shift sleeves - cure for fallen shifter assembly
08-13-2009, 03:56 PM
#1
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
shift sleeves - cure for fallen shifter assembly
I recently experienced the situation where my shift **** came loose and the whole assembly sank down in the tunnel and could easily be lifted up. I could still shift but something below was wrong. Via search I was able to locate the problem, fix it and hopefully add a little extra text and some images. I originally resurrected an old thread to do this, but I've decided to create and title a new thread with a better name. Hopefully this will organize the information better and lead to an easier search. I've tried to note other contributions, as that's what really helped solve the problem...
To start off with:
Euromagination posted:
After identifying the problem he then comments:
Euromagination then works out the following procedure:
At this point I would like to add the following information and a link to pictures with more detail.
Hawk 911 adds
crg53 adds:
Thanks for your encouraging words Hawk and Steen.
Again due to RL resources, I was able to:
* put my car up on jack stands. (correct locations and method - Scary!)
* remove the center tunnel and expose the transmission tunnel
* understand the shifter assembly and locate the problem
* confirm that in fact I do have broken shifter sleeves (good since I ordered them already based on the detailed descriptions of others)
* move the assembly around to confirm that I could actually replace and fix the problem (remove lock rings and replace broken shift sleeves)
Wow, what a night. Part scary, part "This is what it's all about! Buy new TOOLS and do the work yourself"
So I can fix this (keep in mind I'm a total Newbie here)! I've never had the feeling before... "oh the shift linkage just fell out, I can fix it". The part is supposed to come in today... hopefully I'm not celebrating to sooooon?
A couple notes:
* regarding removing the center tunnel. Simple nut removal, only takes a turn or two to remove each nut
* Had to also remove some nuts/bolts from adjoining panels as they overlap or are connected via hooks and indentations
* replacing the shift sleeves can be done from below only. Now I have to re-install most of the center console inside the car. I did find 8 cents and will clean everything up as a bonus.
For lots of pictures of what I'm talking about:
http://picasaweb.google.com/udoreisi...gShiftSleeves#
A surprising side note: After spending hours in the garage and after buying tons of new tools and parts (also Wevo m.m.) the wife was happy. Why? Not because I was out of her hair, but b/c I can now tackle more 64 jobs and not have to re-arrange everything with the family so they can drive 30 miles one-way to drop off the car for days. It will still happen, but little-by-little not as often!
Thanks everyone,
Udo
moderators: I hope the regrouping of the above information is ok and correct. Otherwise feel free to remove. Best, Udo
To start off with:
Euromagination posted:
If you sit in my car and grab hold of the shift ****, you can pull the whole thing up (yes, UP!) and hear metal clanking down there as if a bolt came out down there and something that was once connected, is now disconnected. The shifter doesn't just move side to side through the gears as it should. It feels as though if the leather cover and rubber boot weren't covering the shift ****, etc, I would be able to pull it right up out of the car. Something in the shift linkage in there is loose, and now my car wont go into 5th gear because of it.
I was just out in the car trying to see what is wrong... I took all of the center console off except for the ****, which is stuck to the shifter. I need that whole assembly out of my way before I can explore any farther.
I was just out in the car trying to see what is wrong... I took all of the center console off except for the ****, which is stuck to the shifter. I need that whole assembly out of my way before I can explore any farther.
WORK:
Replace (2) shift sleeves (P/N 96442422401)--#26 in the pg. 1 pic. They are no longer oval shaped, but round. They are rubbery-plastic. I'm guessing that over time, they harden and crack as rubber does, then become brittle and fall apart--which leaves guide tube #27 to work itself loose over time and create the problem.
COST:
$10. (plus my time, which is priceless) Sleeves are ~$4 each, you must buy two; one for the forward end of the guide tube, and one for the rear end of it.
PROCEDURE:
--Take the center console and, ultimately, the gear shift lever boots and covers off to reveal the working metal joints inside. Takes about 30 minutes. (Procedure on p-car DIY.)
--Take out old shift sleeves, or in my case, push them until they break out of the hole completely. The pieces will fall into the tunnel below where you will be to retrieve them anyway.
--Slide guide tube #27 back so you can remove Lock Ring #28 from the front of the guide tube--do the same for the rear Lock Ring. Once again, it's okay if they fall in "the tunnel".
