when doing the EVO upright upgrade??

thanks

DAVISRILEY

I can't confirm on the evo's, but I know on mine, with the plain 993 knuckles, it did take the 993tt rotors. Good luck.

Bill Verburg

when ever either of the 993 uprights are used(ie 993 or 993RS) you then need to use 993 rotors.

If you are using the 993tt 2 piece 322x32 rotors then use either the 993 Big Red calipers or 964RS big but not quite as big as Big Red calipers

ttAmerica RoadsterAWD

Whew!! Thanks, guys. I get so anxious that this mod will not fit after all.

Any words of wisdom here? Should I just go stock two-piece 993tt discs, or floating with aluminum hats?

thanks.

joey bagadonuts

Stock 993tt rotors are fine unless you're looking for something different. That's what I use on my race car and, at least, you'll know that they'll fit.

Hang in there! Almost home.

Bill Verburg

Unless this is a pure or mostly race car I'd avoid floaters

ttAmerica RoadsterAWD

Just ordered stock 993tt rotors and textar pads. Should get them in a few days.... stay tuned.

ttAmerica RoadsterAWD

Ok, got my 993tt rotors and pads (went with textar as it was recommended the most in the 993tt section).

Trial fitted the rotors and calipers. Looks like a good go! The only thing I need are Torque specifications for the various bolts/nuts for a 993tt:

main hub torque (large 21mm nut)
lower ball joint to upright torque
upper "C" bracket to upright torque
tie rod end to upright torque
strut to upright torque (upper and lower)
brake caliper to upright torque


I've already left similar message in the 993tt site, but If anyone here knows the values I'd appreciate any help.

ttAmerica RoadsterAWD

Ok, got the rotor in, the calipers in, had a hard time trying to torque the various nuts to spec. Not enough room to swing my torque wrench. the easiest to torque to specs were the strut bolts. I just guesstimated and erred on the tight side..... oh well, life goes on....

The heat tin barrier needed a little massage on the bottom so it wouldn't scrape the rotor. Just pushed it in with my thumb. No problem here.

The only problem now is the hard brake line going from the connector at the strut to the caliper now needs to have a larger diameter. Don't want to kink anything, so will need to think of how to approach this. Darn line is tough.

Any tips? Anybody??

joey bagadonuts

Hey Jaime,

I'd recomend that you give Steve Weiner of Rennsport Systems a call. I have his Big Brake kit on my car (installed by previous owner). A bent adapter line or short line would be needed for these conversions, so perhaps he has some on hand or can refer you to a source.

http://www.rennsportsystems.com/1-sf.html