Advice on replacing oil hoses
#1
Instructor
Thread Starter
Advice on replacing oil hoses
I'm about ready to adjust my valves and was wondering if anyone has any suggestions on what to replace while I have things removed (doesn't only have to be oil lines)?
I'm going to replace the short oil hoses in the right rear fenderwell but was wondering if there are any that I should do? I notice that oil hose that runs from the right rear fenderwell towards the engine is leaking quite badly. Can anyone tell me which one this is?
Thanks!
I'm going to replace the short oil hoses in the right rear fenderwell but was wondering if there are any that I should do? I notice that oil hose that runs from the right rear fenderwell towards the engine is leaking quite badly. Can anyone tell me which one this is?
Thanks!
#2
IHI KING!
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I would inspect everything while you have easy access and replace any hose that looks iffy. As our cars get older, these hoses are reaching the end of their usefulness.
This is the diagram of all of the oil hoses. If you need any of the part numbers, let me know what number on the diagram. Or if you have PET, its page 104-01
This is the diagram of all of the oil hoses. If you need any of the part numbers, let me know what number on the diagram. Or if you have PET, its page 104-01
#3
Rennlist Member
I found it was time to just go ahead and replace all the oil lines after they started weeping. Set aside a weekend and just do it. Good luck.
Items to change while doing a valve job, other than the gaskets? the spark plug wire hold downs will likely break on you.
Also a good opportunity to clean everything underneath.
Items to change while doing a valve job, other than the gaskets? the spark plug wire hold downs will likely break on you.
Also a good opportunity to clean everything underneath.
#5
My take on what to check,
When I had the engine out I needed to replace oil lines 26,30 and 46 in Rocket Bob's post. Don't forget to inspect the oil breather lines items 31,37 and 41, paying special attention where the lines are run in the wheelwell. Also check the sound insulation blanket as it is probably "impossible" to replace it with the engine installed. Check the drive belt for the steering servo pump and the associated pressure lines . I found one line needing replacement. Check the starter electrical wires for chafing. One of my wires had chafing caused by the starter itself. Check the starter condition including brushes. Also check the clutch slave cylinder and rubber pressure line for condition. Replacing sparkplugs and ignition HT leads is perhaps something you also want to consider. +1 on the HT lead clips breaking when removing the leads.
Have fun and good luck
When I had the engine out I needed to replace oil lines 26,30 and 46 in Rocket Bob's post. Don't forget to inspect the oil breather lines items 31,37 and 41, paying special attention where the lines are run in the wheelwell. Also check the sound insulation blanket as it is probably "impossible" to replace it with the engine installed. Check the drive belt for the steering servo pump and the associated pressure lines . I found one line needing replacement. Check the starter electrical wires for chafing. One of my wires had chafing caused by the starter itself. Check the starter condition including brushes. Also check the clutch slave cylinder and rubber pressure line for condition. Replacing sparkplugs and ignition HT leads is perhaps something you also want to consider. +1 on the HT lead clips breaking when removing the leads.
Have fun and good luck
#6
Race Director
My take on what to check,
When I had the engine out I needed to replace oil lines 26,30 and 46 in Rocket Bob's post. Don't forget to inspect the oil breather lines items 31,37 and 41, paying special attention where the lines are run in the wheelwell. Also check the sound insulation blanket as it is probably "impossible" to replace it with the engine installed. Check the drive belt for the steering servo pump and the associated pressure lines . I found one line needing replacement. Check the starter electrical wires for chafing. One of my wires had chafing caused by the starter itself. Check the starter condition including brushes. Also check the clutch slave cylinder and rubber pressure line for condition. Replacing sparkplugs and ignition HT leads is perhaps something you also want to consider. +1 on the HT lead clips breaking when removing the leads.
Have fun and good luck
When I had the engine out I needed to replace oil lines 26,30 and 46 in Rocket Bob's post. Don't forget to inspect the oil breather lines items 31,37 and 41, paying special attention where the lines are run in the wheelwell. Also check the sound insulation blanket as it is probably "impossible" to replace it with the engine installed. Check the drive belt for the steering servo pump and the associated pressure lines . I found one line needing replacement. Check the starter electrical wires for chafing. One of my wires had chafing caused by the starter itself. Check the starter condition including brushes. Also check the clutch slave cylinder and rubber pressure line for condition. Replacing sparkplugs and ignition HT leads is perhaps something you also want to consider. +1 on the HT lead clips breaking when removing the leads.
Have fun and good luck
#7
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front oil lines
I replaced my oil lines in the front fender with blue Aeroquip FC300-16 hose. It is rated to 300 degrees F. Carefully cut off the crimps from the old ones-do not nick the metal lines, and use two hose clamps on each end to secure the new ones.
It's a good idea to take out the oil cooler and clean it because the weeping oil lines cause oil to get on the cooler and the dirt sticks to it. I have seen them half blocked with dirt.
It's a good idea to take out the oil cooler and clean it because the weeping oil lines cause oil to get on the cooler and the dirt sticks to it. I have seen them half blocked with dirt.