-nick

Perl & Scott, the Porsche prices on the tin are silly expensive. Cheaper to just patch it up. I mentioned how desirable an aftermarket replacement would be to Rennline and they sadly responded that they don't have the capability. I would love to replace all mine with new too.

Jerry- you're going to love the rennline carrier & wevo combination!

dfinnegan

Anyone know what's involved in joining stainless? I have access to some suitable stainless sheeting, but would know how to join it after cutting and bending.

springer3

I have some experience. What is the grade of stainless? For 200 and 300 series, TIG with argon blanket gas works great. Stainless is easy to spot-weld. Silver solder works fine with the correct flux.

springer3

In a word, cost. The body and frame are steel as well. Patching the rust holes and applying preservative paint treatments is the way to go on this problem. I cannot imagine anyone can fabricate stainless tin for less than the cost of the factory parts which last for the better part of two decades.

elbeee964

I think they gave the engine tin design to one of the same engineers ("Helmut!") long ago involved with the original 911 body ('64 - '73).
In '88, he was a year away from retirement, so they thought,

Eric Kessel

You could always get rearended and let the insurance company buy you a new one......

Not that I recommend it......

FlatSix911

Correct

The engine tin is designed for proper cooling - ON
The under-tray is designed for sound abatement - OFF

junkart

Thank you for the replies guys! Based on what i've read, i'm leaving it on. I'm thinking the heat from the exhaust muffler/bypass wouldn't be good for the belts. May be it won't melt them right away, but it might shorten their life.

The condition of the tin is not that bad on mine... but i notice what had happened to steve's (boxey911) is pretty common. Mine was also rusty but fortunately sandblasting cleaned it up pretty well then i reshot it with hi-temp paint. Hope it'll hold up. How much is that sucker anyway?

Again, thank you for the input, gents!

scott 964

i need new tin i cant even measure up from the rusty remains, so if any one takes theirs off will you do me a sketch so i can get tin basher Tim down the road to knock me up some bling stainless steel replacements

perlfather

Scott,
Is there any economy in volume? Do you think he could fabricate a few sets? I think there would be several people (like me) that would be interested in purchasing some stainless steel replacements.

junkart

the thing is, the OE tin was made from punched steel sheet using die so there are some corners with radius' and compound curves. I'm not sure if this piece can be fabricated with press brake or similar type of sheet metal bending equipment. It would have to be hand formed. And if that's the case, i don't see it as being economical.

my $0.02

Testimonial on Rennline engine carrier gusset + Wevo (black) mounts +Chris Walrod front lower 'A' arm poly-bushings:

First, I'd like to say the all items were made superbly These parts shows quality! I also installed these parts myself with LOTS of help from the 'Search' function on top right of your screen If I can do it, you can too

(a) The 'A' arm bushings (Chris Walrod's). sorry for the off topic... thought i just share anyway
Every piece was turned/lathed after coming out of the mould; extra process to get the dimensions tolerance tight. I appreciate that a lot! I did a couple of installation steps differently from the provided instructions to accommodate my limited tools and mechanical skill let me know if you wanna know. Driving experience: right of the bat, you'll feel the stiffness of the poly. It is not hard enough to shake the car but i definitely feel it on the steering wheel. As for performance, I haven't taken the car to the track yet but i know it will improve significantly over the OE rubber bushings just by driving thru PCH/Malibu. Suppose to go this weekend to Cali Speedway Roval setup!

(b) Rennline Engine Carrier Gusset
Made well and pretty precise! When i took mine off, i bent both ends like most do. Kinda freaked out a little at the beginning since i did not know how they were positioned before. Then i used the gusset together with the WEVO mounts as a template and all worked out. I installed the Wevo mounts without the M12 bolts and use the holes to realign the two ends.

(c) WEVO Mounts
When you're unbolting the 2 engine mount nuts (19mm hex), make sure you soak them with penetrating lubricant. I did as suggested by the pros here in this wonderful forum and it helped a lot! I still bent the ends a little but i've seen worst pictures. Mine wasn't that bad because of the lube which i started spraying several times a day before i started the job. The performance, I do feel more of the engine vibration. Just really little with the black bushing. What i actually notice the most was the engine sound. Seemed louder from inside compartment. Not sure why. These mounts fixes my slight shifting problem and mainly, engine hopping at some point of spirited shifting. These mounts rocks!! I however, can not see myself putting the blue bushing and drive the car daily. As it is now, to me, it is quite maximal. Any stiffer bushing will not make this car street drivable.

this is my $0.02. I hope it helps anyone thinking of doing the same upgrades.

scott 964

I have been quted £1000 for all the rusty tin replacements, mind you every job is a £1000, a tin basher works for <£10/hour...if i gave him a £500 for a set they would be nice....if i gave him a grand i would probably not be able to bring my self to fit them...

boxsey911

The price for Porsche original is £339.73 + tax (so about $500 + tax). This particular tin is one where an aftermarket one is available - I got one of these from FVD in Germany. It was on offer at the time and came to about half the price of an original. However.....it is not as good quality. The heat exchanger tube is only tack welded (so I filled the gaps with exhaust compound) and a couple of welded nuts are missing (there are just holes there so you have to use a nut and bolt which is fiddly).