--Once you have the lock rings removed, put new shift sleeves (#26) in their respective holes and make sure they fit well. There is a groove in the middle of the shift sleeve to see that it grips the thin metal panel well. Careful to not push them through the hole or you'll have crawl under the car to retrieve things from the tunnel more often.
--Slowly and easily wiggle the guide tube back into the new shift sleeves. This will be a tight fit. Just try to center it from end-to-end as good as possible.
--CRAWL UNDER THE CAR (after lifting it properly. safety first, of course.)
--Take the tunnel cover off from the bottom of the car. (Procedure on P-car DIY)
--Retrieve any broken or loose parts that may have fallen in there.
--Attach Lock Rings (#28) to each end of the guide tube (#27) (So the pins are on the outside of the rubber shift sleeves, of course.)
--Inspect all other joint while you're under there. Maybe take the time to install a short shift kit?
--Put tunnel cover back on and put the car back on the ground properly. Put everything back as it was before you disassembled it.
--Done.
Replace (2) shift sleeves (P/N 96442422401)--#26 in the pg. 1 pic. They are no longer oval shaped, but round. They are rubbery-plastic. I'm guessing that over time, they harden and crack as rubber does, then become brittle and fall apart--which leaves guide tube #27 to work itself loose over time and create the problem.
COST:
$10. (plus my time, which is priceless) Sleeves are ~$4 each, you must buy two; one for the forward end of the guide tube, and one for the rear end of it.
PROCEDURE:
--Take the center console and, ultimately, the gear shift lever boots and covers off to reveal the working metal joints inside. Takes about 30 minutes. (Procedure on p-car DIY.)
--Take out old shift sleeves, or in my case, push them until they break out of the hole completely. The pieces will fall into the tunnel below where you will be to retrieve them anyway.
--Slide guide tube #27 back so you can remove Lock Ring #28 from the front of the guide tube--do the same for the rear Lock Ring. Once again, it's okay if they fall in "the tunnel".
--Once you have the lock rings removed, put new shift sleeves (#26) in their respective holes and make sure they fit well. There is a groove in the middle of the shift sleeve to see that it grips the thin metal panel well. Careful to not push them through the hole or you'll have crawl under the car to retrieve things from the tunnel more often.
--Slowly and easily wiggle the guide tube back into the new shift sleeves. This will be a tight fit. Just try to center it from end-to-end as good as possible.
--CRAWL UNDER THE CAR (after lifting it properly. safety first, of course.)
--Take the tunnel cover off from the bottom of the car. (Procedure on P-car DIY)
--Retrieve any broken or loose parts that may have fallen in there.
--Attach Lock Rings (#28) to each end of the guide tube (#27) (So the pins are on the outside of the rubber shift sleeves, of course.)
--Inspect all other joint while you're under there. Maybe take the time to install a short shift kit?
--Put tunnel cover back on and put the car back on the ground properly. Put everything back as it was before you disassembled it.
--Done.
So I finally fixed this today after waiting a while for parts...
WORK:
Replace (2) shift sleeves (P/N 96442422401)--#26 in the pg. 1 pic. They are no longer oval shaped, but round. They are rubbery-plastic. I'm guessing that over time, they harden and crack as rubber does, then become brittle and fall apart--which leaves guide tube #27 to work itself loose over time and create the problem.
COST:
$10. (plus my time, which is priceless) Sleeves are ~$4 each, you must buy two; one for the forward end of the guide tube, and one for the rear end of it.
PROCEDURE:
--Take the center console and, ultimately, the gear shift lever boots and covers off to reveal the working metal joints inside. Takes about 30 minutes. (Procedure on p-car DIY.)
--Take out old shift sleeves, or in my case, push them until they break out of the hole completely. The pieces will fall into the tunnel below where you will be to retrieve them anyway.
--Slide guide tube #27 back so you can remove Lock Ring #28 from the front of the guide tube--do the same for the rear Lock Ring. Once again, it's okay if they fall in "the tunnel".
--Once you have the lock rings removed, put new shift sleeves (#26) in their respective holes and make sure they fit well. There is a groove in the middle of the shift sleeve to see that it grips the thin metal panel well. Careful to not push them through the hole or you'll have crawl under the car to retrieve things from the tunnel more often.
--Slowly and easily wiggle the guide tube back into the new shift sleeves. This will be a tight fit. Just try to center it from end-to-end as good as possible.
