cleaned isv - 1100rpm elec system shuts down
#1
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cleaned isv - 1100rpm elec system shuts down
Hi All,
Been on pelican parts forum a bit but this is my first post here.
I had a rough idle issue so went and cleaned the isv based on detailed information here. After clening the isv i tested it with my booster pack and it worked just fine. Reinstalled it and reset the dme by disconnecting the battery for 20mins then idling for 20min then took it for a "sprited" drive.
My problem is the car now idles at 1100rpm (prev it idled at 840 when warm). The throttle reponse is terrible, i lift off the throttle but the revs drop very slowly(as if the idle is still active). On cold start up if i turn on the fast blower to clear the window the car dies. lastly after driving it when i turn off the ignition the whole electrical system shuts down as if the battery has been disconnected, after a few seconds it comes back.
Any help would be greatly appreciated!
Thanks
Been on pelican parts forum a bit but this is my first post here.
I had a rough idle issue so went and cleaned the isv based on detailed information here. After clening the isv i tested it with my booster pack and it worked just fine. Reinstalled it and reset the dme by disconnecting the battery for 20mins then idling for 20min then took it for a "sprited" drive.
My problem is the car now idles at 1100rpm (prev it idled at 840 when warm). The throttle reponse is terrible, i lift off the throttle but the revs drop very slowly(as if the idle is still active). On cold start up if i turn on the fast blower to clear the window the car dies. lastly after driving it when i turn off the ignition the whole electrical system shuts down as if the battery has been disconnected, after a few seconds it comes back.
Any help would be greatly appreciated!
Thanks
#2
Burning Brakes
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Is your battery on the way out? How many years does it have on it.
I'd eliminate that as an issue first and then work from there.
Do you have a charger you can charge the battery up with to see if things improve. Alternatively take the battery to a car shop and get them to run a test on it (usually free).
Good luck.
I'd eliminate that as an issue first and then work from there.
Do you have a charger you can charge the battery up with to see if things improve. Alternatively take the battery to a car shop and get them to run a test on it (usually free).
Good luck.
#4
Nordschleife Master
Maybe your throttle cable has been adjusted too much in the past to solve an idling problem which means it's not pressing on the idle microswitch when at rest? Check that the throttle cable mechanism in the engine bay is making contact with the microswitch.
#5
Hi Voodoo,
Imo you either have a vacuum leak in one of the hoses connected to the ISV or the ISV itself is stuck open (aggressive cleaners can cause the alloy to corrode which causes the valve to jam).
Rgds
Imo you either have a vacuum leak in one of the hoses connected to the ISV or the ISV itself is stuck open (aggressive cleaners can cause the alloy to corrode which causes the valve to jam).
Rgds
#6
Three Wheelin'
"After clening the isv i tested it with my booster pack and it worked just fine."
What does this mean?? Connecting the ISV to a direct 12 volt supply might not be the best thing in the world to do. The ISV is quite delicate and is controlled by relatively small voltage from the DME. Applying a full 12 volts to it may potentially compromise it's operation.
Regards
Dave
What does this mean?? Connecting the ISV to a direct 12 volt supply might not be the best thing in the world to do. The ISV is quite delicate and is controlled by relatively small voltage from the DME. Applying a full 12 volts to it may potentially compromise it's operation.
Regards
Dave
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Gents, thanks for your feedback.
I'm going to take the isv out again to ensure its not stuck open, it was extremely dirty when cleaning and i had to use alot of carb cleaner/wd40 and a lollipop stick to free it up. i'll also check the microswitch.
I spent a couple of hours over the weekend reading through the forums and running 12v through the terminals to test seemed to be the general consensus. I hope they're right!
Thanks again.
I'm going to take the isv out again to ensure its not stuck open, it was extremely dirty when cleaning and i had to use alot of carb cleaner/wd40 and a lollipop stick to free it up. i'll also check the microswitch.
I spent a couple of hours over the weekend reading through the forums and running 12v through the terminals to test seemed to be the general consensus. I hope they're right!
Thanks again.
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#8
Three Wheelin'
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Please keep us posted. I just did mine over the weekend with same carb cleaner / WD40 approach. Was wondering if I could test with 12v, but didn't try it for fear of damaging a low v circuit per above. Will be starting up tonight or tomorrow night after a nightmarish rebuild saga, previously posted here.
#10
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Took out the ISV, it was in the closed state(2mm gap). Tested it again using the 12v (see attached image, didn't notice before but voltage is written on it).
No power - 2mm gap in slide door
Power - Slide door fully open
onto micro switches...
No power - 2mm gap in slide door
Power - Slide door fully open
onto micro switches...
#12
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Also, if you're moving the slide door manually,be aware it moves the opposite to the way you think i.e the slide door moves towards the gap, it doesn't widen it
#13
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Solved! After reinstalling the ISV i noticed a loose connection directly below it. I plugged this in properly and started her up... Car is running sweet, rough idle gone, burbling at 840. Well worth the clean despite the added hassle
Thanks to all for your help!
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Thanks to all for your help!
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