Left Stranded!
03-19-2010, 09:15 PM
#31
Drifting
Thread Starter
Wow. I'd have never thought it would be that simple. Thanks for the input!
I can certainly perform that operation.
I was thinking welding and $$ and delays.
So, "acid core solder" . . . is that special? I have pipe sweating solder right here in the house. Is that the same stuff; perhaps? I suppose I should just go look at the label . . . :-)
Dave
I can certainly perform that operation.
I was thinking welding and $$ and delays.
So, "acid core solder" . . . is that special? I have pipe sweating solder right here in the house. Is that the same stuff; perhaps? I suppose I should just go look at the label . . . :-)
Dave
03-19-2010, 11:58 PM
#33
Burning Brakes
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Dear Dfinnegan
It has to be acid core, the stuff for pipes, if it's a new spool and environmentally friendly, it has little to no lead because of the health reasons with lead. They replaced the lead with tin. Do a test spot first, just in case it's some type of exotic metal that the lead doesn't stick to. It's all in the prep work and how clean you get it. Scratch out the pit holes with an xacto knife so the metal is shiny inside. I've had to brush on flux first in some cases where the metal was galvanized to get the lead solder to stick. Remember you heat the tank and let it melt the solder. Don't melt the solder with the torch. If you're not comfortable doing it yourself you maybe able to find a radiator build/repair shop that still does this kind of work for a minmal cost. I've used epoxy in the past with good results but the epoxy I used was made by a company called Hysol and I havn't been able to find it anymore, they may have gone out of buisness, but they had a product that wasn't affected by oil or gas. I found products like JB Weld tend to soften over the years when exposed to petroleum products.
Bill
It has to be acid core, the stuff for pipes, if it's a new spool and environmentally friendly, it has little to no lead because of the health reasons with lead. They replaced the lead with tin. Do a test spot first, just in case it's some type of exotic metal that the lead doesn't stick to. It's all in the prep work and how clean you get it. Scratch out the pit holes with an xacto knife so the metal is shiny inside. I've had to brush on flux first in some cases where the metal was galvanized to get the lead solder to stick. Remember you heat the tank and let it melt the solder. Don't melt the solder with the torch. If you're not comfortable doing it yourself you maybe able to find a radiator build/repair shop that still does this kind of work for a minmal cost. I've used epoxy in the past with good results but the epoxy I used was made by a company called Hysol and I havn't been able to find it anymore, they may have gone out of buisness, but they had a product that wasn't affected by oil or gas. I found products like JB Weld tend to soften over the years when exposed to petroleum products.
Bill
03-20-2010, 01:54 AM
#34
Rennlist Member
the holes look like some one already welded and ground down that part of the tank.. some tine when i weld i get little holes like that . not so good in a tank thought.
good luck on the repair ,
nick
good luck on the repair ,
nick
03-20-2010, 09:06 AM
#35
Pro
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Raeford, North Carolina
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Found a used tank here for $250. I just purchased a used distributor from these guys listed for 450 and they took 400 for it. I have actually been to their warehouse up in northern NC and they have a pretty good operation going. With all that said, No Affiliation.
http://dcauto.gotdns.com/illustration/index/454925387
Good luck, glad you did find the problem though.
http://dcauto.gotdns.com/illustration/index/454925387
Good luck, glad you did find the problem though.
03-20-2010, 09:41 AM
#36
Racer
is it not a better idea to take out the corroded part of the tank and weld a new piece of metal in ?
I have bad experiences with welding corroded metal.... just my 2 cents
I have bad experiences with welding corroded metal.... just my 2 cents
03-20-2010, 03:57 PM
#37
Three Wheelin'
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Easy way I've found to accurately locate the problem is to poke paper towels into every crook and cranny of the suspected area, then run the engine for a few seconds/minutes (depending on the leak). You can then pull the paper towels away one by one and usually easily determine the exact location.
03-23-2010, 06:13 PM
#40
Drifting
Thread Starter
Well, I've cleaned up the tank and have found several holes.