--CRAWL UNDER THE CAR (after lifting it properly. safety first, of course.)
--Take the tunnel cover off from the bottom of the car. (Procedure on P-car DIY)
--Retrieve any broken or loose parts that may have fallen in there.
--Attach Lock Rings (#28) to each end of the guide tube (#27) (So the pins are on the outside of the rubber shift sleeves, of course.)
--Inspect all other joint while you're under there. Maybe take the time to install a short shift kit?
--Put tunnel cover back on and put the car back on the ground properly. Put everything back as it was before you disassembled it.
--Done.
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Whole thing took me about 1.5 hours. Smooth shifting once again! Actually has a newer feel with those new, more cushy sleeves in.
-Harry
WORK:
Replace (2) shift sleeves (P/N 96442422401)--#26 in the pg. 1 pic. They are no longer oval shaped, but round. They are rubbery-plastic. I'm guessing that over time, they harden and crack as rubber does, then become brittle and fall apart--which leaves guide tube #27 to work itself loose over time and create the problem.
COST:
$10. (plus my time, which is priceless) Sleeves are ~$4 each, you must buy two; one for the forward end of the guide tube, and one for the rear end of it.
PROCEDURE:
--Take the center console and, ultimately, the gear shift lever boots and covers off to reveal the working metal joints inside. Takes about 30 minutes. (Procedure on p-car DIY.)
--Take out old shift sleeves, or in my case, push them until they break out of the hole completely. The pieces will fall into the tunnel below where you will be to retrieve them anyway.
--Slide guide tube #27 back so you can remove Lock Ring #28 from the front of the guide tube--do the same for the rear Lock Ring. Once again, it's okay if they fall in "the tunnel".
--Once you have the lock rings removed, put new shift sleeves (#26) in their respective holes and make sure they fit well. There is a groove in the middle of the shift sleeve to see that it grips the thin metal panel well. Careful to not push them through the hole or you'll have crawl under the car to retrieve things from the tunnel more often.
--Slowly and easily wiggle the guide tube back into the new shift sleeves. This will be a tight fit. Just try to center it from end-to-end as good as possible.
--CRAWL UNDER THE CAR (after lifting it properly. safety first, of course.)
--Take the tunnel cover off from the bottom of the car. (Procedure on P-car DIY)
--Retrieve any broken or loose parts that may have fallen in there.
--Attach Lock Rings (#28) to each end of the guide tube (#27) (So the pins are on the outside of the rubber shift sleeves, of course.)
--Inspect all other joint while you're under there. Maybe take the time to install a short shift kit?
--Put tunnel cover back on and put the car back on the ground properly. Put everything back as it was before you disassembled it.
--Done.
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Whole thing took me about 1.5 hours. Smooth shifting once again! Actually has a newer feel with those new, more cushy sleeves in.
-Harry
Ok, at this point I've searched some more and I've also sat with the diagram a little longer so I've going to move forward with my best guess? I think my problem is shift sleeves (P/N 96442422401)--#26 in the shift linkage picture above. I stopped short of removing the shift boot #20 or removing the center tunnel below the car.
- I've going to remove the center tunnel tonight (after I buy a floor jack and jack stands... new tools!) and get a better look.
- Removing the tunnel looks easy... hopefully just regular bolts? Not something fancy?
- FYI, if this happens to you, this might not be an overnight part order from a RL sponsor or Pelican? Via my local shop, I was told this is an OEM Porsche Part. Meaning, the vendor orders it from Prosche and waits for it to arrive. Pelian says this adds a couple days before receives/ships the part.
- My P. Deals says Atlanta has it in stock... they are sending it next day...
- IF, my problem is the shift sleeve and guide tube, is the car still drivable or will this put too much stress on the assembly? Just easy driving, slow shifting.
Thanks,
Udo
- I've going to remove the center tunnel tonight (after I buy a floor jack and jack stands... new tools!) and get a better look.
- Removing the tunnel looks easy... hopefully just regular bolts? Not something fancy?
- FYI, if this happens to you, this might not be an overnight part order from a RL sponsor or Pelican? Via my local shop, I was told this is an OEM Porsche Part. Meaning, the vendor orders it from Prosche and waits for it to arrive. Pelian says this adds a couple days before receives/ships the part.
