user 783003

Jevvy, thanks for the picture, but I'm not sure what seals, crush washers and o-rings are there.

Also, regarding the good clean and the hot drive before you look for leaks, maybe I can get some advice here too. To really see where the leaks are coming from on the driver's side, I think I'll need the cat off and the lower valve cover foam/foil thing off. With them on, the oil is accumulating at the center, bottom bolt hole in the valve cover foil/foam piece. How do you get that off in time (while it's 5000 degrees Kelvin) to see where the leaks are coming from? Can I run it w/o the Cat and O2 sensor and foil/foam thingy (someone please tell me what this is called) so it's easier to see the leaks when I put it on ramps?

jevvy964

Matt

I have marked up the image so you can see where the seals etc are:


They are all worth changing while you are in there and removing one side of the intake makes doing the Power steering stuff a little easier too.

As for the other leak yes you can remove all the boards and heat shields etc but I would leave the cat if you are going to run it for a bit however I'd fix the top leaks first then have a look as lots of oil can come from the topside and make you think its leaking at the sides/bottom.

HTH

user 783003

Excellent, Thanks HTH!

Now I have the below parts list. Regarding the oil pressure sender, do I need the single or dual? 80 or 150 PSI?

Part Number Description Price Qty
999-113-463-40-M204 Seal for Power Steering Drive $7.25 1
999-707-293-40-M17 O-Ring for Power Steering Drive $1.25 1
964-602-559-00-M100 Spark Plug Wire Clip $0.75 12
930-107-791-02-M17 Crankcase Top Breather Cover Gasket $2.00 1
900-123-007-30-M131 14 x 18mm Sealing Ring $0.25 10
999-707-314-40-M17 Engine Thermostat O-Ring $1.75 1
900-123-140-30-M17 Gasket for Oil Temperature Sending Unit $0.25 1
900-123-008-30-OEM Sealing Ring A14 x 20 $2.25 1

user 783003

OK, it's worse. The car's been in the garage a couple of days. I took it to get gas and back this evening. Parked it warm and the oil level was way low. I added about 3/4 quart to get level to center line while idle on level ground. Went back outside 30 minutes later to find this ... the silver circle is a quarter for reference. This is taken after the car was moved, looking from back to front.

I have all kinds of parts ordered to work on possible passenger side leaks. The big one is getting bigger and is on the driver's side. Start naming seals, o-rings, gaskets, etc. from that side that I can start ordering.

frankvan

FWIW, I replaced the breather cover gasket in jevvy964's diagram (red circle) yesterday. Top of engine was dry so I figured that wasn't it in my case but since I had the gasket... The others in the picture were replaced a couple of years ago and that area was also dry. The one thing I haven't looked at yet is the power steering seal but the bulk of my oil leak is on the left side of the engine - quite a trip from the right side where the PS pump is!

Went out to garage this morning and of course I have a garage floor picture similar to yours Matt. I'm beginning to think mine is going to be expensive - cylinder to case seal? Through bolts? oil return tubes?

user 783003

So I have seals and gaskets on the way. Should be here on Monday. To prep, I drained the oil, pulled the air box, AFM and right hand intake manifold. I also pulled the heater blower and tube so I could pull the left manifold but stopped. I need to find a thread that walks me through getting that and the Throttle Body out. dfinnegan has a great thread with lots of pics, but he didn't take out the TB. While I have it out, I guess I should clean it. Sounds like that can help performance.

While in there, I did notice that there is a bunch of oil on and near the crankcase breather and oil pressure sender. I'll change these seals next week. Also, there is a bunch of oil near the distributors, looks like it's coming from the little plastic piece with 2 nuts on it (pic below). Last thing tonight, I found the little tube shown below near the crankcase breather area under the left hand intake manifold. Is this a vacuum tube? Could the car be running without it or was it just abandoned in the car when the replacement was installed?

Thanks,

user 783003

Is the thing in my pic 2 above the chain tensioner?

boxsey911

This might help you with that one:

https://rennlist.com/forums/964-foru...ighlight=fixed

user 783003

Thanks Steve. Exactly what I was looking for. Surprised I missed that thread back in April. I'll have those little o-rings on order by end of day.

Anything else I should change while I'm in these areas? I'll have the cat, secondary, tins and shields, intake manifolds and throttle body off all at the same time. I just did my valves and gaskets in May, but I'll probably check them again as I have a tick since the adjust. It was my first time...

Also, is brake cleaner safe to use on all these areas or should I use carb cleaner?

jevvy964

Taking the TB out is pretty easy but you have to work on a couple of blind bolts behind the intake to get it all out - just take your time and un-do stuff methodically and take lots of pics as you do.

As for the vacuum tube you can find another one like it on the intake, disconnect and suck/blow into the thin pipe - if you can blow or suck without any resistance(ie the pressure wont build) then that "spare" one is missing from somewhere - if you can build pressure then it looks like it truly is a spare.

Dont forget to replace the actual pressure sender if it looks damp - they tent to fail and start leaking themselves as well as where they are attached.

Good luck fella

boxsey911

Brake cleaner has worked well for me especially when cleaning out the intakes. It looks like you've got all of the top side seals covered in this thread. Being methodical about tightening down all the hose clamps on the top side when you put it all back together will be key to stopping any unwanted oil and vacuum leaks.

user 783003

I've got the car all back together. In the process of changing everything that I listed above, I found that the hose into the crankcase breather is old, brittle and cracked and the hose leading from the power steering reservoir to the PS pump isn't sealing right. I have those on order.

Here is a shot from before all of the work. Quarter for reference. This was taken after a spirited drive and car sat for 30 minutes.



Here is a shot after. Both shots were taken from directly behind the car (with the car removed from the shot). I'm very happy that the far left most large leak is not so large any more. I'm hopeful that (as this pic was taken only a day after the car was buttoned up) the majority of my new right hand drips are spilled ATF (and power steering fluid - don't ask) from my power steering flush and install and will dry up. Also that the new hoses may get a couple of these dry. This was taken after a spirited drive and car sat for 2 hours.

jevvy964

Result - less drips can only be a good sign.