Horrible noise when NOT steering
08-16-2009, 11:21 PM
#16
Nordschleife Master
"That sounds complicated."
Its not . Its straight forward if you understand it .
The return line to the reservoir is used as a dump overboard line .
The old return to reservoir in is used as a feed new fluid line .
The new fluid goes in where the old return line was .
Once you get it hooked up , once you turn on the motor
the old fluid comes out and gets dumped overboard ,
the new fluid gets pulled in and run down the line into the pump .
Then the new fluid goes forward to the rack and the back to be dumped overboard .
Its not . Its straight forward if you understand it .
The return line to the reservoir is used as a dump overboard line .
The old return to reservoir in is used as a feed new fluid line .
The new fluid goes in where the old return line was .
Once you get it hooked up , once you turn on the motor
the old fluid comes out and gets dumped overboard ,
the new fluid gets pulled in and run down the line into the pump .
Then the new fluid goes forward to the rack and the back to be dumped overboard .
08-16-2009, 11:25 PM
#17
Nordschleife Master
"Because of the wrong fluid?"
The engineers at porsche said that dexron was the thing to use ,
if regular power steering was good enough , they would have said that it was .
My mother once put motor oil in her auto transmission .
What fun that was , middle of winter in an unheated garage with frozen tools .
The engineers at porsche said that dexron was the thing to use ,
if regular power steering was good enough , they would have said that it was .
My mother once put motor oil in her auto transmission .
What fun that was , middle of winter in an unheated garage with frozen tools .
08-16-2009, 11:31 PM
#20
Nordschleife Master
Yes but you ran the steering so that the fluid went all around the system ,
from the front to the back and a few more times around .
Its everywhere in the whole system .
You need to flush it all out , imho .
The price for a gallon of cheap dexron III is not much
http://www.agrisupply.com/product.asp?pn=16320
from the front to the back and a few more times around .
Its everywhere in the whole system .
You need to flush it all out , imho .
The price for a gallon of cheap dexron III is not much
http://www.agrisupply.com/product.asp?pn=16320
08-16-2009, 11:38 PM
#21
Nordschleife Master
Only doing the flush will tell the tale .
You are going to bet a small amount of time
and a few dollars for fluid .
It fixes the problem ,
or it does not .
You need to get rid of the wrong fluid even if it does not fix the noise .
08-17-2009, 01:05 AM
#24
OK, upon further inspection, I put in about 12oz of PS fluid in the car. Will flush it all out, but my guess is that little PS fluid can't have caused the noise. I'll also pull out the airbox, PS pump, PS pulley, etc. to see what, if anything, could be causing the noise.
I'm still curious why the noise stops when I'm turning the wheel. What mechanically could stop knocking when steering?
I'm still curious why the noise stops when I'm turning the wheel. What mechanically could stop knocking when steering?
08-17-2009, 11:16 AM
#25
Putting a load on the pwr steering pump (turning the wheel) could be putting a load on a loose nut at the cam pulley and causing it to stop wobbling.
After flushing the fluid, I'd take a look at that nut you think that you may not have torqued.
By the way, you should NOT torque that nut using the cam shaft as the load. Bind up the pulley as counter torque. Some folks, myself included, have used the triangular muffler hanger as a "tool" putting the two fixed studs into the spokes of the pulley. Use a rag, or some such, to protect the pulley from the "sharp" threads of the studs.
After flushing the fluid, I'd take a look at that nut you think that you may not have torqued.
By the way, you should NOT torque that nut using the cam shaft as the load. Bind up the pulley as counter torque. Some folks, myself included, have used the triangular muffler hanger as a "tool" putting the two fixed studs into the spokes of the pulley. Use a rag, or some such, to protect the pulley from the "sharp" threads of the studs.
08-17-2009, 11:23 AM
#26
Indy, how long will it take to flush the fluid? This is on my list of fluids to change and I like your idea of flushing out with the old and in with the new rather than the mix/drain/mix/drain/... process that most describe.
I'm afraid that the pump may draw out the new fluid too quickly and flush the entire old and new out to the bucket before I can shut off the car!
Any idea how long it will take to cycle out the old and in the new? Or, the pump gpm rate?
I'm afraid that the pump may draw out the new fluid too quickly and flush the entire old and new out to the bucket before I can shut off the car!
Any idea how long it will take to cycle out the old and in the new? Or, the pump gpm rate?
08-17-2009, 11:29 AM
#27
I've checked the Shop Manuals and they indicate "ATF - Dexron II D" fluid. I'm not sure if this has been superseded, but I had done a search some time ago and saved the Dexron III Automatic Transmission Fluid (ATF) I referenced above in my notes of things to buy. Probably came from smarter folks on this board.
08-17-2009, 12:07 PM
#28
The more I think about it, I think that I only torqued the bolt down until the cam turned a bit. Then I realized that I hadn't secured the PS pump above. I got up, attached the PS pump with the allen nuts, hex nut, etc. and I never went back and torqued the pulley bolt. I took it off using a long, thick flathead screwdriver bracing the pulley and planned to do this to torque it back. I will take a look at using the muffler hanger. I saw that in your previous DIY thread, but didn't know what you meant. This makes sense now.
I shouldn't have to drain my oil again, should I? I've already change it twice this summer w/ only 1000 miles driven.
Good news is that I think I have less oil leaks with all of the seals, gaskets and o-rings I replaced. And I found the crankcase breather hose is cracked at the bottom and I'm sure it's causing a leak too. And, it looks as if the hose from the PS reservoir to the pump is not sealing well. Will replace both of these and hope my leaks are even fewer afterward.
I shouldn't have to drain my oil again, should I? I've already change it twice this summer w/ only 1000 miles driven.
Good news is that I think I have less oil leaks with all of the seals, gaskets and o-rings I replaced. And I found the crankcase breather hose is cracked at the bottom and I'm sure it's causing a leak too. And, it looks as if the hose from the PS reservoir to the pump is not sealing well. Will replace both of these and hope my leaks are even fewer afterward.
08-17-2009, 12:28 PM
#29
Nordschleife Master
Indy, how long will it take to flush the fluid? This is on my list of fluids to change and I like your idea of flushing out with the old and in with the new rather than the mix/drain/mix/drain/... process that most describe.
I'm afraid that the pump may draw out the new fluid too quickly and flush the entire old and new out to the bucket before I can shut off the car!
Any idea how long it will take to cycle out the old and in the new? Or, the pump gpm rate?
I'm afraid that the pump may draw out the new fluid too quickly and flush the entire old and new out to the bucket before I can shut off the car!
Any idea how long it will take to cycle out the old and in the new? Or, the pump gpm rate?
They need to be turning the wheel .
If you do run it till its out of fluid , no big deal .
You can then redo the hoses back into place and refill the system .
08-17-2009, 12:28 PM
#30
Three Wheelin'
I would be willing to bet the cam pulley bolt is loose. Shouldn't be all that hard to get at, just pull that cover off. And I echo indy's suggestion, get that fluid out of there, and see if there is any damage. Hopefully you got lucky on that point.