- My P. Deals says Atlanta has it in stock... they are sending it next day...
- IF, my problem is the shift sleeve and guide tube, is the car still drivable or will this put too much stress on the assembly? Just easy driving, slow shifting.
Thanks,
Udo
Udo- that center tunnel is just a few bolts- nothing fancy. you'll see the shifter assembly very easily. Good time to do the short shifter swap
Jetta, you need to be under the car to attach the lockrings; if you take care you can do the whole job from under the car. Make sure you get the right guide tube bushings (#26) for your car, in your case they are round not like the ones in the picture. If you want to install the RS short shift kit, you WILL have to make the holes for the guide tube bushings OVAL, like the ones in the picture. This is the link to my RS short shift install. http://forums.rennlist.com/rennforum...ighlight=crg53
Again due to RL resources, I was able to:
* put my car up on jack stands. (correct locations and method - Scary!)
* remove the center tunnel and expose the transmission tunnel
* understand the shifter assembly and locate the problem
* confirm that in fact I do have broken shifter sleeves (good since I ordered them already based on the detailed descriptions of others)
* move the assembly around to confirm that I could actually replace and fix the problem (remove lock rings and replace broken shift sleeves)
Wow, what a night. Part scary, part "This is what it's all about! Buy new TOOLS and do the work yourself"
So I can fix this (keep in mind I'm a total Newbie here)! I've never had the feeling before... "oh the shift linkage just fell out, I can fix it". The part is supposed to come in today... hopefully I'm not celebrating to sooooon?
A couple notes:
* regarding removing the center tunnel. Simple nut removal, only takes a turn or two to remove each nut
* Had to also remove some nuts/bolts from adjoining panels as they overlap or are connected via hooks and indentations
* replacing the shift sleeves can be done from below only. Now I have to re-install most of the center console inside the car. I did find 8 cents and will clean everything up as a bonus.
For lots of pictures of what I'm talking about:
http://picasaweb.google.com/udoreisi...gShiftSleeves#
A surprising side note: After spending hours in the garage and after buying tons of new tools and parts (also Wevo m.m.) the wife was happy. Why? Not because I was out of her hair, but b/c I can now tackle more 64 jobs and not have to re-arrange everything with the family so they can drive 30 miles one-way to drop off the car for days. It will still happen, but little-by-little not as often!
Thanks everyone,
Udo
moderators: I hope the regrouping of the above information is ok and correct. Otherwise feel free to remove. Best, Udo
12-24-2012, 08:07 PM
#3
Hey Jamie not a big deal after you complete the work but trying until then.
Take the pet print and highlight the parts you changed and put a date and milage and you will have a list of what parts were changed and the date and a picture to show other ppl in case you want to sell your car. You show them and say I changed these parts.. I have done it with the oil lines which is really involved .. But a good history ..
Take the pet print and highlight the parts you changed and put a date and milage and you will have a list of what parts were changed and the date and a picture to show other ppl in case you want to sell your car. You show them and say I changed these parts.. I have done it with the oil lines which is really involved .. But a good history ..
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lbpa18 (09-24-2020)
09-04-2013, 01:08 AM
#5
1st Gear
Join Date: Sep 2013
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part number 964 424 224 01
hi. can u guys help me out? i ordered this part number 964 424 224 01 from pelicanparts but they sent me just a round rubber seal. i complained and they sent me another one. to make the long story short, i received 3 same parts that i dont need. pls help me where i can purchase this part.
09-04-2013, 08:26 AM
#7
Rennlist Member
The round ones worked for me when I did this fix last weekend. You may also want to buy a pair of the white bushings for the end caps of #15 and #16 (PN 928-116-145-03). Mine were almost completely worn away to nothing.
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09-04-2013, 11:35 AM
#8
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
****,
Nine was round too (1990 C2)
Nine was round too (1990 C2)
10-18-2020, 12:06 AM
#11
This is a very old thread yet pertinent to this day. Now its my turn to correct these deteriorated parts in my C2. The above really only covers half the repair. The cups that go on the ***** at either end of the shift rod (#15 on the diagram above) can be challenging without experience or reading an additional thread here: "Replacing the Shifter Guide Tube Ball Cup Bushings" (I dont know how to link it). Armed with both, the job is not difficult.
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911Jetta (10-18-2020)
