rockpicker

What is the best tool/method for removing brakedust (old heavy deposited brakedust) from aluminum wheels? I have some Fikses that need a facelift and wonder if dremel makes an attachment that may fit into the tight spaces to work on these? Also, has anybody repolished and reassembled their 3 piece wheels?

Matt

cobalt

Fikse's suck because they are not clear coated. I use a drill with a small mandrel and buffing pad and go at them with blue magic to get them looking 90% They are my track wheels so I don't care so much but very hard to keep from oxidizing unless you keep the car garaged and away from water. I would also try polishing them as often as you can but there is not much that you can do other than having them clear coated after a thorough polish.

junkart

Take them to wheel refinishing shop and have them powdercoat clear. They can mask, disassemble, reseal, etc. and the powdercoat will last forever. Do not use automotive clearcoat (spray on enamel)... they don't stick well on polished surface. Powdercoat clear stands better on smooth surface and against UV rays and cleaning agent. It is however a little thicker coating.

cobalt

I agree although powder coating is rarely as clear. I found the only clear to use out of a can is made by Wurth. Jim uses some from of ceramic clear coat which supposedly holds up well when he does his speedline refinishing.

springer3

I use Minwax Clear Gloss Spar Polyurethane. It is made for boats which hardly ever sit in the shade. I see no need to wax the coating, as it beads water even years later. Brake dust washes off with car-wash soap and water. Normal road grit does not seem to bother it.

It does take a little bit of DIY skill to get an even glossy coating. The color is a little off, especially if you lay it on too thick. The slight green tint will panic any concours contestent. For a well-kept daily driver I use it without hesitation. The tint clears up with age, and even thick coatings have not cracked. YMMV.