I tried soldering to no avail.
I've spoken to some welding folks and it looks like a bit of a job given the extent of the pitting.
I've ordered a used part from dcAutomotive.
I've uploaded some pics for those interested in seeing the extent of the damage. These are all after I spent the better part of the weekend with a drill and wire-wheel to remove all of the crud, rust and paint.
I tried soldering to no avail.
I've spoken to some welding folks and it looks like a bit of a job given the extent of the pitting.
I've ordered a used part from dcAutomotive.
I've uploaded some pics for those interested in seeing the extent of the damage. These are all after I spent the better part of the weekend with a drill and wire-wheel to remove all of the crud, rust and paint.
03-24-2010, 10:42 AM
#41
Rennlist Member
oil tank
i would note waste my time repairing that tank. there could be other weakened area that you do not see that could do the same later. I think the problem you have with your tank is quite rare and its just not worth the saving to replace with a used tank. plus if you have it repaired you will always be thinking of the reapaired tank when you drive. some times you just have to open the wallet and do the do. this item is something that you do not comprimise on. weekend rides has some takes for good prices and guarentee them not to leak and be in good condition. heard good things about them too.
04-20-2010, 01:40 AM
#44
Drifting
Thread Starter
And, she's running great!
Sorry. I meant to follow up, but got distracted with the F1 from the weekend.
I replaced the oil tank with a good used one. Had it cleaned at a radiator cleaning shop. Chemical dip, then steam cleaned. All new rubber hoses. Left the braided hose through the top of the wheel well as I was not able to get the fittings loose, it was not showing any signs of leaking and I was getting a bit ansy to get the car back on the road. I'm sure I'll be thinking about that decision again sometime as the tank must come out again to replace it due to the line routing behind one of the tank mount points.
I plan on doing a full write-up of the procedure to remove and install the tank, but following are a few terse highlights.
I was a bit surprised to learn that after six months without the car I had actually forgotten how sweet the sound, and how enjoyable the ride.
I'm back on the road; and back smitten.
Cheers,
Dave
Sorry. I meant to follow up, but got distracted with the F1 from the weekend.
I replaced the oil tank with a good used one. Had it cleaned at a radiator cleaning shop. Chemical dip, then steam cleaned. All new rubber hoses. Left the braided hose through the top of the wheel well as I was not able to get the fittings loose, it was not showing any signs of leaking and I was getting a bit ansy to get the car back on the road. I'm sure I'll be thinking about that decision again sometime as the tank must come out again to replace it due to the line routing behind one of the tank mount points.
I plan on doing a full write-up of the procedure to remove and install the tank, but following are a few terse highlights.
Code:
tank removal
remove oil dip stick tube mounting bracket in engine compartment
cut wheel well line retainer zip tie
tape over all open lines and ports to avoid contamination
tank level sensor wire pulls through slot in bracket
t'stat rubber mount can be cut with a sawsall run up between
the front cooler lines
when painting tank, double tape openings
remove second layer of tape all around
allows all paint flakes to be cleaned up
then remove first layer of tape w/out fear of getting paint chips
into tank
tank installation
attach two short rubber hoses at side of tank to car side; tighten
then push tank into place and into these two lines
attach two short rubber hoses at bottom of tank to tank side; tighten
then attach to t'stat during tank installation
prevents debrie falling into t'stat
leave rags/paper towels in t'stat openings until last minute
leave t'stat mount off duing tank installation
release front oil cooler hard line bracket at passenger door
allows greater movement of t'stat housing during tank installation
I'm back on the road; and back smitten.
Cheers,
Dave
04-20-2010, 08:22 AM
#45
IHI KING!
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Congrats Dave. Sounds like you had to overcome quite a bit. I hope you can drive the car a lot. 
I began driving my C2 about 2 weeks ago. I still grin while I'm doing it. The feel is very addictive.
I began driving my C2 about 2 weeks ago. I still grin while I'm doing it. The feel is very addictive.