Removing sound proofing???
#1
Removing sound proofing???
Is there a magic trick to removing this stuff -
I can't believe all the glue that was used -
What have you used when you removed the sound proofing
Ideas - suggestions greatly appreciated -
I can't believe all the glue that was used -
What have you used when you removed the sound proofing
Ideas - suggestions greatly appreciated -
#2
Gus--Unfortunately, no tricks that I found, just lots of elbow grease. I don't know about others but I used large pliers to pull out anything I could grab and pull. Then I scapped off what I could using a putty knife and hammer. Next, I used several large wire brushes attached to a long pole for better leverage. Finally, I went through several of those flexable roughing wheels you attach to a drill and can buy at auto parts store next to the bondo and body work stuff. I would not use "Gu Be Gone" or similar chemicals because it did not work for me and made a bigger mess than what it removed. Then once all removed--after mayber 20 hours over many weekends--I painted the inside with flat black. Good luck! Bob
#6
Hold on guys!!!! I replaced the seal round the bonnet a few months back and thought I was going to spend at least a week getting the old glue off. I tried absolutely everything.
My friend gave me a jar of a magic potion which when rubbed in with a toothbrush after about 15 minutes had dissolved the glue. It still required a bit of effort but no ELBOW Grease is required (or hardly any).
The magic potion was called 'Autosmart Tardis'.
No affiliation etc etc. Good luck.
My friend gave me a jar of a magic potion which when rubbed in with a toothbrush after about 15 minutes had dissolved the glue. It still required a bit of effort but no ELBOW Grease is required (or hardly any).
The magic potion was called 'Autosmart Tardis'.
No affiliation etc etc. Good luck.
Trending Topics
#10
Here are the steps I used:
-buy chems, chem gloves, respirator mask, putty knives, heat gun, etc
-remove carpet and most of the sound proofing
-realize that removing the glue is probably one of the worst jobs ever and hire your lawn guy to do this job over a weekend.
Btw, if you are putting carpet back, then there is really no reason to remove the old glue I don’t think. Just put some new 3m adhesive back over the old stuff. This worked for me a few years ago but now I want it all gone and will repaint the interior.
-buy chems, chem gloves, respirator mask, putty knives, heat gun, etc
-remove carpet and most of the sound proofing
-realize that removing the glue is probably one of the worst jobs ever and hire your lawn guy to do this job over a weekend.
Btw, if you are putting carpet back, then there is really no reason to remove the old glue I don’t think. Just put some new 3m adhesive back over the old stuff. This worked for me a few years ago but now I want it all gone and will repaint the interior.
#12
I removed my interior carpet and sound deadening last year, along with most of the glue.
The glue tends to be fairly brittle, but adheres well enough to not come off in large chunks. I tried a heat gun and putty knife without much success. I ended up using a small hammer to GENTLY crack the glue, and then knock it off with a stiff nylon bristle brush. This method knocked off large quantities quickly with minimal effort, but unfortunately getting what is left behind afterward is the tricky part.
I decided to try some solvents on the remainder with mixed results.
Goo gone / Goof off wouldn't touch the glue but would easily damage the paint. Acetone was worthless. The only solvent of any value was xylene, and it's pretty nasty stuff - and still didnt do an overwhelmingly good job. The particular danger in using solvents is that as they work their magic, the glue becomes malleable and sticky again, with half of it being removed and half being redeposited somewhere else within the car.
I eventually decided to "take a break" and focus my efforts elsewhere within the car, and a fair quantity of glue still sits there, waiting...
The glue tends to be fairly brittle, but adheres well enough to not come off in large chunks. I tried a heat gun and putty knife without much success. I ended up using a small hammer to GENTLY crack the glue, and then knock it off with a stiff nylon bristle brush. This method knocked off large quantities quickly with minimal effort, but unfortunately getting what is left behind afterward is the tricky part.
I decided to try some solvents on the remainder with mixed results.
Goo gone / Goof off wouldn't touch the glue but would easily damage the paint. Acetone was worthless. The only solvent of any value was xylene, and it's pretty nasty stuff - and still didnt do an overwhelmingly good job. The particular danger in using solvents is that as they work their magic, the glue becomes malleable and sticky again, with half of it being removed and half being redeposited somewhere else within the car.
I eventually decided to "take a break" and focus my efforts elsewhere within the car, and a fair quantity of glue still sits there, waiting...
#13
I agree they yellow snot Porsche uses it absolutely the hardest thing to get off. I did my rear cabin and it took for ever. I found a strong natural citrus decal remover used to remove vehicle wraps would actually cut the goo and not harm the paint ($40.00 a gallon). Still took a really long time. An my car smelled like oranges for a week.
I also did the foot wells and went with the Reinnline track mats. Very clean install.
I also did the foot wells and went with the Reinnline track mats. Very clean install.
#14
#15
I tried heat, cold, goo off, goof off, swearing, bleeding. The thing that really worked was a Wurth product - paint and gasket remover. Stuff works great, but you will see metal when done. Need a respirator and gloves.